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Or it was an older engine. Possibly California started in 1964 and the Feds later on. A filter may slow it down, but if and when that filter clogs the crankcase pressure will vent somewhere which is either your engine bay or gaskets.

The crankcase vapors will accumulate under your hood area, which is why the pre '64 vehicles had a down draft tube almost to street level.

Remember the tar strips in the middle of the roads on each lane before PCV valves? I remember as a kid having to walk over them.

There is no time or mileage limit on shocks unless you want to believe the aftermarket that pushes them for profit. When they are damaged or leaking or you have ride/handing issues then they should be replaced. Weeping is the start of a leak, but as a tech I would only recommend to watch for now...

Back in the old days if you could rock the damper pulley 8* of ignition timing (distributer rotor) side to side it needed to be replaced. With modern engines chains are usually considered "lifetime" by most manufactures and will usually make slapping noises or set CEL's with corresponding codes...

LS's are interference engines. Do a cylinder leak down and or pull the valve covers for valve/push rod damage.

On a stock OEM tire size or close to it I would not go below 28 psi cold.

Again, save yourself a lot of time and money and find out what you do not have when the engine will not start, and then start your diagnosis. Fuel pressure is one item, but fuel FLOW is more important. If it turns out to be a fuel issue make sure you check the fuel flow which should be about 1qt...

It looks like you have done everything but diagnosis. When the vehicle is not running you need to find what is missing, fuel, spark, timing, or compression, and not just throw parts at it which will just make things worse. Find out what parameters are missing with the problem active and diagnose...

Good luck with the sale, but I would say that you are understating the damage and repairs by quite a bit.

That's way too much oil, just change the filter and your good to go. Normally cat's don't go bad from oil contamination, but in this case with that much oil I would be concerned. I wonder if the ME C8 was designed to hold 2 golf bags? :)

I haven't had to do it yet, but if it were mine I would remove the door panel and take a look behind it and see what broke. It's probably a plastic part and there are some excellent glues/epoxies out there now.

It all depends on the condition of the vehicle and all of the service history. 150K miles is not too many miles on a well maintained, well taken care of vehicle. Have it inspected on a hoist by someone who knows these vehicles, the under car condition can usually tell you a lot about it. Has...

You need to do a systematic diagnosis of why the engine will not turn over, but the basics start with a carbon pile load test of your battery (even if brand new) and cables clean and tight and not twisting on the battery terminals by hand. As far the pulleys not turning, they will not turn by...

First off you need to find out why the belt came off, as they shouldn’t. Check your lower harmonic balancer pulley for integrity. If all looks good install a new belt and watch it carefully for wobbles or deflections at 1500 rpm and most importantly at hot engine idle.

Not really, that will usually set a code and turn on the CEL. Check your DIC for any stored codes. It could be false air (vacuum leak) entering the intake. Common areas are the pcv hose by the right valve cover, also check for any rodent damage in the engine bay, even if garaged.

Damn nice walkway it made, impressive......

So true.......

It’s a shame it happened for sure, but almost killed? Bit of a stretch.