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The spreadbore Holley is a viable alternative if you cannot find a suitable Q-Jet. The Holley spreadbores do bolt up to the stock manifold, but throttle lever configurations and vacuum hose connections will be different from the stock carb on the engine, making some fabrication work required...

The Airgap is on there to stay, so the betting would be on the BG versus Holley, the 1-5/8" headers versus 1-7/8, and on the various carb spacer combos. If we have time to retard the cam, we're doing that, too, so bets are fair on the cam timing as well. The black midyear would be my '64:

Yeah, with starting prices for the entire conversion starting at $10,000. Right now, I have 407 hp for $3,000, and it bolts right in.

Have you tested the booster to make sure it's "bad?" In my 35 years of working on Vettes, I've never actually seen a bad booster, but you could be the first... Most "booster problems" have to do with engine tuning issues, resulting in poor engine vacuum. If it's actually ruptured, take it to a...

HELP! I’m a dyno addict!! We need more horsepower!!! You remember my earlier thread regarding the dyno results of a mild 383 roller engine that I build for a friend and Vette enthusiast: We got 407 horsepower and 444 ft/lbs of torque...

You can't get the cable lubed from the transmission (unless you flip the car upside-down to let the lube run up to the speedo head). The cable cannot be pulled out of the housing by disconnecting at the tranny. No - you don't use WD40. You use speedo cable lube, available from NAPA or GM. The...

No. Remove the A/C duct running under the steering column. Remove the nuts holding the column up and let the column drop. You can then reach up behind the dash and disconnect the speedo cable. Just have a box of BandAids handy and a bottle of Jack Daniel's. No problem.

Disconnect the cable housing at the back of the speedometer by depressing the retaining clip and pulling it out. Then, pull the inner cable out of the housing, lube it, and stick it back in. Re-attach the cable housing to the speedometer by pressing it into position until it "clicks." Lars

I don't need to take a break to have a brew - I have my beer while I'm working... :beerLars

I think you've duplicated posts, but here is a duplication of the answer I provided on your other post: There's not a lot to it. A couple of hints, though: I put brand new rubber pads on my lift pads before doing my lift and my drop - just to assure that I didn't do any damage to my wheel...

There's not a lot to it. A couple of hints, though: I put brand new rubber pads on my lift pads before doing my lift and my drop - just to assure that I didn't do any damage to my wheel openings. Make sure all 4 pads contact all 4 wheel openings at the same time so the lift loads are evenly...

There is variation in all the doors, so any door needs to be aligned uniquely. The striker does not align or adjust the door - the striker alignment is only to align the striker with the position that the door has been aligned to - it does not change the door alignment. To align the door...

Tractorgary - I just have to poke a little fun at everyone... welcome onboard! :beerLars

I'm Lars. You are Tractorgary. Are you talking to me or to yourself...? You're not hanging out with Charlie Sheen, are you? I need to know whether or not to be worried, and whether or not you're going to invite me to the party... I lifted my body right in the wheel openings as shown in the...

Not likely. The firewall is fiberglass, so you won't see any rust on that, unless the birdcage is so severly rusted that it's dripping stalactites like the Titanic. The only metal parts on the firewall are the doublers around major components, and they don't tend to rust. The #2 mount area...

You don't have any "rust" that warrants a body-off effort on that car - all you have is a little surface corrosion on parts, components and frame rails, partially as a result of the fire. Further, that year car is not worth the money you'll wrap up in it to do a body-off restoration, so there's...

All I'm seeing is a car with normal dirt and wear with a little surface corrosion. Looks fine to me. Clean it up and detail it out. Lars

Sounds like all you have is surface corrosion - that's not what most people regard as "rust." Surface corrision can be removed with wire brushing and sanding and treated with a rust converter before sealing up with epoxy primer or a POR-type product. There is no need to pull the body to deal...

My 1-year body-off job took 3-1/2 years and cost 3X the anticipated budget. Link here: http://www.corvetteactioncenter.com/forums/c1-c2-general-technical-discussion/125568-photos-my-3-1-2-year64-restoration-rebuild-process.html Lars

Since you came in so close, I'll send them to you for free...