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Not sure why you guys have such hi heat in your oil. With synthetic and a clean cooler it should run no more than 10-20 degres more than the coolant unless you are running it hard. 150 is a good start. Do you think race engines get the oil that hot before they run. Heat will make it flow easier...

I do not believe antifreeze or water. That would not turn the oil to jello. It would make it milky and thin, not jello. And for sure would require new bearings.

Well I live in Michigan and I will tell you NO wide tire works in snow. PERIOD. Than add a light car with high hp. Mine was in the snow once I was eating dinner in a restaurant after work and it started snow it was anything but fun driving home. I am not a sissy. I drive circle track cars...

While the pan is off I would check #2 or #3 rod bearing. I would think the motor was oil starved and those are the first two bearings to show wear. If there is wear now would be the time to freshen the motor before it destroys it self.

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What is the temp outside there. Might be a reaction to the mixture of oil and additive.

Check your oil cooler it may be plugged somehow. If the lifters are clattering at start up they are not getting oil. So I am wondering why, or you have 2 problems. Relief in the pump is normally closed evcept cold weather and hi rpm. Not sure I buy that being stuck. Try a different brand oil...

Go to your local GM dealer they will show you the parts diagram. You need to get the plastic plate part anyway. It is very easy job. You will need a wheel puller and a lock ring compressor. Altho they arent mandatory it makes the job a lot easier. I have several manuals if you cant see what you...

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Mine hangs loose under the dash. I have to remove the panel under the steering wheel to get to it. Try the 4 ways if they work listen for the flasher clicking. Turn signals and flashers each have there own flasher but they are next to each other.

Flasher Unit

If mine sees 3 snowflakes it is stuck. A few years back had an early unpredicted snow and still had it out. Made it home but they do not like snow. Wont go wont stop big tires are just not the ticket for snow.

EGR can cause rough idle and doesnt throw codes very fast.

Take the old one with you to your local parts store they have many aftermarket ones available. If it isnt cracked it could be milled flat. The newer o-ring ones are very nice.

I would use the Mobil 1 . I my self use KLOTZ. We have used it in all our race motors for over 10 years. I have not had one failure due to lubrication. I worked with GM on the oil and they allowed the use of the KLOTZ as well as Mobil 1 for there racing crate motors. I do not like the Royal...

I installed the Accel injectors in mine 2 years ago with no problems yet. I would buy the adjustable regulator as well. My injectors would lead down while shut off causing a very rich start with a miss that would clean out. The Accel injectors were much cheaper than the GM units. Good Luck. BTW...

It was a year or two ago so I dont remember well. I believe the cluster comes out in 1 piece and the harness easliy unplugs. Seems like 1 of the screws was hard to find the first time. If memory serves me you have to take the cluster apart to get to the bulbs. Any one with dash knowledge should...

I had my dash out several times changing bulbs. If you have done any dash work it was fairly easy. The screws are kinda hard to see some are back in aways. The bulb is a standard mini bulb. I would not lose sleep over it. I dont trust it to start with, just watch the mileage no mater if you fix...

Every C4 stick I have driven does it including my own. I never looked it up in the book but I bet it is normal.

If memory serves me right that tube has a plastic plate underneath. I think the part is easily found.