1958 hubcaps

[deanb]

I switched from bias ply to coker classic radials. Great ride, but the hub caps will not stay on the wheels. Any suggestions on keeping the caps in place. Thanks

 

[MCMLVII]

Had a similar problem with my '57. I gently bent the inner portion of the inner edge of the hubcap out. (The part that catches the nubbs on the wheel.)

The problem went away.

Good luck.

ps Never lost a hubcap until I switched to the radials.

 

[JohnZ]

Radial tire construction places more lateral load on the old rims, designed for bias-ply tires, which causes them to flex slightly; this usually causes the wheel covers to rotate on the rim, restrained only by the (badly distorted) rubber valve stem. I battled this on my '57 for a long time until I finally gave up and had steel valve stems installed, which cured it. Never had a problem with them coming off, just rotating. If you're having a problem with them coming off, some judicious bending of the wheel cover retainer ring adjacent to the wheel "nub" locations should cure it, assuming the "nubs" aren't worn down too close to the rim surface. The wheel cover rotation problem is VERY common on C1's after switching to radial tires.

 

[Neal]

I too just replaced my Firestone bias ply wide whitewalls with Cokers and could not believe the difference in the ride. Fortunately I've had no problems with my hubcaps, but I reckon I better keep an eye or two on them even more than usual, at least for a while!

 

[deanb]

Thanks for the ideas. I bent the tabs outward quite a bit. In fact, I thought that I bent them too much as I could barely pound them on the rims. After driving less than two miles, two caps popped off. Is it possible that after popping off once or twice, the caps are slightly out of round and hence they will never stay on? Any thoughts? Thanks

 

[MCMLVII]

I lost mine 3 times after switching to radials. Always my left front wheel. After bending the inner rims they were difficult to get on straight, but it did work. I have not lost a cap in over a year.

I do monitor the fit between the cap and the rim on a regular basis since I still do not trust it.

It is a major embarassment to lose the hupcap in a heavely trafficed area. (Twice for me and once in quite neighborhood with no one looking.) The hupcap did not seem to suffer any major distortion. But I did pick up a couple of spares as back up. I hope the just remain as nice wall hangers in the garage.

I would recommend you you try John's suggestion by replacing valve stems with a steel version.


Good luck!

 

[MCMLVII]

I lost mine 3 times after switching to radials. Always my left front wheel. After bending the inner rims they were difficult to get on straight, but it did work. I have not lost a cap in over a year.

I do monitor the fit between the cap and the rim on a regular basis since I still do not trust it.

It is a major embarassment to lose the hupcap in a heavely trafficed area. (Twice for me and once in quite neighborhood with no one looking.) The hupcap did not seem to suffer any major distortion. But I did pick up a couple of spares as back up. I hope the just remain as nice wall hangers in the garage.

I would recommend you you try John's suggestion by replacing valve stems with a steel version.


Good luck!

 

[Tom Bryant]

Since we are on the subject, has anyone ever used a newer wheel and added the nubs with their MIG and smooth and shape them with their die grinder? I'm considering a set of Rallys from one of the vintage wheel places in 6" front and 7" rear with custom backspacing for optimum tire fit. Run a 215 front and a 225 or even a 235 rear. How about spacing out 5 nubs instead of 4? The newer rims designed for radials should cure the flex. Once the cover is on who will know the difference plus you could switch over to Rally caps for a different look occasionally.


Tom