Search results

Have a nice day!

Hey no need to get touchy. Just thought there might be more than one person needing a shifter since lots of people read the posts.

There is also one on Detroit metro craigslist under Corvette auto parts. It is from a Z06

I would pull the hub back off. It might be something that is binding up on the axle spline and not letting it torque down properly.

Do the paperclip thing and check for codes. There are three computers so make sure you are reading the codes correctly.

Put it up on a hoist and go over the steering and suspension. Sounds like something is loose somewhere. Tie rod, ball joint, Idler arm etc. You are right you don't need this happening at highway speeds.

I think I'd be shopping for a new ride! You could be chasing electrical problems forever, not to mention the mechanical issues. Your insurance may push for a quick settlement and leave you stuck with problems that don't show up right away. Count your blessings...

It is possible for the AC to overheat. If the temperature at the condenser cannot drop enough the system will overheat and not work. If the outside temperature was 109 and you were sitting idleing that is probably what happened. It might be a good idea to check your cooling fans to see if...

There is one on Detroit metro craigslist. Don't know if the numbers match.

ECM repair; Call them first and they will email you a form to include when you send it. Make sure the prom is in the computer. Mine wasn't and it delayed things a week. Python Injection Inc. 8625 Central Ave. Stanton, CA 90680 800 959-2865:thumb

There is a place in California that I sent mine to about 2 months ago. It cost $165 and is guaranteed. I willl post the contact info tomorrow as I have it at work and I am at home. It takes about a week for them to fix it and send it back. You don't pay tilll it is fixed.

How did you check for codes? You might need to check it with a DRB code reader.

Go to your Chevy dealer and get a bottle of limited slip additive. It is made special for the corvette. Put it in and do some figure 8's in a parking lot. It costs about 10 bucks...a lot cheaper than tearing the diff down.

:thumbDo the paper clip thing and check for codes. There are several things that can cause the lights. Invest in a service manual, you will be glad you did. Oh yea, It is probably not running anywhere near its full potential. Disconnect your negative battery cable and clean your grounds...

The check valve is the little plastic coupler that the vacuum line plugs into on the booster. You can get a new one at the HELPS counter at most auto part stores. Remove it and try to blow through it from the manifold side. It should not allow any passage in that direction.

Brakes work fine once the car is running. I figured out where the check valve is...Duh! That is the first thing I suspect.

On my 1992 LT1 the brake pedal is hard to depress before starting. The vacuum is obviously leaking down as the car sits. My question is, Is there a check valve that could be going bad or do I have to replace the whole brake booster? Thanks, Tom

Switch your temp gage to didital and watch it. See if you can detect when the thermostat is opening. The temp should climb till it opens then dip. If the thermostat is stuck the temp will continue to climb...You can't always trust the analog gages.

The cone I am referring to is what you are calling the mounting nut. It is cone shaped. Your issue is exactly the same as mine was. The top that you bought from Ebay is not original equiptment on a 1992. You are right about moving the nut over. First you have to make the cone shaped nut so...