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Your mechanic probably thinks he has to drop the tank. You replace it through the filler cap. Remove gas flap door. Pull out rubber boot. Disconect 1-2 elect. connectors (can't remember exactly). Take out the bolts around the filler neck and lift out the assembly. Might take an hour. Some...

Congrats on the vette. Just put the gear shift in OD and leave it. It's fine for driving around town unless you are in constant traffic. In that case you can leave it in Drive. It's not necessary to shift from OD to Drive. Rear hatch weatherstrip - yea mine is seperated too. I think it's...

I think it could be a rich condition. I remember the last time the left sensor was covered in black soot. Once I have a chance to look at them again, if the left side is sooted up again, I'll assume I have a bad injector.

You have a PM

I've got another bad O2 sensor on my 95 after just replacing them less than 4000 miles ago. Prior to that my 02 sensors lasted less than 3000 miles before they were replaced at no charge by Pep Boys. Now they're going bad again. They are Bosch sensors which I thought would be good. The ones...

I think they look nice. Got a close up?:cool

I need the gas filler door hinges and the rubber boot around the filler neck if it's in good condition. Also the throttle cable guide bolted to the runner (center) bolt.

Ok, decided to install the old relay back into the harness before trying the test light and the car started up immediately. Unlike w/o the relay the car would crank for a minute or two before starting. I'll take a test drive once the weather clears up to see if everything is back to normal...

Sorry, not my taste. But to each his own.

Can anyone recommend a good code reader for a '95?

"TheRight Stuff" is the only stuff in my book. If applied correctly, you won't have any leaks.

The 114132 is a flat tappet cam. But I'm sure Crane Cams can recommend a similar grind for a roller block. I would call their toll free tech line and ask. I have the 114132 in my '86 and think it's great.

Is it possible that you have an air leak at the plenum/runner or runner/base, or maybe the brake booster line into the plenum?

Also, I had mine in the shop twice to have them bleed the slave and they never could get it right, so I had to do it myself. You know what they say..... Anyway, I was having your same simptoms until I did the work myself.

I don't know what book you have, but I hold the slave up vertical and have always gotten good results. Might be worth a try. BTW - nice motor.

Did you remove the slave unit when you bled the line?

Ok, you are correct. The harness I'm dealing with has 1 tan (could be orange), 1 green/white, 1 black/white & 2 red. Now the question is: why won't the car start with a new relay (or old one for that matter) plugged into the harness, but starts and runs without the FP relay? And do you know...

I would ask them for the pink tops. If you actually do have 19#, you may have a lean condition causing you problems.

Yes the dash light and OD work as normal with out the relay installed. New developement: Purchased a new relay and installed yesterday. Car will not start with new relay installed. Pulled new relay off, car started right up. Checked fire to the plugs - none. Did all the standard ignition...

Well, the fuel pump relay and OD relay are located together next to the brake booster on the firewall. The Fuel pump relay is behind the OD relay. These are the relays I'm refering to. When I switched relays between the two to see if one of them wasn't working, the car would not start with...