I have adjusted them both ways, eng on or off. Both will work if each procedure is followed correctly. When building my engines I dry set them and that usually is it. When I have adjusted them running I used an old steel valve cover I cut out the top out and made a wall of thin cardboard. It...
This was a problem that also arose about 15 years ago when everyone was on the "Centerforce clutch train". While the clutch may or may not have been what was expected the geometry was off using a stock ball stud. An adjustable ball stud was the answer. Guys had to install the trans, check the...
If you remove the spindle you're going to wreck the bearings most likely so you should replace them. Now some think you can buy new bearings and reuse the shim but that's not going to work. You should be able to use the e-z lock type thread insert on the car but you have to be sure it's locked...
I see the rotor is held on now by the lug nuts so you will want to check the run out closely. You want it under 005" thru 360*. Also I see an empty bracket for the brake hose. There should be a horseshow clip there to hold the rubber hose in place. There should be a steel caliper line from the...
I see them a fair amount of time when I get in arms to rebuild. The chaser isn't going to help but you can try it if you like. You can repair it but I don't using Heli-Coils because the coils can unwind at times. I use a solid thread insert. You drill and tap it for the inserts OD thread. I...
Hib listed very good advice above. Good idea to clean out the old brake fluid too.
What I do is to check the rotor runout and bearing play, if those are really out of spec and you're using lip seal calipers then you're going to have air in the system in short order.
With the rotor runout...
Jim
That is the ball stud in the manual center link. It is an often overlooked part but it's a good idea to do what you're doing and check it. The end of the ball will wear or sometimes the springs break. The boots get ripped when a pickle fork is used to separate the pitman arm of the steering...
Check your basics, this engine is the same as all 1st gen SBC. Air-Fuel- ignition. As mentioned with the car off, open the choke plate and move the throttle- you should see a strong stream of fuel coming out. Check the distributor, points and condenser.
Dougelam is correct, no bushing, tapered splines. The nut should be torqued to at least 140 ft/lb. If the splines are copper plated then that is an original pitman shaft, the new ones are not plated.
Yes those stock studs can be done as can the 1/2" but one word of advice to those considering the ARP 1/2-20 studs. I sometimes had to machine the face of the stud head and the OD to clear the shoes, I now do it on all installs. I machine the length down to stock length but it you are going to...
Mike, they can be done, same as going to larger 1/2-20's but it's PITA. Some guys cut the backing plate or pull the star wheels from the parking brake to access them. You have to angle in the stud to the hole then draw it up with some nuts on the stud. If the arms are going to be rebuilt then...
The studs are press fit into the spindle flanges and are knurled. To get them out once I have a spindle out I just drive them out with a hammer and punch but I would be careful of hammering on the flange in the arm as the force will be applied to the bearings as well. You might be able to rig...
Hi Bob
Tom moved to ID about 10 years ago. Sounds like the 336's would be a good setup for you driving style. I run them in my 72 with TH400 and like them. If you are planning on buying gears I would get them while you still can.
Bob the 355 will work with the M20. I have built and run 336-355-373-and 411's with an Muncie M-20 and ST-10 M20. The ST-10 has a 2.64 first gear over the Muncie 2.54 I don't think there will be an affect on the compressor. All depends on how you're going to use the car. IF around town 355 or...
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