Recent content by boomdriver

OK, I thoght about grounds but didn't think it was the cause since the symptoms are still there and consistent key ON eng OFF. The delay in the start of symptoms makes me THINK it's related to a module or ppackage of some kind... Today I noticed the fog lites if turned on will flash when the...

suddenly my dash lites started to flicker, along with all the 'display lites' on the a/c control, stereo, and any other little letter or indicator lites. The front day time marker lites are OUT, The front turn signals do not work but they both flicker fast. When I use the TS lever BOTH of the...

Its happened to me in the past and turned out to be fuel rail "O" rings leaking from age & alcohol contaminated gasoline...The few drops create a strong smell that gets blown directly up the vent screens below the windshield. From there the smell gets pulled into the cabin vent system.... This...

Heres a list of things that you can check... 1. is the fuel pump running 2 seconds when the key is turned to ON ? 2. the fuel pressure IS around 40+ psi when the rails charge ? 3. the dist is wired correctly on the cap ? The VATS is still active and...

Thanks DonB for the detailed write up. figured dropping the column would be the easy way to get at the thing. There is a rebuild kit for the little gear actuator and its rod, $9 at O'Really auto parts. Going to pick that up with the new ign switch $20 and plan on fun fun fun for the...

Has anyone had to take the ignition switch out ? (87 c-4 coupe, auto, tilt, telescopic column) The FSM is a little vague on the procedure and was hoping for some tips and guidance on the process. I'm having an intermittent problem with the starter....turn the key and nothing happens. Then...

This is exactly why they sell lottery tickets....... whats the future of the ZR-1 ? Is this what GM will use as a benchmark for the NEXT ZR series? The much talked about new rustang just got sent back to its place in the rear view......where its been for 50 years. This Z-0 pretty well...

this is classic Opti symptoms... moisture in the opti from condensation, storage, extreme temp swings. Early optis were not vented as later yrs are. Many folks opt for the newer vented Opti to solve this problem.

if you want the exact hose go to a junk yard or search vette salvagers in the area or fleabay. The rest of us just make a hose out of the things the auto parts store offers in generic vac hose and fittings. They WILL have your fittings...just get some hose for between.

Dawn, the shops, even a GOOD one will charge $1000 or more to do almost ANY underhood a/c repair because of the licensing, tech certification and equip needed to do the job. YOU can do it for $150 plus the cost of whatever replacement part (compressor?) you need...

They came either way. If you have the sport suspension it was likely 9.5 all 4 corners...the base model was 8.5 up front. Getting the wrong size replacement wheel happens all the time since these children at the wheel stores/shops do not bother to look..they just SELL whatever they have sitting...

the fuel bleeds off during the night. In the morning the pump has to refill the rails. The engine has to crank several times for the injectors to cycle and push out the air. IMO

This is most likely a VATS problem and the key is rarely the way to fix or bypass VATS. The starter enable relay is most often what fails. Next would be the VATS module under the breadbox. You can buy new relays, $9 and you can buy new modules on fleabay for $100 or a good module bypass for...

are you interested in cluster repair? or exchange? the Batee.com website offers the best DIY repair that I have come across. Most of the catalog stores still do digital cluster repair. Analog can be done by local shops.

best choice? 17" sawblade... if thats not an option, in 16" I would stick to the BFG and no other. Thats all I used when I had the 16s. The BFG lasted a long time, ran quiet, held the road very well, and were priced better than most and are available most everywhere. About $150 ea. I went...