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1967 Corvette Convertible Question

bobmanx

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 29, 2002
Messages
169
Location
Southern Calif.
Corvette
1967 White Convert. 327/350hp, 4 spd, with A/C
Hello all, New here and to Corvettes. It appears that I am now the new owner of a 1967 Corvette Convertible, with the followingoptions: 327/350 hp, 4 spd, Factory AC, Posi rearend, and a few other options. My question is, and I appologize for my lack of Corvette Knowledge, where is the battery supposed to be located on this year/optioned car. Car is located a days drive from me and I only had about 10 min. to look it over before family matters took over and was not able to spend more time appraising the situation and condition. Car has been in storage for approx. three plus years, I will be the second owner and I DO Want to keep it as close to factory as reasonable. I plan on trailering it home and spending a lot of time looking and reading about it prior to getting it back to the street. It appears to be complete and from discussions with the owner it was all original except or a new gas tank, SS brake calipers, and I believe a frame replacement years ago, all professionaly done as the owner was not a automotive mechanically inclined person. I have found all the receipts for work on the car and any documents that were saved since new. but want to know more and the books that I have parused have been short on indepth info. Does any one make a "Good" manual on the 1967? Clymers is a joke! Any help would be appreciated, and thanks for the time spent reading this.
Bob
 
Welcome Bob

Hi Bob and welcome to the Corvette Action Center. Also a big welcome to Corvetting. The fun has just begun.

Your battery is located inside the right front fender to the rear of the right front tire. Just open the hood and look between the engine and the fender back towards the firewall. Not the easiest place to get at but all '53 -'67s were there.

Sounds like a real nice Corvette with the right options. I'm a little curious as to the frame change though. Do you know the reason?

As for manuals the 2 that you should get first are both copies of the original GM manuals. The 1967 Chassis Service manual is the same one used at the Chevy dealers and will guide you through about anything chassis and body related you can think of. The other is the 1967 Corvette Assembly Instruction Manual. Commonly called the AIM. This is the printed instructions that assembly line workers used to assemble your car at the St Louis factory. Very usefull to show you how things go together or back together after you take something apart.

They are both available through the NCRS (National Corvette Restorers Society) Bookstore at www.ncrs.org . They also sell many other books that are sure to be of interest to you. I would also suggest a membership in the NCRS. The Restorer Magazine and the Driveline Newsletter are worth the price of admission alone.

Hope you enjoy your Corvette,
Tom
 
Thanks Tom, I'm sure the fun has just begun! As for the frame replacement, I have no clue as to why, and since I cant ask my uncle, (deceased) all I can go by is the stack of paperwork that he saved about his Corvette. No one else in the family has a clue. It was done along time ago so I'm sure that the shop, if still in business would not remember why. About all that I remember is a discussion that I had with him a few years back and he mentioned the frame replacement, Gas tank replacement and the switch to the SS calipers. He was concerned that it wasnt "Factory" any more. We talked about how the car was made to be driven and not just put in the garage to be dusted once a year. He was very carefull to keep it as close to original as possible. He even told me that since he could not get leaded gas anymore that he had figured out how much lead substitute to add for each gallon of gas he added to the tank whenever he did take it out, and kept a log of each fill up and the additive he used. The car is not "pristine" as it has the original paint and interior, Saddle Tan, but it appears to be "unmolested" and also has the factory hard top that has been tucked away in his house with a cover over it. I'm sure that I will be here very often asking more questions. Thanks for the battery info, since it was out of the car, that might explain why I didnt find it in the engine compartment. As I said I only got a quick look to check it out and now for all the fun that you mentioned......
Thanks, Bob
 
Thanks everyone, nice to find out that there are lots of people that are willing to take the time to answer questions for a Corvette virgin. I'm sure that there will be more questions and posts in the future. I'm looking forward to being able to spend some time learning and wrenching on this 1967 convert. I dont know why it was put into storage mode about three years ago but I'm sure with the right knowledge and patience it can once again be crusin the streets as it was years before. As mentioned in a prior post it is just being sorted out, long distance at the moment, but so far what I have managed to figure out is that it came with 327/350hp, shoulder belts, black aux. hard top, A/C, posi rear, power brakes, Rally style wheels, M20 4 spd, telescopic steering, tinted glass all windows, ermine white with white soft top, with tan interior. It looks original and at the moment has a protective cover on it while it sits insured in a locked alarmed garage. Any suggestions on awakening it from its long nap? Again thanks for all the answers and the help so far, never having had a American Sports Car, this should be done correctly and driven to be enjoyed!
Thanks, Bob
 
Bob - Cars with A/C have the battery on the driver's side, located behind an access panel at the rear of the inner fender; seven screws must be removed to get the access panel off, and it's a lot easier if you remove the left front wheel first. If it's been sitting for three years, the gas is probably pretty "flat", and it's probably long-since evaporated from the float bowls; I'd siphon out the tank (no drain plug) and fill it with fresh fuel, after checking the condition of the inside of the bottom of the tank with a flashlight to check for corrosion, scale, etc., and I'd disconnect the hose from the main line to the fuel pump (rubber hose, spring clamp) to drain the main line too (gravity will drain it, as it's lower than the bottom of the tank). Use a small syringe to fill the float bowls with fresh gas through the vent tubes in the air horn.

If you have access to tools where it's parked, I'd pull the distributor and use an electric drill and oil pump prime tool to pre-oil it and re-install the distributor; if not, pull the coil wire and crank it until you see oil pressure before you start it. Check tire pressure, make sure you have brakes, check brake fluid level in the master cylinder, check coolant level in the expansion tank, check the oil, and make sure the parking brake hasn't frozen if it was applied. This will get you going enough to drive it. The clock has run out on the coolant and brake fluid, so the coolant will need to be drained and re-filled, and the brake fluid will need to be flushed and the system bled (use a baster to take the old fluid out of the master cylinder first and refill with fresh fluid before you start to flush/bleed it). Sounds like a great car - enjoy it! :Steer
 
Thanks John,

I forgot all about the battery switching sides on A/C cars. I've never had an A/C midyear. It sure does sound like a sweet ride though.

Tom
 
Thanks for the info John, That would explain the different battery support pics in the Corvette Central Catalog. (recomended suppliers, any suggestions good or bad would be helpfull) I was wondering why and where to look for the battery door. The orig. driver's manual didnt say where to look, and none of the other books I have looked in gave any clues. The only off the shelf "manual" that I have found locally was a "Chilton" 63 to 82 Corvette and all it covers is very basic stuff. The whole manual is so generic it could be used on any car. If I could have looked at it before I bought it, I wouldnt have bought it. (Any body want a manual for a friends Yugo? LOL) So I will need to get "Real Manuals" as Tom Suggested in his first reply. John the suggestions that you gave for awakening the Corvette were in line with my thoughts. Have done this before but not on a Corvette. (old British and German) It presents a series of logistical problems, like carrying tools on a plane, (wouldnt airport security like that?) or purchase some there. My thoughts were to trailer it home and then have the proper tools and time to revive it correctly, and check things out and replace fluids, one item at a time. Thanks for all the info and enthusiasim. I realize that this doesnt happen every day, finding a unmolested 67 convert hiding in a garage somewhere, and becoming its second owner in 35 years. As close as I can track it has 139,000 miles on it. It wasnt a daily driver, but got some use here and there, approx 4,000 a year. so it should take kindly to being on the street again, after all is checked, flushed, cleaned, refilled, replaced, waxed, and had attention given to it. Its not a "show car" its a very clean "driver" and can only get better as it proceedes closer to reaching the blacktop again.
Thanks again, Bob
 
Thanks Tom and John, Im keeping my fingers crossed that it will be a nice ride. I think when all is done and working, a trip up PCH, Highway 1 is in order. Of course with the top down. John, how long have you owned your convertible, any thing I should look for or at that are peculiar to a 67 convert. like places they might have problems or are prone to water damage etc? Just curious.
Thanks Bob
 
Bob
Did the unclewho owned the car before you and replaced the gas tank, think of rmoving the tank sticker for themself and for the future reference? This will tell you what are the actual options and some other very important restoration information.

Most C2 are prone to rust in the frame kick-up area by the rear wheels and around the windshield in the frame.

These are a real blast to drive and love the corners as much as any limey 2 seater (I've had a few as well as a porsche 911t). I bought this vette in 1984 instead of a 67 ferrari for only $13k. That was a HUGE financial mistake in not purchasing. But that's another tale...

Don
 
Bob...

Brakes, Brakes, Brakes...

If this car hasbeen sitting around for three years there is a good chance the all the brake calipers may have siezed up...When I bought my '65 the guy said he rarely drove it...I had to replace all the disc brakes...So be careful if you're going to drive Highway one...
 
Trailering it home is definitely the best avenue, IMO (didn't know it was that far away from you) - road trips in a car that's been sitting for three years aren't usually a fun experience. Get it on the trailer, then get it home where you can do the "revival" procedure at your leisure. I've been restoring Corvettes as a hobby for decades (six body-offs so far), and I've always used Corvette Central, Long Island, Dr. Rebuild, and Paragon as my primary suppliers. :Steer
 
John, I have the original window sticker, as I mentioned before I found a LARGE envelope with "67 Vette" written on it in the archives at my uncles house. it has all the paperwork from the time he ordered it till he parked it in the garage. every receipt, service record, etc.... found the drivers manual in the glove box in the plastic holder with all the warranty stuff included also. there was also a hand written log of each gas stop, including gals, price and mileage. there even was a section where he started adding lead substitute with each gallon so the unleaded would not burn the valves. Next trip will look for the tag on the tank, would that have different info that the window sticker does not list? I can remember several discussions as to how he tried to keep it original, except for things like calipers, gas tank etc, and was usually serviced at the local Chevy dealer (even oil changes). When I was giving it the 10 min look, I opened the hood and it has the alum. corvette valve covers, it did not appear to be dripping any fluids on the garage floor, oil in the 327 was clean, E brake was not in the "brake " position, trans was in neutral and there were bricks in front and behind each wheel to keep it from moving if pushed. I did not try the pedals, soft top and windows (rear soft plastic was yellowed) were all up and the car was locked. I found the keys after a written clue was found in the desk drawer, thats how I got to check out the interior. found the hard top. did not see any gas in the tank (small Maglight flashlight) looked silver colored, not like varnish in the bottom. Gauge read empty, but did not know if it would read without battery power. Tires are not flat but appear to be old and cracking from age, since its inside and covered should not be sun rot. With the short inspection time Im sure there are things I missed (like jack, spare). I think it was more like opening a time capsule, and being stunned at what I found. I took about thirty pics of the car just in case (theft, fire, act of god, etc) so that I could prove what was sitting there under the cover if I had to. Ive played the insurance screwage game before and without proof you are screwed. It appears that it will be a month or two until I can trailer it home, after several trips to clear out the house of "stuff" (goodwill, salvation army, used book stores, etc.....) and decide which stuff to transport to Calif. It will require a decent sized "Penske" type truck that will be able to drag a auto trailer. but what the hell, it wont be the first auto I've dragged home........ this whole thing is kind of like finding the Holly Grail. I have found old cars before but not like this. Unless there is something wrong some where, its like it was parked yesterday out of gas and with a dead battery. There even appears to be "new boxed Holley Carb", new wipers sitting on the workbench , unopened, and a pair of NOS rally wheels ( never had tires mounted on them) that were in a box that he had moved from his last residence. We shall see what other parts are in the garage for the Corvette. Thanks for any and all info, ideas, help and suggestions, this is all sort of weird and compelling at the same time.
Thanks Bob
 
Vetsvette2002 and Jack44, I dont know what the gas tank tag should look like. he replaced the tank because the original developed a leak. would the tag look like a window sticker? if so it might be in the receipts envelope, not sure. The car will not see PCH or Highway 1 till it has been checked, tested, and functions as it should. Highway 1 is not the place to be used as a testing ground, too far of a drop to the water! it will be a while till it gets a chance to even try rolling on flat level blacktop, let alone the slalom course that they laid out along the northern Calif. coast. LOL I've driven Highway 1 before and had to straighten the car afterwards, so I promise not to just put a battery and gas in it and hit the coast! Picked up a copy of the "Corvette Restoration Guide 63 - 67" by Richard Newton. Started reading about all the "fun" I will be having, and I'm sure he forgot some parts that I will have to enjoy as I step in them and others on this board advise me of. LOL But it sounds very "do able" . I will also check for rust in the areas that people have mentioned (next visit). lol
I will allow time to look closer! and post more info as I discover it.
Thanks Bob
 
Sounds like a great adventure, a sequel to the "barn stories" we B.S. about! If the gas tank was replaced, the "tank sticker" (which says "Corvette Order Copy" at the top) may have been pitched along with the old tank, or it MAY have been saved and added to the documentation you've got.

I'd also recommend you buy "The Complete Corvette Restoration & Technical Guide", Vol. II (1963-67), by Noland Adams; the finest piece of mid-year Corvette reference work ever printed. If you can't find it at your local Borders or Barnes & Noble, you can get it direct from Noland at nolandadams@d-web.com. Also, if you're interested in determining how much of the car is truly original, you should get the NCRS "1967 Corvette Technical Information Manual & Judging Guide", available from the NCRS on-line store at www.ncrs.org. This will literally take you through every part in the car and describe what it looked like when it was built (this book is the standard against which the car would be judged by NCRS, and is the originality "bible"). Have fun!
:beer
 
Sounds like the find of a lifetime. About all I can add now is that I urge you to follow in your uncles footsteps and preserve the car in it's original unrestored state as musch as possible... And of course, drive it and enjoy it.

Tom
 
JohnZ and Tom, after reading your posts I went for another look in the "Vette" folder that My uncle kept. I found the "gas tank" tag, it had not been thrown away. It was there, a little worse for wear, but there! It lists everything thats on the window sticker plus, a neat little screw-up. Across the second row, it lists "Date Received" as 12-09-66, and the "Exp Date of Prod" as 01-20-66. It seems that the factory also has the same "problem" of year changes at the beginning of a new calender year just like the rest of us mortals.LOL With a "Model" listed as 19467 Corvette Convert. The "Protect-O-Plate lists the "Delivery Date as 1-16-67 and the first "Service" at the dealer in the warranty book is listed as 6-23-67. So it appears that it was built approx. the end of Dec. 1966 and shipped to the Dealer in the beginning of Jan. 1967 . Corvettes apparently did not sit at the factory. Is there a way to determine what day it was built from any of the normal paperwork, or would one have to contact the factory for that info? I suppose it would be stamped on the ID tags in the car, but its over 500 miles from here at the moment. Would they be under the dash on the passenger side? So far it appears that my uncle kept any documentation that came with the car, even when parts were replaced, like the gas tank. Having been on the end of several "barn" stories that never panned out, or were not where some one "remembered them" to be waiting to be discovered, I feel like this is very strange. And I thank those who are asking questions and helping with info about what to look for or check/fix to get this car back to the streets. All is appreciated as being VERY NEW to Corvettes there is a learning curve. And yes Factory Stock is BEST, where practical (tires etc), So It will be kept that way. But it Will be driven and enjoyed! Any thing else (documents) that I should look for?
Thanks Bob
 
Bob,

GREAT FIND !!! Is it possible to see and read the Dealer's name and number and the zone number?

In going through th erecords have you been able to determine why the frame was replaced?

Abirthday calculator can be found at the Wisconsin NCRS site.
try www.ncrswi.bizland.com/

The frame is also stamped with the serial number, left side rail above the rear wheel. You may need a small mirror and a bright flashlight to read it (backwards).

Take your time with it and ejoy the heck out of it.

Don
:Steer
 
The body build date code is found just to the left of the word "Detroit" on the aluminum trim tag next to the VIN plate below the glove box; it will be a letter (month) and two numbers (day). For '67, "D" is November, "E" is December, etc.

For a St. Louis-built body ("S" in front of the body number on the trim tag), the body build date will generally be a day or two prior to the day it actually came off the line; for an A.O. Smith-built body ("A" in front of the body number), the build date code will usually be two or three weeks ahead of the day it actually came off the line - A.O. Smith bodies were built in Ionia, Michigan and were shipped to St. Louis by rail. The link Don posted to the Wisconsin NCRS site will take you to the calculator for actual off-the-line date, which is usually accurate to within a couple of days.

There are NO factory records still in existence for any St. Louis-built Corvette, so the documentation you have now is VERY valuable paperwork, and is the ONLY paperwork that will authenticate the car - most C2 owners would give their eyeteeth for the kind of documentation you have. :BOW
 

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