1964/65 Coupe Rear Blower Motor info

[1964*Coupe]

Hey all,
I've had my 64 Vette Coupe for 25 years, which was stored for 22 years because I was in the military and contantly stationed on ships . Now, I have the desire/funds to finally recondition it. (Plus a 15 year son that needs to get his hands dirty). :Twist

About 20 years ago I read in "Corvette World" magazine about an error when GM made the wiring for the rear blower motor. Two wires should have been crossed to allow the rear blower to have all three speed, instead of one. I have asked different Corvette wiring suppliers about this and each said they didn't know what I was talking about. I send them a fax copy of article and they always respond with "I didn't know that".
I have the article scanned in Word and will send it as an attachment to anyone who wants it (as long as you promise not to respond with "I didn't know that" after you read it). ha-ha.
Now my question, has anyone ever done this? Does it work? Why would you want 3 speeds? Why not just have it on full blast?
I would have sent the article as an attachment here, but I'm not sure how to do it.
Thanks Craig
bri3032001 atMSN dot com
*** Note: this is a 3 Meg file, make sure your mailbox can handle it ***
If you don't get a response within 2 days, I probably sent it, your mailbox just didn't accept
it.... Just fire me off an email letting me know if you haven't got it.
Also... From what I was told, don't post your email address on this forum. I was told that spammers can somehow get it. Just send me one privately (without posting here)...
Thanks Again Craig

 

[BarryK]

i have a '65 coupe and would love to have the article
thanks!
can you email it to me at Barkim77@comcast.net

Barry

 

[Vetsvette2002]

Craig,

I too would like to read the atricle. Plaease end it to vetsvette2002@yahoo.com

TIA

Don

 

[JohnZ]

I'd like a copy too - thanks!

Snake488@aol.com

 

[pnewt]

i'd like to have a copy of the article also thanks very much paul pnewt50@yahoo.com

 

[allcoupedup]

Since we are on the subject I have a question: how do you operate the blower motor? The cable that runs back to the vent is frozen and I don't see any other switches - is the rear blower motor supposed to operate when you turn on the front blower? If not, how do you control it?
Brian

 

[Ron Miller]

When you pull the cable to operate the vent, it also operates the rear blower motor. Haven't looked at a wiring diagram lately, but I seem to remember that it's also wired in with the heater blower motor which prevents it from running when the heater blower motor is on. Not sure about this last point, though.

rlm

 

[Tom]

Me too please, thanks!!
teppet@aol.com

 

[JohnZ]

Since we are on the subject I have a question: how do you operate the blower motor? The cable that runs back to the vent is frozen and I don't see any other switches - is the rear blower motor supposed to operate when you turn on the front blower? If not, how do you control it?
Brian

The rear vent blower switch is at the blower, below the driver's side of the rear window opening, along with the resistor (like the heater box resistor) that determines its operating speeds. The control cable that operates it looks just like the kickpad vent cables, and is located below the left side of the cluster. You pull the cable out, and the further you pull it, the higher the blower speed (low, medium, high). It was only used on '64-'65 coupes.

The point of the article is that the factory installation is correct and provides all three speeds, but the wiring diagram is wrong, and if a replacement reproduction harness is made to the wiring diagram instead of to an original harness, you won't have three speeds with the reproduction harness without modifying it as shown in the article.

The bowden cable that operates the switch is LONG, and is routed down along the inner rocker, subject to moisture and corrosion, and is frequently frozen in the sheath. I've had several '65 coupes, and had to remove the cable from the car and treat them with penetrant and oil in order to free them up; once that's done, my blowers worked. Also helps to clean and lubricate the cam arrangement on the blower switch lever at the blower.

 

[markiemyster]

How do you get access to the rear blower?
Do you have to remove the carpet?
I've looked underneath in the wheel well and see nothing.
Where does the blower blow out? I see no vent except the outside vent?
Does it blow fresh air in or suck the air in the car out?
Is it hard to replace the blower cable with body on without pulling everything apart? :confused
:confused :confused :confused :confused

 

[BarryK]

I'm about to replace the blower cable myself.........

1. the rear blower is in the very rear left hand side of the rear compartment. If you remove the rear left side panel you will see it.

2. you don't have to "remove" the carpet, just lift it out of the way to get to the wiring channel that runs along the door sill.
To remove the cable you need to remove both the left rear panel, left rear quarter panel, left side door sill plate to lift up the carpet, and the left front kick panel.
After removing the door sill plate to move the carpet aside there is a wiring chanel with a cover over it, remove the cover than unscrew the 2 screws holding the blower cable/control knob mounting plate from the dash assembly. The cable snakes down from the mounting postion along by the fuse box, and than follows along the wiring channel to the back of the car to the blower motor.

3. The only thing that you should see from outside underneath the car is the opening from the blower assembly that allows the air out

4. It is supposed to suck out hot air that collects in the rear compartment of the car because of that big rear window (major greenhouse effect in there, especially in cars with Black interiors like mine!)

5. There is no reason to have to pull the body off the car to replace this cable!!!
I am NO mechanic at all any really there are very few things I can actually work on myself on the car because of that but this is a very easy job to do. It's just unscrewing and removing a few interior panels to get access.
I just need to get a new cable to do the job but I went through these steps already just to see how the cable was run. Honestly, the hardest part of the job was was fitting myself into the back to reach in to remove the rear panel. I'm 6'2" so it gets a bit tight for me cramped up in that rear compartment. When I get the cable and go through this again i'll remove the drivers seat (only 2 bolts to remove) to allow more room for ME to work in, plus it will allow me to pust the carpet out of the way a little more along the door sill to get better access to the wiring channel.

I hope this helps you!


Barry

 

[DZVette]

Craig

My reconditioned rear blower will go back in shortly as I work thru the installation of new carpets. I'd like to receive a copy of that article.

Send to:
d-zuberer@tamu.edu

Thanks!
DZ

 

[DZVette]

"The control cable that operates it looks just like the kickpad vent cables, and is located below the left side of the cluster. You pull the cable out, and the further you pull it, the higher the blower speed (low, medium, high). It was only used on '64-'65 coupes."

Hi John,

Got a question about the rear vent cable position. My 65 AIM (C60 E7) shows both cables for the kick-panel vent and the rear blower vent on the right side of the dash with the rear cable mounted closest to the radio side panel. The owners manual however, says the cable for the rear blower is "located next to the left air vent control". Is the AIM incorrecr about cable positioning? Any insight is always appreciated!

Thanks

Dave Z

 

[BarryK]

DZVette

if it helps, mine is located next to the left air vent control.

Barry

 

[JohnZ]

Correct - there are two different cables and two different locations. The non-A/C cars have a shorter cable, located below and between the headlight and wiper switches, and A/C cars use a longer cable located below the ignition switch, where yours is.

Zip, LICS, and Corvette Central are the only suppliers I'm aware of that have the control cables, and they're $100-$140; take care of the ones you have!

 

[BarryK]

John

my cable is frozen I was going to order a new one.
Before I do that, what do you think my chances are of getting it to unfreeze itself by letting it soak in a tub of something like WD40. I'm just not sure how well any solution will get inside the outer sleeve to get at the cable itself to try to unfreeze it.

Barry

 

[JohnZ]

WD-40 is not a great lubricant/penetrant; its primary purpose is to displace water. I'd treat it with a good penetrant like PB Blaster, Kroil, or Liquid Wrench to get it moving again, then lube it with thin machine oil (like sewing machine oil) to keep it that way.

 

[BarryK]

John

Thanks!
I'll try that - hopefully i'll get lucky and not have to spend $120 on a cable

Barry

 

[DZVette]

Thanks John. The cable in my car works great but I had to repair the tube part on the dash end. It had separated from the casting. Had to repair the switch on the blower unit also. If I can get that brown wire hooked up to the switch in the dash I think the unit will work OK. It looks like problems in the old unit may have been the cause of some "unique" harness repair that we found. The new rear harness works fine. BTW the tips you gave me quite a while back worked well for the tail and backup light replacement!

Thanks again!

Dave Z

 

[Jack44]

Boy...I've got to be grateful that mine's run perfectly since I bought it 7 years ago.......