Recent content by JimVette

I would change all 4 hoses. My '92 had 32K and in '05 my front hoses failed internally. At hard braking at a light they did not relieve the pressure to the brakes and they locked up. I had to pull off the road and let the pressure slowly ease off until they released the brakes. I drove home...

Years ago I had an '87 that had the same type of problem. It turned out to be the power window switch in the up position. I would put the windows up prior to shutting off the car and the switch would stay energized and draw down the battery. I think this was also causing me to go through...

No, not for sure. Just reading what the proportioning valve does. I would like to know for sure. I don't like just changing parts til the problem is fixed. RPM didn't seem to fall off. What would cause the brake pedal to be full up and rock solid, no cushoin what so ever and during this the nose...

I took the Z out for some exercise yesterday and had a problem. After 20 minutes on the road it started to bog down in 5th gear at 60 mph, I down shifted and still bogged down, power key on. I pulled off the road clutch in and when I applied the brake the pedal was all the way up and stiff with...

What's the weight. The problem with the mustang has always been putting it on a diet. Head to head against a Vette they will always have that 400/500 lb. fat man in the right seat.

I'm not real sure what you are replacing them with but just to remove tail lights from a C4 you remove the liscense plate and work yourself outward removing inside tail lights to get to the outside ones.

If you are buying as an investment with the intention of making money in a few years.........Good luck! If that is your intention then the money put in a passbook savings will make more money. Ask anybody with a 200 mile '90 ZR-1 or a low mile anniversry car and get their opinion. Everybody...

I just curious what the window is going to look like in 10-15 years when age sets in. Then the fixing or replacement cost. I like the cleaner look.

Years ago I had the same problem with my '66. It was only on one fender and showed up only after the car was stripped before painting. The guy used liquid stripper at the time. I had the car redone about 10 years later with the emphasis on getting out the oil that seeping through the paint...

Hp I'm with Boomdriver on this one. Those nickle/dime add ons don't really do any good. If you want more horses it's going to cost $$$$. I spent a lot of money to get mine where it is now. The only cheap mods that might help a little is the open air lid and replacing that accordian duct...

In talking with Gordon Killabrew good grounds are vitally important on these cars. To get a good ground he said to grind those star washers in. Replacing them with a flat washer is a big mistake.

Years ago I had a '66 327/350 and I had an intermittent electrical problem that drove me crazy. After a period of time I isolated it to the connections for the wiring at the firewall.

When anybody asks me questions about preference I point at my engine and say nice. I point to the other and say tupperware.

Years ago I had a '66 327/350 and starters would last about 6 month. I finally went to a reliable shop that specialized in rebuilding starters and alternators and they rebuilt the starter for a high compression engine. The starter was still on the car ten years later when I sold it.

Harsh engine cleaners (external) have been known to damage the front spring (fiberglass).