160 thermostat,why not?

[nitroused]

reason for me wanting it is cause i will be using nitrous,i don't think it is a good idea to spray on a motor over 200 degrees and when you get on the nitrous usually temps go up even higher,any input?

 

[HallenTi]

I have read that using a thermostat of a lower opening point will indeed make it open earlier (at a lower temperature), but since the radiator is the actual thing that determines how cold/hot the coolant gets, the thermostat opening temperature has no affect on the running temp of the cooling system. This makes sense to me, but I am no expert.

 

[c4c5specialist]

HI there,
One reason, piston to bore clearance.
That is why I would NOT run a lower temp thermostat.
Nitrous burned fuel, plus the piston temperature will cause the pistons to scuff on the bores, creating worse problems.
Allthebest, c4c5

 

[nitroused]

so you're saying is better to leave the stock thermostat even though i'll be on nitrous.

 

[c4c5specialist]

Yes, because your cooling system is very efficient.
If you need better cooling, reduce your 50/50 mix of Dexcool to 60% water and 40% Dexcool.
That will assist in your cooling.
Or, have your engine built to use nitrous, with a forged piston that has adequate piston to bore clearancing.
Allthebest, c4c5

 

[nitroused]

got it.

 

[mrm1149]

Great to have the unbiased tech advice!

 

[T&L]

160

Hi all Hey C4-C5--is a 180 ok for a stock motor? Or is it best to leave well enough alone? I was just wondering--I can see 160 being to low. Mine runs right at 192-4 all the time.

T&L

 

[c4c5specialist]

Hi all Hey C4-C5--is a 180 ok for a stock motor? Or is it best to leave well enough alone? I was just wondering--I can see 160 being to low. Mine runs right at 192-4 all the time.

T&L

Hi there,
I would leave it alone.
Allthebest, c4c5

 

[Vettefan87]

I have read that using a thermostat of a lower opening point will indeed make it open earlier (at a lower temperature), but since the radiator is the actual thing that determines how cold/hot the coolant gets, the thermostat opening temperature has no affect on the running temp of the cooling system. This makes sense to me, but I am no expert.

That is about half true if you ask me. That is correct if you are just sitting in traffic the car will eventually warm up to whatever the fan temps are set at, but at cruising speeds if you had a 160 Tstat it would reduce engine temps significantly. I am currently running a 160 Tstat and have my fans set to turn on at 175 so my car runs very cool.

 

[TODD L GRIFFITH]

I have 11:1 compression and have the 160 degree thermostat. The car runs between 174-180 usually. I took alot of measures to make sure that I do not have detonation. There is also an excellent article in 5/06 Hot Rodding magazine for pump gas engine building and tips to avoid detonation. I was happening to be doing my head install at the same time, so I incorporated some of the tips into my swap and everything has worked out great.

 

[Remo]

That is about half true if you ask me. That is correct if you are just sitting in traffic the car will eventually warm up to whatever the fan temps are set at, but at cruising speeds if you had a 160 Tstat it would reduce engine temps significantly. I am currently running a 160 Tstat and have my fans set to turn on at 175 so my car runs very cool.

This is very similar to how Lingenfelter sets up their LS1 and LS2 modified engines. I have a 160 thermostat and the car runs right around 180 degrees. Fans are set up to come on at 175.

Remo:cool

 

[Dokken]

How do you do this?

:confused How do you set your fans to come on at 175?:confused

 

[elints]

Lowering the thermostat without changing the on/off setpoint for the fans is turning the temp control over to the ambient temperature of the air flow. Not good control theory.
The stock engine was designed to run with a 195 and the fans set to keep the radiator at a point where the thermostat stays in control. If you change the thermostat then change the fan settings accordingly. Unless your internal engine is non-stock, I would suggest leaving the thermostat as designed.

JMHO

 

[Hib Halverson]

*If* you're going to run a 160 'stat, not only do you need to recalibrate your fan-ons but you really need a more efficient radiator because, the stock cooling system is seldom capible of cooling down that low at the times when having coolant at 170-180 would be advantageous, ie...wide open throttle.

I've got an SLP 160 'stat, a Fluidyne High-Performance radiator and calibration with a Crane Power Tuner (a handheld reprogrammer) which lowers the fan-ons. While I've never seen coolant temp down at 160, it now runs 170-180 most of the time and 190 or so in traffic.

Remember, the thermostat is a control device, not a cooling device. The radiator, coolant mix and airflow are your cooling devices.