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You can do that but you'll have to use rod ends on the struts otherwise the geometry will be beyond what the bushings are designed for. You will also run into potential problems with the spring, a sway bar if you have one, parking brake cables, halfshafts... there's more to it than just...

Here's mine again, with the home built suspension I moved the rear wheels backwards about 3" to get the wheels centered in the flares, often you see the wheel looks to be too far forward because of flare positioning (can't move flare further forward because of the door gap)

thanks for the compliment...a lot of time and effort went into it. Looking forward to seing your pics :)

The red car is a photoshop of a model car, it's how it's supposed to end up looking.

Yup :) it's even worse if you have one of those scissor types, they're excellent for taking a finger off... I have a pneumatic rivet gun now :)

just buy a cheap rivet gun and some rivets that break off smooth (they are special rivets, ordinary rivets leave an ugly finish) There's nothing to it, insert rivet in rivet guin, stick rivet in hole and squeeze the handle without banging your knuckles together

You have to remove all the screws from the t bar trim and drill out (carefully0 those rivets, if you remove the roll bar upholstery you can remove the other side of the rivets. There are also screws on the inside between the t-top locking tangs so you have to remove the dome light, screw out...

Cool, can you post pics? I'd really like to see how you did it. I have coil overs on the front also, I severely modified the frame and built custom lower arms. I also have an end take off front steering rack and pinion setup: The whole front frame structure is there for the rad, oil...

Don't be foioled, what you are looking at is easily a couple of months work, with all the calculating and designing even more. You will have to seriously cut up the car, removing the storage boxes and relocating the battery of course. Doing it like norvalwilhelm did with the brackets on the...

Yes, the complete front & rear suspension is designed and built by me. I first built a 5 bar for the rear but after some consideration I felt I should have gone with double a arms and did. Here's some pics: The old 5 link

I have...how much do you want to cut up your car? Here with my double a arm rear suspension and here with the 5 bar I built before that: You could just weld a support to the trailing arm that angs below it and then bolt the coil over to that and to a new mount located slightly...

It's not just a notch, hard to see in the pics but there's also a bulge welded on top, right where the crossmember slopes down, the bulge runs all the way up to the parking brake guide wheel bracket.

who knew...this is a spelling bee!!

they are also a sort of blessing in disguize, you now know the front end is original.

Yup, it's a 99-02 jeep box with internal assist, indeed you delete the valve and assit ram. Either you use a manual center link or immobilize the stock steering valve (and eliminate the damn slop that's in that thing and you can't get rid of it when retaining it) It's bolt in, the jeep box is...

Yes, they are L88 flares. You can get them from frank gregorian (fgregg racing) aci, mid america motorworks.... m.a.m. is 100$ cheaper than directly from ACI.

you could buy a 16.75 appleton rack :)

my heap o junk

Unfortunately NO! Steeroids is a rear steering center take off rack and pinion, it allows you to place it about where the stock center link is and the center take off means it has a bracket in the center that tie rods bolt to. The C4 corvette rack is a FRONT STEER END TAKE OFF rack and...

Here's the latest pic of my POS :)