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Well, I finally popped the brake transmission interlock solenoid off, and everything's cool! The button pushes easy, and it shifts right out of park, as long as the switch is on. I think that's a safety feature I don't really need.

Well, I didn't fix anything, it is still hanging up. I have taken to leaving the key in, setting the parking brake, and locking it up. I read somewhere that you can just pop the solenoid off, and everything works, except you don't have to step on the brake to put it in gear. Comments?

Never mind, now it works, but I'm not sure that I fixed anything. I did adjust the steering column cable lock a little. Since I'm not sure why it works, I am a little tentative about putting it all together, but I guess the only way to know is to drive it.

Okay, I have the console removed. It looks like the solenoid is not working. 1. Is there a way to test the solenoid? 2. How do I remove the solenoid? Do I have to pull the whole shifter mechanism? Thanks!

Yeah, that's on my list. I also need to get some miscellaneous parts, so I'll be surfing ebay.

Well, I have the car on jackstands for another reason, and I disconnected the shifter cable to see if that was the reason. Transmission shifts fine, but the lever still won't disengage Park. When I finish my other little project, I will pull the console and shift plate cover to see what I find...

This developed gradually. It just got harder and harder to disengage park, until finally it won't. I believe it is a mechanical problem, like misadjusted linkage, or a worn part? I did have a differential swapped out a month or so ago, but this problem seemed to be already developing.

It's is my garage. I have jacked up the rear to make sure it wasn't just under torque, and no go. It feels like the button doesn't engage, but won't push down. Thanks!

My 95 Coupe is stuck in Park and the button won't release. What do I need to do? Adjust the linkage? Thanks in advance!

Yeah, I may have confused two conversations. The other conversation was what I could do in SCCA's Street Prepared class, where update/backdate is acceptable throughout the C4 generation. Thanks again!

Thanks for your help! Under SCCA rules in stock classes, springs and rear sway bars must be stock for that year. Shocks and front bars are free. It looks like both FE1 & Z07 rear bars are 24 mm on a 95. My next step will be Konis, and I am considering changing to a Z07 setup if I can find the...

I bought a diff. on ebay, had a mechanic friend check it over, and Manweiler Chevrolet in Hoisington is changing it out. It should be done in the morning. I had a hard time deciding who to trust the job to. Initially, I planned to change it out myself, but decided otherwise.

Thanks, that answers most of my questions! It looks like the FE1 & Z07 rear sways are both 24 mm. I haven't found any information that indicates the FE7 is a stand alone option. On a side issue, I have the car in the shop swapping in a 3.07 differential that I found at a reasonable price. I'll...

I have a 95 coupe, automatic, FE1 suspension. I would like to upgrade it for SCCA stock class Autocross. I understand Z51 was not available in '95. Here are some questions: 1. Was Z07 available with an automatic? What all did it include? 2. Was FE7 available alone, or was it part of another...

Ooops, my typing got me again! I believe the option is a 3.07, not a 3.09. For my driving the "performance gearing available is probably too much compromise on the highway.

I haven't drag raced enough to develop a consistent launch, and I've done it on street tires. On the other hand, I autocross on sticky autocross tires, but on varied surfaces. I have tried two techniques. One is to bring engine speed up to a specific rpm (2500?) and drop the clutch and roll into...

My 95 6 speed ran 13.8 @ 103 on street tires with lousy launches. I believe it had a 3.45 rear gear. MY 95 auto with 2.59 gears runs 14.4 @ 98 on street tires. It bogs off the line with that gear set.

My car makes a whining noise at highway speed when I back out of the throttle. It seems to be getting louder. I assume it is the differential (Dana 36, automatic)? How serious is this? the car is pretty stock, and I autocross on R-tires. A secondary question - I have the 2.59 rear gear, and...

I may have forgot to mention that the motor runs, but there is a grinding noise when it slips. I think the gears are just worn. Eventually, I will probably replace the complete mechanism. However, there are other things more important. I have seen a rebuilt complete mechanism in one of the...

Thanks! I took the seat bottom out, it's not off track or jammed. The seat mechanism works both ways sporadically, but it is not trustworthy. There is a grinding noise when it slips, so I suppose a replacement mechanism is in order. However, it comes after new R-tires and shocks, probably in the...