1963 Dead!

[c5vetter]

Folks,

Having some problems with my 1963 Z06. Had the "LADY" out for a fantastic drive in the Maryland/Pennsylvania countryside on Saturday. Drove to a Mason-Dixon picnic and the club decided to "judge" my Z06. It sure was fun listening to everyone as they looked "LADY" over and "scored her". The club scored her 2nd Flight, which is what she scored in a Regional during March. I have made some changes to her and the resultant score reflected the changes. The main culprit keeping "LADY" from Top Flight is due to the fact that I have a November engine in her. This will be rectified when "LADY" undergoes a "body off" here shortly. Just waiting for Tony's Corvette to call.

Now to my problem - "LADY" ran great on Saturday as I mentioned. Tried to start her on Sunday morning to make the drive over to Captitol Raceway - she wouldn't fire! AAARRRGGGHH!
Cranks strong, but she acts like she isn't getting any spark to the plugs? Looking for suggestions on where to start looking. TIA Rick

 

[1KULC7]

These 63's seem to drain the battery. I keep trickle charge on it at all times and never have problem starting. I would suggest its an ignition problem. Take a voltage meter and first run across the battery to get ready. then try simple battery jump.

Could be your alternator is not charging and you where running off battery during your cruise. It seems the armature in the alternators seem to break, and in turn effect the voltage regulator.

To just get the car going you will have to charge the battery, but don't go joy riding and don't use accessories, just get it to the shop and have them check the alternator and Voltage regulator with a volt meter....I bet either the alternator belt or alternator is not charging.

Second is either voltage regulator of the starter celliniod....finally I would look at the distributor cap...or even the starter itself.

Good Luck.

 

[c5vetter]

EBVette,

thanks for the response - my subject was misleading!

The "LADY" cranks fine - just won't fire! In other words, the starter turns over fine. She acts like she isn't possibly getting spark to the spark plugs? Maybe coil? Was just looking for some "gurus" help on tracing.

 

[1KULC7]

Your correct, you are down to coil and distributer, only thing I can think of if its not the coil is the distributer cap. Chech the coil wire too. Sometimes these wear near the leads....

 

[c5vetter]

EBVette,

again, thanks for the response! getting frustrating, as I put all "correctly dated, etc." new plug wires, distrbutor cap, etc. from Lectric Limited on the LADY in April! She's been running strong until this happened. Come on Tony - call and say you are ready to work on the LADY!

 

[youwish2bme]

Got gas???:L :L :L Dave...

 

[WEFs02]

Check inside your distributor cap for moisture.

 

[c5vetter]

C5d,

thanks for the insightful response! a lot of good info in your response.

FYI - the "LADY" is a small tank - she spent most of her life in Switzerland in a temperature-controlled environment. The original owner bought her in East Orange, NJ, titled and licensed her in Virginia for about 4 years and then took her to the Continent. A Canadian hockey player playing hockey on the Continent bought her in August 1998 and took her to Canada. She has a black exterior and red interior and still has European speedometer and odometer - she just turned over 54800 kilometers or roughly 33000 miles.

 

[vettefinderjim]

Bad crancking signal valve on FI unit?

Have one of your fuel injection experts take a look at your cranking signal valve on your fuel injection . It regulates the rich mixture to the unit to start it. You may have to suck on the vacumn line while a friend cranks the engine. Won't fix the problem, but will get it going to get you home. Read up on the crank valve system in the service manual. Last time we all looked at 10 NOS new valves, 6 of them were defective right out of the box. In 64-5, when the # 380 unit came out, they went to a much better electric solenoid start valve that was energized by the key in the start position.

 

[magicv8]

If it's cranking and won't fire, put a volt meter on the distributor side of the coil - should see 12volts jump in and out on the key start position - also a dwell meter will register 32-36 dwell.

I f you have neither guage, a timing light or even an old spark plug laying on the engine can be used to confirm spark.

Tell us if you have spark or not, and we can go from there.

 

[a63vette]

Have you checked your wobble pump drive cable? Always carry a spare and keep it lubed. Your symptoms sound like what happens when they go bad...


EB - I have a yellow top Optima and a quick disconnect on my battery for the last five years and have not had to bother with the battery tenders - highly recommended! Starts like a champ even in frigid NY winter temperatures. This was my solution after dealing with 3 of the date coded original batteries that constantly went bad, while my charging system was perfect.


Good luck,
Jordan
63 L84

 

[c5vetter]

1963 DEAD! UPDATE!

Finally got around to checking the "LADY" out. I definitely have spark to the plugs. I shot some start fluid in the F/I unit and still NO START!

So, I disconnected the wobble cable from the distributor and that end was not rounded. So, I kept pulling on the cable until the cable out of the sheath completely. The cable was kinda "notched" at the end that goes into the fuel meter.

I figured, well that has to be the problem and when I try to put another cable in it will not go in far enough. Looks like a piece of the old cable maybe broke off and I can't get the new cable in far enough!

NOW WHAT!?

 

[a63vette]

Did you unscrew both sheath ends and remove it? after you do that you should be able to see if the hole where the cable goes is blocked/if a piece of the old cable is in there....

Whenever I install a new cable I take the sheath out, place the cable through and gently insert both ends...it is a bit "finicky" to get right..almost takes a bit of finess. I dont think you can get the cable properly seated without loosening both ends of the sheath and removing it. Remember to lube the cable on the way in, it will make it last much longer.


Hmm, maybe it didn't break off...it is a tight fit--- so if you don't have it at the exact spot that it "keys" into it might feel like its blocked...

Good luck,

Jordan

 

[c5vetter]

I don't see how I "unscrew" the end that is connected to the fuel meter (is this correct term?) - disconencted end from distributor with no problem as there is a "screw on" nut - but I don't see anything like that on the other end of the sheath!

What am I missing here!? Do I need to take the meter apart or what?

 

[a63vette]

Rick, hmm..been a while since I took mine off - I hope I didn't send you off on a wild goose chase I thought both ends had the screw on collars off the top of my head, but maybe not. I will have to go take a look at mine but I won't be near her until next week, however I am sure it is correct or one of the other guys can confirm only one collar. Now that I think about it I think I would slide in the pump side, then insert the distributor side and screw the collar on.

Sorry about that..

Jordan

 

[Mad-Mic]

Rick,

i'm sorry to hear that Lady is giving you some problems. get her running and treat her to a "Hi Octane" dinner and all will be well

 

[Mikey1]

FRiend of mine had a similar problem. As a trial fix he took the inner of the cable out and just stuck it in manually. That should do for test purposes.

 

[jerrybramlett]

Rick -

Please call me today. My shop/home number is (251) 478-4003.

If the fuel injection was the problem, your engine should have at least fired a little with the spray of starting ether into the air meter. I've seen engines run on periodic shots of ether with no gasoline line hooked to the fuel injection at all.

I can walk you through some further tests of the ignition system. I'd also like to hear more about the tests you've run so far.

From your description that the car was running fine previously, I doubt there is anything seriously wrong with it now.

Jerry