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The real difference is in your budget. 396 is as far as you can go on the stock block, further would not be good. They almost always use forged internals, but the thing is that a street engine doesnt really need a forged crank, so thats almost a waste of money. (unless you have something nasty...

Lots of people mount it in the well beneath the headlight, if its wired correctly a little bit of water leaking in wont harm it. Another place I saw it mounted was on top of the blower motor.

Usually, we just go to Z51 or bigger swaybars, and poly bushings, then the camber brace. Check out VetteBrakes', they are the place I always go to look for better parts. They should have anything specific you want. I hope youre talking about the brakes from the 88+ models, those are a bit...

It is normal for a vette to run hot, but I dont think it should be running quite that hot (not over 250) unless its a hot day. You say your stat is opening and I assume the space between your condensor and radiator is clear, and the main fan comes on at 228F. So if those arent the problem...

No, mid 60s is exactly where it needs to be with the stock pump, yours is still going strong.

What hasnt been stated is the temperature at these pressures. It is normal for mine to run 50-60psi at idle until the engine reaches 150-160 (oil) and from that point it drops until finally idling in the 20s when hot. Cruise pressures should stay between 50-60 always, anytime your foot is on...

I forget what exactly must be done to put the TH400 in, but know that you need a Gear Vendors or other overdrive unit if you want a 4th gear. I know it'll need a new torque arm, custom driveshaft with a different yoke, maybe a couple other things.

Dont go with high volume, that'll break something. I have high pressure Melling, M55A, had it for a year and dont have any problems whatsoever.

I know that PF25 and PF35 work for us. I thought the 35 was the longer one. However, I dont use either anymore, I went up to K&N HP2002 filter. Sometimes i use the M1-202 Mobil filter.

Stock is 6 BTDC, I set my 86 (basically the same setup) at 8. L98s tend to like more timing.

Both are factors. However, if I only put 3-5K per year on the car, because I had her put up for winter, Id change it once at the beginning of spring and thats it. Since I drive every day, I change at 3-4K with Mobil 1 and a K&N oil filter. You cant stop blowby on an engine, and definitely...

The Kumho's will grip in the autocross only after you get them really hot.

Best for money-Kumho. I have them now and I like them. Best overall-Firestone SZ50, best rain tire I ever used, good dry traction and quiet. Just expensive as hell. If you really wanted to stick with Goodyears, the only one that I even considered trying was the Eagle F1's.

I dont see how in the world you could save money by getting LT1 heads, because you'd have to either convert them yourself (horror story) or pay to have them converted, and that would end up costing as much as a port job or brand new heads for the 87 that are made to fit.

LT1 heads are setup for the reverse cooling, so those wont work. The 128 heads that come stock in 87 are said to be good for about 300-325hp untouched. Ported, you should be able to get 350 to 375 out of them before air flow becomes a problem at high rpm. They would not hold you back with...

Performance is equal for the various longtubes. If you have emissions, you can get the Hooker 2149, which comes with the AIR tubing in place if you want to hook that up. It also comes with the O2 bung, but you will need an EGR pipe from 88-91 for the Hooker headers if you decide to leave that...

throw away the airfoil and the power tower throw away the hypercrap put the stock chip back in

85 and 86 have a 2000rpm TC from the factory. All later vettes have something in the 1500rpm range.

MORE can do the work. To everything but the tranny, that is.

The automatic will need a stout rebuild, both soft and hard parts. Youll need to find a good builder.