Recent content by So Bay Vetter

If you're talking about the console plate, it involves removing the shift knob (to get the shift boot off) and center arm rest lid. Each is a bit involved for a post. Best to use the service manual to do it properly otherwise there will be several broken parts in the process.

I've had my 96 for 7 years. I'm not not as savy as Hib or Junk but, in the handful of times it has run rough (without a code) it has been a fuel filter, clogged injector(s), a hole in the PCV hose (the rubber elbow, right before the valve but, eventually it threw a MAF code), and the big one...

Looking for a good rear carpet kit for my 96 coupe. Most kits are "pre-formed" which would be nice but I don't want to end up with a poor fitting kit. Any recommendations? Anyone put one in? Thanks! Good to be back on CAC p.s. I'm trying to avoid Corvette America; bad JuJu with their...

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Looking to expand the collection I've had since a kid in the sixties (wow! am I that old???) 1/32 Revell aluminum chassis slot cars, track, controllers, parts, you name it - I want it! Thanx!

I found it's common for that passenger well to fill with water, even on a coupe. It comes in around the rear seal and runs down behind the carpet into the well. When my radio reciever went bad, I took over a quart of water out of the well! I looks like your solenoids were submerged.

It doesn't sound like there's been enough aggressive driving to warp a rotor, unless they were bad out of the box. Are you getting similar stopping distance to the old pads? I was thinking maybe a piston isn't engaging completely. Also, the first time I did my brakes, I found extra shims...

I wouldn't muscle it too much just yet. They can be a bit fragile and older tops crack easily (at this point, they're all older, right?) I'd hunt down a local Vette club, go to a meeting and let them take a look at it. $0 - and you'll meet some great people!

Don'cha love it when the fix is $0.00!? The day after I brought mine home (no FSM's yet) I had to unplug my horns (at 6AM) before I could figure it out.

Did it work?

Brake fluid will eat the seals!! Get that stuff outta there! That got me to thinkin' . . . If the fluid has been sitting in an opened bottle for any length of time, and moisture has gotten to it, would that appear as a bleeding problem?

The metal tube that the low pressure return line connects to is press fit into the pump. On my first replacement pump (cardone) that press fit tube was loose; I could spin it with my fingers - BUT . . . I didn't discover it until I had the pump off the car (The Vette shop missed it entirely!) If...

Feel the inside firewall insulation (below where the master linkage comes thru the wall) to see if it's damp with fluid. Also, if memory serves me, there is a spacer between the master and the firewall (engine side). Is that in place?

I've done it 3 times and it still takes me at least half an hour to get the clip back on. Put the car up on jack stands and remove the driver's side hush panel. You have to sit down by the frame rail and look up at the pedal connection. I've used an exrta long set of needle nose pliers to hold...

The "top hat" is there to keep an air pocket, and moisture from developing in the reservoir. BE SURE!!! to use clutch fluid!!! Brake fluid will eat up seals in both master and slave :mad:hb