Search results

To my knowledge, no. L98 is the closest i know of. Jake

I use to by-pass the solenoid on the starter by just using a long screw driver and touched the 12v post on the starter to a small post on the solenoid. If the ignition key is in the "ON" position the engine would start. It can't be the neutral safety switch since if it was the cause you...

I changed starters on both my 86 and 96 and neither required removing the exhaust. Jake

I feel the same. I love the sound of my Gold CD and especially the auto volume control and sound balancing feature. Jake

I never had to deal with that so I can't help. Sorry. Jake

I don't know for sure but I suspect the wiring harness will allow the Gold Cassette/CD to be a direct swap in. If the CD/cassette was a factory option I suspect GM used the same wiring harness for both Going with an aftermarket sound system will call for resistors be added to the Gold wiring...

When my 96 did that it was the starter. On my 86 the intermittent no-start condition was chased down to the ignition module. Jake

Also, that specific issue is written about in the owner's manual for my 96 saying the pressure could be as low at 6 psi under the conditions you mentioned and that it's normal.. If you want to see a higher pressure at idle, move up one step in oil viscosity. Move up from, say 5W30 to 10W30...

I had the same problem two years ago when I was more than a thousand miles from home. I ended up changing mine on the side of the road. After that I started carrying a spare alternator in the hatch when far from home. Glad you're up and running again. T50-PLUS on that torx bit - Summit has...

There's an in-between size called a T50-PLUS. The SuperDamper calls for one. Only place I've found it is at Summit Racing. Jake

"The bearing locked slap up in the thing". What does that mean? How are you making out? Jake

I had the same problem and did the same thing, removed the bulb. It takes a longish torx head bit (even a star bit might work) to remove the screws. With the correct bit, my screws (96 LT1) came out easily. Jake

If all else fails, just make your way to a hardware/auto parts store, like ACE/AutoZone/etc. and buy one of those very inexpensive multi-size torx bit kits. I find them in display bins where sale tools are. I'll bet less than $10. Jake

I have a 96 cluster, but the lettering is white, so it won't match the 92-93. Check the CorvetteForum, I believe I saw one there. Jake

You could check some other Forums because I've come across several guys' posts on doing the same thing. I'm sure they'd want to share. Do a Search on http:// forums.corvetteforum.com (I know there are couple of guys there who have done or are doing it) and digitalcorvettes.com vettemod.com...

I wasn't aware there was any adhesive used. My 86 HL doors had screws on the side. Remove the screws and the doors come right off. Jake

A little engine oil on the O-rings helps them slide in more easily without the chance to tearing them. Jake

I've been searching for one, too, for my son's 96. Best price I've found is $139.95 at Mid-America. Jake

You folks remind me of politicians, parsing everything. LOL:L Jake

Well, I bought the one shown in my avatar. I'll be flying up to NY to pick it up the first week in May. That way I can kill two birds with one stone: pick up the car in NY then drive down to D.C. to attend my daughter's graduation from American University. After the ceremony I'll be taking...