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If the carb has wires going to it (a plug on the front and one on the top right front corner) in addition to the choke wire (going to the black plastic cap on the right side), you still have the E4ME. Also, the distributor will have a vacuum hose going to a small device on it if it is a...

Cons: 1. Will not pass some state's inspections. 2. Could lower re-sale value, especially if you don't keep track of the removed parts. Pros: 1. Cleaner looking engine compartment. 2. A minor increase in horsepower and fuel economy that you will probably never feel. Myths: 1. "You will be...

I live in Florida, so you can take this with a grain of salt (do we really have cold weather). Mine starts up and goes, even on "cold" days. I used to have problems with chokes not working right. I remember my parents buying new cars in the late 60's- early 70's and the choke did not function...

Float level is one possibility. Another is the way you hung the needle valve on the back of the float. Where you hang it has two holes, and it looks like you should hang the little wire hanger in a hole to keep it from falling off. If you do this, the valve will stay open and overflow fuel. This...

They may be available from some source, but I could not find them. I was able to get by as I described above. But, as I stated, I'm sure if you look on Ebay long enough, some retired mechanic will put his kit on sale eventually. God bless, Sensei

Thexton did make an electronic carb adjustment kit. If you watch on Ebay long enough, I'm sure you could find one. What you need are the tools to adjust the idle screws, MC solenoid travel and possibly the TPS. I used my dremmel tool cutting wheel to cut the head off an old screwdriver, then...

The float filling with fuel would be my first guess. If the float is sinking, the fuel level gets too high in the bowl and when you brake hard it vomits fuel. God bless, sensei

I think monster transmissions is a cheap ebay outfit. Why are you replacing the original converter, is there something wrong with it? You need a lock-up converter with your tranny. I believe the stock one is 2400 stall, so with a 1600 or 1800 stall, you'll loose some performance. If yours is...

The tranny has a 4 pin electrical plug on the driver's side. I'd have to go look up which pin, but one of them supplys 12 volts to the converter. Basically, that 12 volts should be there all the time except when the brake pedal is depressed. You could start by checking that. If the 12 volts is...

Because my wife's favorite color is blue! God bless, Sensei

Whoa! We are not talking about setting points! This is an '81, you use the dwell meter for carb adjustment. USE THE 6 CYLINDER LINE!!! (Like Gerry said)

It came in my car also. You can't see through it very well, but it helps with temps here in Fl. God bless, Sensei

I've done a fair amount of upgrades (I'm between 350-400hp). I have a Hypertech chip. For $120, why not? I think it gives you a little better timing advance curve. God bless, Sensei

Did you ever get this figured out?

Could you just be that far off? Move your distributor around and see if you can get it in range.

Check to be sure you are on the #1 wire.

Disconnect the 4 pin connector at the distributor and set the timing at 14 BTDC. 6 before is for emissions stuff and you get much better performance and fuel economy at 14. If you get detonation, the computer will retard the ignition and avoid damage. If that happens you may need to go to 12...

Don't loose any sleep over it having run over full, it will probably not be a problem. If you are sure you have the right amount of oil in it now, mark the dipstick (File a notch in the edge of it) where the oil is now and keep it there. God bless, Sensei

Does the fuse blow instantly, or does it take a while?

There is a EST diagnostic flow chart in the GM Service manual. I have no way of posting it here, maybe someone else can, but you need to own this book if you plan to work on your car. Here is the book on ebay, but the price seems a bit high...