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It's been a while but I now have the iron diff in place. Just need to get the u joints on the drive shaft sorted and everything else back in and I'm good to go.

There was a power drivers seat option for 81-82 models. It moves back/forward, up/down, and tilts back/forward. If you can find one, then swapping it in is not easy, as they require a different floor pan to the standard seat.

Chased the treads today, and installed the seatbelt. Looks so much tidier with red retractable belts than it did with the other belts (which I noticed after removing them that they weren't even a matching pair) now i I just need to get the diff finished and I can drive it again.:D:D

There is some damage, I will be running a tap through, need to see if I can find the correct bolts still.

Replacing the seat belt in my 81 as someone had put fixed (3 point) belts in, and they were just annoying me. Started on the drivers side found two of the bolts were the wrong bolts. Even a child should be able to spot that they were not right. The passenger side still had the correct bolts...

Any issues with the park brake or choke lights? These are both on the same fuse as the tach.

Checked the spider gears today. Found this on one, similar marks can be found in a couple of other places too, but only on the one gear. Also found this on the cup washer? from behind one of the gears, the side shown is facing the gear, I think I know what would have caused this. Everything...

I thought 1st was 2.88. I haven't yet. I was going to pm you later today to ask if you could supply them. I don't want to end up ordering things i won't need, or miss things that I do need.

Still Running the factory 4 speed. It's a Borg Warner Super T10 from what I can tell. I guess this it the ST10 from above.

Thinking I'll go to 3.36 gears. Should give me better acceleration but a lower top speed. Engine will be at about 2700 at 65mph, up from 2200rpm that i had with the 2.72, so will use more fuel (but who ever bought a vette because they want fuel economy?)

It had the cast iron shims. Lash before I took it apart was fine although I only checked it in a couple of places, but where it was binding there would have been zero lash. If there was any runout of the ring gear I believe it would have been the bearings causing it. I am concerned about the...

Started to get things apart again today after work, and found something interesting (purely by chance) When the carrier was out I placed it on the bench with the ring gear bearing in the race it was in when installed and spun it. I then noticed that it wasn't spinning true, it looked like it was...

3.08 thats in there seems to be the original gm set. Date coded 6 72. At least i think thats s date code. But yest i have no idea what life they have had.

Housing looks fine. No signs of broken ring gear bolts, or anything else to be concerned about. Removed all burrs from the gears, and reassembled. Still binds up as it did before. It's binding for about three teeth every ninth rotation of the pinion. (if that makes sense, doesn't matter if i'm...

Odd contact pattern on pinion? Took my camera into work today to get the photos of the pinion. Once the pinion gear was removed I only found a shim under the bearing on the pinion, I assume this is correct, but please tell me if there should be one somewhere else. This is some of the odd marks...

I'm planning on a proper rebuild anyway, which will include a polish and posi tune, and dressing the edges. Just thought you might have come across this before. I do have a theory that there is a problem with the pinion bearings which causes the pinion to move into a pition that only causes...

Had another look over things yesterday before removing the carrier. found something strange. It seems like something is binding on every ninth rotation of the pinion. Have you every come across anything like that before? If it was every third rotation it would make sense, but why nine? there did...

That thread sure is interesting. Never heard of POR10 before but I think I would like to use it on mine. Was the top coat one of their products too?

As much as I want to just put in in so I can drive the car again I do think you are right. IIRC you have never taken a diff with snowflake clutches without finding at least one that has broken. When you say mill the pad 0.120" deeper what exactly are you referring to?

Got to have a look at the diff today It does look like the tear drop design with the 10-17 spiders. gear ratio is 3.08. My first impression is that this is a much better diff than the dana. I'm unsure about the clutch pack, it's not the solid clutch pack but to me it looks like it may have been...