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I've heard of folks having some success with cleaning and a new cap and rotor on the early opti. No reason it might not help on the later one either. The only way to really know is to remove the cap and see. They are sealed much better though and should be less prone to these problems and also...

Avoid Dexcool like the plague. Do a thorough flush, use two gallons of conventional ethylene-glycol and two gallons of distilled water. (Actual system capacity is 3.8 gal.) Also use one pt. of Pencool 3000 supplemental cooling additive. Repeat in two years at the most.

Core plug(s) are a definite possibility. The terms frost plugs or freeze plugs are misnomers. This is not the reason they are installed in your car. They are necessary to plug holes in the block that are required for the casting process. If you count on these to protect your block (if you're too...

Leave such things to the ricers. You have a Vette, it speaks for itself.

Yep, teflon tape works well on these.

The best and only one worth installing would be a custom one for your car and your mods. This would be after datalogging or dyno runs to evaluate the changes needed.

Worthless.

Who knows? The first step is to verify the accuracy of your electric gauge. If it's giving accurate readings at all times, then you have a problem which will become a much bigger one sooner or later.

I'd recommend checking out the many documented tests and reports on the "filtrationally challenged" K&N before considering it's use for an everyday driver. With $8K in my engine, I'll not risk it with a K&N or similar design air filter.

There are any number of problems that can cause a rich condition w/o throwing a code.

Build an engine. It's very realistic to expect a well put together stroked LT1 to make 375-400 RWHP and still be very driveable and reliable. And it will still get very good mileage if built with overall efficiency in mind.

Just one more reason to avoid the BBK TB.

Judging from your symtoms, I'm guessing the plugs are black from a rich condition. Assuming this is the case and they missed that fact from a simple plug read, it's time to cut your losses and take it to someone who knows what they're doing.

Can you start all of the bolts easily without forcing them? If not, I 'd recommending adjusting the brackets until you can. Also as you likely know, there's significant body flex in these cars and the top is actually under a good bit of stress when this occurs. It's treated as a structual member...

The GM ones were made by Crane, just like the ones that now come in the Hotcam kits. He'll see more than 5-7 HP especially if he installs suitable springs to keep the valves stable at higher RPMs.

You don't have one of my ex-wives under there, do you? ;LOL It sounds like gear whine from the diff. Your description is very indicative of this. It may or may not be a problem, besides the noise that is. It can be from worn bearings that have allowed an unfavorable wear pattern on the pinion to...

Seat of the pants, yes. Generally you can expect 12-15 HP. Mileage shouldn't suffer in normal driving. Idle won't be affected because by changing the ratio you're only increasing lift, not duration. Definitely upgrade your springs as stated above. I think it's a worthwhile mod that's relatively...

Nothing. Keep the fluid clean, don't overheat it and it should give good service. I didn't kill my original 4L60E (basically the same trans) until it was well over 100K miles and I had increased HP & torque by about 50% over stock and was using a high stall converter. I've seen plenty of later...

May I assume that it's an oversight on your part that you didn't simply replace the junk motor mounts? And no, I won't be bringing my car over for you to work on anytime soon.....

There are only two types of brakes that your '94 could have been built with, standard or J55 aka HD. Perhaps your car has been upgraded to J55 at sometime in it's life. Of course other possibilities would be C5 or aftermarket. But I'm assuming you'd know were that the case.