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FWIW, most people don't listen to me on this topic anyway (rightly so, because I'm no expert), but my Uncle's company manufactures air, oil and fuel filters and to make a long story very short; he recommends saving your money and running standard paper filters. Just change them when they get...

That is sweet. Great idea.:w

Does the owner have the last test? Those numbers will help us diagnose the problems the car may have. It could be a simple (cheap) EGR, O2 sensor or more expensive pia like Cat converters.

It could also be a u-joint. Mine made a lot of noise when one fell apart.

I believe the rebuild kits stopped being made after '88. The cylinders changed a bit from '89-'96.

Yep. Contrary to the repair manuals, the '89-96 slaves are self bleeding. I honeslty have no idea why the writers of the repair manuals want to make the job seem difficult, because its not. Over the last two years I've had a bit of a slave cylinder soap opera going on. You may have read...

Mine needs it also, and it's expensive. I just try not to park in the rain.:L

Use either a DOT3 or DOT4 brake fluid. I use Valvoline Synpower DOT 4. The slave cylinders are actually self bleeding and if you remove the top of the master and slowly depress the clutch pedal you should see bubbles rising from the line if air is in fact trapped and the slave is working...

The sending unit is your problem and with any luck the float arm is only stuck. The sending unit itself can be cleaned using a q-tip and some wd-40. They aren't cheap to replace so I'd start by cleaning it. If you need any help with how to go about pulling the pump assembly and cleaning just...

Are you doing tranny fluid or your clutch line? Both are easy but use very different fluids.

The fuel sending units are a little different from 88 to 96. I took mine out ('95)and cleaned it up a couple of weeks ago and it is a little better. The unit itself is very simple and does get dirty over time. Before throwing money at a new part I would try cleaning the contacts first.

The socket is the one that plugs directly into the back of the light (standard three prong type) Get access (4 small torx bolts) and just un-plug it and look for a broken wire. If nothing looks broken; the replacement headlight you'll need is #6054 (I recommend Sylvania). And I'd replace both...

Before blowing the dough on new lights check the connector/socket. I had a similar problem but it was my high beam that didn't work. The connector has three wires running in/out. Sorry, I wish I had pictures to show you. If one is broken you lose either high/low. A new socket is super cheap.

Have you tried www.zfdoc.com they are the masters.

If you MUST remove the tank; 1) remove the filler tank door and romove the 9 screws holding the filler neck housing. Disconnect the feed and return lines and the electrical. 2) Behind the license plate there are two (I think) bolts holding the "fascia" in place. 3) remove the spare tire...

I've had to replace two since last Febuary. My leak was coming from the rubber boot seal. They were direct from GM (I'll check the part # when I get home if it will help you) They are painted black and what apears to be aluminum. Plastic just doesn't seem right.

In addition to the above mentioned, if you have a floor jack you can lift from the center of the car and get both sides off the ground at the same time. In the front you can safely lift from the cross member. I place a section of 2x4 on the jack saddle and center it on the cross member...

When you were ratcheting it your foot was OFF the brake, right? If ratcheting it a whole bunch of times didn't work, check to see that the cable is conected at the mechanism. These cables are not prone to stretching very much. Otherwise you'll be looking at taking the caliper apart and...

If it's never or rarely been used they are very prone to "seizing" or more simply "don't work". If your car is a manual trani you should use the brake everyday to keep the brakes adjusted properly. These brakes are self adjusting. The e-brake on 88-96 cars use the rear calipers and adjusting...

I had a similar problem with mine shortly after buying it. I canged the fluid and everyhting was back to normal. I'd start there becuse it's cheap. How's your fluid level in your master cylinder reservoir? Do you have a firm pedal? You'll get a similar symptom if there is even a miniscule...