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Well, my plans for the Shark have gone through a number of evolutions, as I'm sure many of you have noticed. Happily, I've avoided the temptation to buy expensive parts that I then don't end up needing. I had envisioned the Shark as a nicely-performing daily driver, which kept conflicting with...

The Dynomax UltraFlo's are great. You'll really like them. Joe

You know, judging by some of the pictures people have posted of their freshly-painted frames and newly-detailed undercarriages, I think you may need to rethink your little saying :) Joe

Stall speed is not dependant on stroke. The stall speed should be related to the powerband of the engine, such as drags1998 recommends. While your bore/stroke ratio has an effect on the powerband, so do numerous other things, including cam, heads, intake, etc. The torque converter should be...

I tend to like it. I prefer the earlier underswept nose ('79 and earlier) over the later ('80-'82) nose, but I like the look of the later tail. Best of both worlds :) Joe

It may be, but check your local laws. Undersize steering wheels are illegal in Maine, last I heard. Joe

It has, indeed. The only real concern with braided stainless hoses is that they can potentially "saw" through other metal if there is rubbing, but this is not an issue with the brake hoses since they don't rub anything. And concerns about disconnection of the fittings are unfounded. Modern...

Stainless lines cost about $15 extra... Joe

Did Chevrolet ever call the second generation cars "mid-years"? No? That doesn't stop it from being their nickname. The same goes for "sharks." The third generation body is a derivative of the Mako Shark II concept car, so "shark" became the official unofficial nickname for the third...

Stainless/Teflon hoses are superior technology compared to the rubber hoses. They last longer and provide better brake response. As mauivette pointed out, the reason why you don't see them in most OEM applications is the cost. The price difference between rubber and Stainless/Teflon is pretty...

Cleared... Joe

I haven't noticed any electrical connectors on it, so maybe the trucks didn't get the electronic controls? Or maybe it's just not the original carb... In any case, once I have a chance to clean it off (it's pretty grungy), I'll check for casting numbers and figure out what it is, exactly. Joe

That does sound like a U-joint issue. The joints tend to make noise when they are under load (ie, when your foot is on the throttle), and quiet down when the load is removed. Joe

"4-bolt" refers to the number of bolts holding the main bearing caps, which in turn hold the crankshaft in place. 4 bolts is stronger than 2 bolts (on the 350 block, anyway). As far as I know, 'Vettes have always had 4-bolt blocks, from the factory. So, if your engine is original, then the...

Someone may have used Loctite or some similar compound to keep the ball tight. Try a hairdryer on it for a minute or so. If you have an adjustable heat gun, that would work, too (on "low") - I think a non-adjustable heat gun would scorch the knob. Joe

Go with DOT4. It's fully compatible with any remaining DOT3 in your system, but with better properties. Joe

I'm thinking the first law of thermodynamics (conservation of energy)... Joe

I'm not sure about that. The explanation sounds like they are attempting to violate some laws of physics, but it may be the explanation that is lacking, not the concept. Joe

Thanks, guys. I'll check into those sources. Joe

There was some discussion a while back about how to rebuild a Q-Jet with performance in mind, and several good articles and links were posted. I can't find the thread, and my former computer died so I lost all the bookmarked links... So let's start from scratch: I want to rebuild a Q-Jet for...