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I agree with JohnZ.... Another reason probably had to do with the rules of the sports car racing associations, although I do not know exactly what they were at the time. I'm not an avid racing fan, so I could be mistaken about this, but I seem to recall that the allowed engine size for the class...

Although the position of the wheels may have made it more difficult to install the half-shaft (how difficult was it?), I doubt the position of the wheels would make any difference, once the car has been driven at least a bit after the install (to straighten the tires in the vertical plane). Easy...

According to my 63 AIM: The little ones with the two holes to accept the wires go on the same bolts that hold the spark plug heat shields on for the 1-3 and 2-4 cylinders... the holder portion of the clip goes directly above the bolt. There are also clips to hold the two wires one above the...

And perhaps this might be helpful: http://personal.linkline.com/car-nuts/63C2engine_2.jpg

Dunno about current number, but it was 5458832 for 65-67 according to my circa 1976 parts manual. GM Parts Direct doesn't show that number in their online parts system.

Yet they are selling this one for $10k more: http://tinyurl.com/dbr94 Go figure!

No one can answer that question for you. Depends on what all you want to do. Certainly you do not need to remove the body to refurbish the suspension and brakes and replace a radiator. Nor would I even consider doing it for just those things. It becomes nesessary when you need to de-rust or...

Join NCRS and peruse their next quarterly issue of the "Driveline" Here's another dealer, not cheap but usually sells nice cars only... http://www.corvettemike.com/showroom/?range=1953-1967

You might want to check with Al Knoch, I think I remember hearing he can rebuild stock C1 seats with extra padding and bolsters in the seats, and will cover them in stock-appearing leather if you want to pay for those modifications. It's also possible he could supply non-stock color on seats or...

Looks very nice, congratulations! ... what else are you planning to do besides the engine rebuild? I haven't had a 383, but in the general discussions I've read, it's a good thing! Gobs of low-end torque. Just out of curiousity, what will the rebuild (without stroking) cost? Even GM is selling...

Without some very specialized tools, rebuilding the rear bearings is a trial & error setup job requiring numerous disassembly/reassembly attempts to get the shims right; each time you disassemble/reassemble you run a high risk of damaging something. It's just not worth the trouble and risk...

Check with eBay, my guess is that if any of those folks want to make you a firm offer, you can probably sell it to them... if that's not what you want, you can relist it and email those that said they tried to bid. I'm not sure why eBay would be at fault if the bidders all tried to get in at...

You might take a look at the shocks, to be sure they are functioning well and the proper ones for the car, and see if you have the lower A-arm bumpers in place, number 11 in this page: http://www.licorvette.com/pdfcatalogfiles/cat23/4950.pdf Also check the backspacing of your wheels. I'm not...

Perhaps the passenger side had some bodywork at some point and is not exactly at original dimensional spec. I don't normally like this solution, but perhaps your car is a candidate for thin wheel spacers on the front wheels, assuming that won't cause an even more problematic interference with...

You have an email, asking if you want me to email some shots (can't post to my website right now). WOOPS!!! I need to learn how to READ... my photos are of a 67 BB hood, not sure how I messed that up. Sorry. Hopefully IH2LOSE can help you out.

Line up the top coil in the frame pocket, it's position is more critical. End of top coil needs to be 3/8" away from the coil stop with the spring under mild compression, so make this adjustment with enough tension relieved from the spring compressor so as to "hold" the spring snugly in place...

It probably will if it gets on the points. But the temperature thing seems more like a choke issue (sorry, I'm not familiar enough with FI to troubleshoot that).

According to the Corvette Central catalogs, the C1 uses a 27 inch tach cable, while the 62 uses a 33 inch cable.

And bear in mind that C1 steering is NEVER going to feel as tight as the rack & pinion steering in modern cars.

Long Island Corvette Supply lists them in their catalog.