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1961 283 2x4 won't run when warmed up!!

S

Sean M

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Greetings, - Pesky problem with my 61

My 283 2x4 (carters) all original with 58K was running fine until a couple weeks ago on the next time out after it's longest one day run (appx 100 mi) in which it ran perfect.

As soon as I stopped at a light once the engine was warm, it died and refused to start until it sat a little and I choked it to get it going. Once going, it would run until I slowed again and the same thing happens!!! Average weather outside. I changed fuel filters just to be safe and parked it for the day, but i have tried it two times since and the probem occurs just after the fist couple miles. I did see some fuel pushing out the carb jets, but did not experience and wooosh when I opened the fuel cap and having it open did not make it start. The only other thing I did before parking it in surrender was to play with the Carter climate control on the primary carb, turing it from the center where it has always been away from the lean side on the dial. This seemed to get it started while hot but did not last and might be a coincidence. HELP. Ps. Has new airtex fuel pump added last year when original went from sitting for years. Engine not running hot. Starts on first crank until it gets warm. THANKS

Sean
 
fuel boiling in gas line to carb?

Did you modify the fuel line going to the carb? You may be experiencing fuel cavitation in the line. Is the fuel line sitting too close to the engine manifold? Did you test the new fuel pump for good fuel flow when cranking over the engine? It may be new, but could show poor fuel flow. Do a crank test and pump fuel into a container and watch fuel flow. Though you say it starts right up, I would put this diagnostic to the side for now. It seems that the engine will start again when you let it cool. Try to move the fuel line farther away from the engine block or wrap the fuel line with a product that keeps things cool next to heated surfaces.
 
First, make sure it's not an ignition problem - when it warms up and dies and won't start, check to make sure you're getting spark at the plugs (use a spare plug on one of the wires held against a good ground and see if you've got a spark) - amazing how many suspected carb problems are really ignition-related. Heat-related ignition failures are frequently the coil, condenser, or ignition ballast resistor.

Have the carbs ever been rebuilt? Did you check the hidden filter screen under the screw-attached cover just rearward of the fuel inlet? Do you have the stock glass-bowl filter arrangement with the two steel lines to the carbs? Have you changed that filter element?
 
283 problem

I have a '57 single four barrel that had the same problem and was solved by deleting the dual points and going with an Ignitor electronic setup instead.... it's a neat setup and "hides" well.
 
One more thing to check. This Airtex fuel pump... is it a low pressure replacement type, 6 psi approximately or is it higher pressure? The old WCFB's can't handle higher pressure.
 
Could be carb but my bet is an ignition problem

Could be carb but my bet is an ignition problem. Three things could be going on. Your needle and seat could be sticking, blockage in fuel tank or line (even vapor lock as suggested above) or ignition is intermittent. I had a bad coil that would shut down when hot and work when it cooled down. Most often it is never the carb.

Best of luck
Andy
 
Sounds like a crack coil to me. When the coil heats up and expands, because of a crack, it cause a break in the circuitry. The engine should run again after the coil cools off but only until it heats up again.
 

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