1975 gas line to tank access

[Bill75]

I recently purchased a 75 that has had a splice in the passenger side gas and return lines in the wheel-well and they're leaking. I want to replace the lines to the tank but can't figure out how to access the tank fittings, they aren't visible from the wheel well. I removed the spare and the carrier and can see the tank but no access to the fittings. Do I have to remove the rear bumper and the metal shield?? Books are on the way but it's driving me crazy!!

Thanks in advance for any advice.

 

[CQRT]

Drop the tank

Bill:

The only way I know how to do it is to drain the tank, then drop it out to be able to access the fittings on the top. While you're at it, you way want to consider having the tank cleaned- then paint the exterior before re-installing with new fittings and lines.

The added benefit is that your car's build sheet/MSO may still be up on top of the tank if the spilled fuel hasn't eaten it up.

Perhaps other on the board have a better method-- but it's the only way I know. Happy New Year to all-- and thanks for all the great info this board provides!!
CQRT in AZ

 

[Bill75]

Drop Tank

Hi CQRT,

OK on dropping the tank, but the lines exiting the top of the frame that go to the tank are steel. How can the tank be dropped unless the lines are unhooked, they'll break won't they? Conversly, how can the tank be reinstalled and the lines attached after it's installed???

Thanks for the reply.

Bill

 

[resto75]

Try taking out the gas filler door on top of the back deck and look in there with a flashlite. I know the sending unit is accessed thru there but maybe not the gas line.

 

[Bill75]

Gas line

OK on the filler. I did and I can see a rubber line attached to the tank. Impossible to even touch, but I can see it. So I guess when the tank is dropped the rubber hose flexes and prevents the line from breaking. To bad they didn't put the rubber hose to steel line connection in an accessable place.

Thanks Bill

 

[KenSny]

I just dropped my tank this week to remove the internal bladder. You need to either disconnect the 2 rubber lines that run to the steel lines that go to the fuel pump - or cut them and replace when you get it all out. Cutting them before dropping the tank all the way out is the best way - just to to an auto parts store to replace them. By now they are probably getting brittle.....

Do the same on the driver's side for the vapor canister vent line.

I had to remove both rear mufflers in order to get the tank out. You can probably fiddle around and grunt and groan without removing them, but it was a heck of a lot easier to get them out of the way.

 

[Canuck]

Hey everybodys already said what they had to say. My two cents worth would be to replace everthing while your at it. Since you have to take the tank out anyway to access the fittings you may as well paint the tank, check the interior of the tank(may be water inside) clean it out properly. Make the the gas guage is in good condition. Definetly replace the rubber lines. Also replace the steel lines up to the front fuel pump. Replace those rubber hoses also at the front. Its a lot of work, but since you HAVE TO do half of it to get the tank out you may as well do everthing and do the job right. Then you'll have nothing to worry about in the future. That's my 2 cents.


Tom

 

[KenSny]

Forget about replacing the steel lines unless they are already leaking. These are run inside the frame and unless you raise the body it's a MAJOR PITA. LOTS OF POST ON THIS. It can be done without raising the body but it is it takes a lot of patience and wiggling to even get them close.....definitly not for the weak of heart.

What I will suggest is that when you get the tank out, replace the little strainer sock on the pickup tube (about $10). Take a look at the bladder, if it looks like it's bulging away from the walls then pull it out. LOTS OF POSTS ON THIS ALSO.

 

[Paul Borowski]

Forget about replacing the steel lines unless they are already leaking. These are run inside the frame and unless you raise the body it's a MAJOR PITA. LOTS OF POST ON THIS. It can be done without raising the body but it is it takes a lot of patience and wiggling to even get them close.....definitly not for the weak of heart.

What I will suggest is that when you get the tank out, replace the little strainer sock on the pickup tube (about $10). Take a look at the bladder, if it looks like it's bulging away from the walls then pull it out. LOTS OF POSTS ON THIS ALSO.

I just ran new one piece pre-bent lines WITHOUT lifting the body. DO NOT TRY THIS AT HOME. I would never recommend doing this again with prebent lines. I had to virtually "unbend" the lines, then carefully shape and bend as I inched it into place. I believe this is only possible with an automatic car which has the removable crossmember, which too is easier and more forgiving to work with. I don't believe it's possible on a manual car. My car is also two feet off of the ground which helped. I also dropped my tank and discarded that "shield". If I had to do the same job again, I would have gotten a 25' reel of steel tubing of 3/8" and 1/4", carefully bending as you go and feed it up and over the right rear dogleg. I wish I had'nt spent the $105 on the lines, but I had received them form Classic Tube.

 

[Bill75]

Boy, am I glad I asked a question. Lots of very valuable tips and information, and I almost bought some prebent lines last week too. (4 speed tranny also!!!).

Thank you all very much for taking the time to respond, I hope I'm able to return the favor some time.

Best wishes,

Bill