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1976 Battery Drain

Cm6248

Member
Joined
Jul 26, 2015
Messages
5
Location
Florida
Hello all,

I am new to these forums and am hoping to find a guru so that I may pick their brains. I am currently working on a project car for a friend The car is a 1976 Stingray L48. I have ran into an issue that I may need help understanding. I have traced a current drain to the +12V switched terminal at the alternator. I has a constant +12V applied to it at all times and is draining the battery overnight. The car has an aftermarket stereo, subwoofers and amp, and an aftermarket alarm. All of the radio wiring reads correctly with a meter. I removed the subwoofers and amplifier and all associated wiring. The battery drain is still present. I disconnected the two wire harness that attaches to the alternator. The wire for pin 2 at the alternator has a constant 12V. By leaving this this connector disconnected the battery holds a charge and there is no more current drawn from the battery. I disconnected the firewall connector and read from the alternator connector (pin 2) to it's corresponding pin at the firewall connector (engine side) and continuity is good and there is no voltage present. I then read at the firewall (body side) to the corresponding mating pin and there was 12V. I then disconnected the ignition switch and there was still 12V at the firewall (body side). From here there isn't much I can do without a wiring schematic. If anyone either has a good schematic or a link to a good schematic I would really appreciate it. If anyone has any useful insight into this issue it would be greatly appreciated. Much thanks in advance.
 
Hello all,

I am new to these forums and am hoping to find a guru so that I may pick their brains. I am currently working on a project car for a friend The car is a 1976 Stingray L48. I have ran into an issue that I may need help understanding. I have traced a current drain to the +12V switched terminal at the alternator. I has a constant +12V applied to it at all times and is draining the battery overnight. The car has an aftermarket stereo, subwoofers and amp, and an aftermarket alarm. All of the radio wiring reads correctly with a meter. I removed the subwoofers and amplifier and all associated wiring. The battery drain is still present. I disconnected the two wire harness that attaches to the alternator. The wire for pin 2 at the alternator has a constant 12V. By leaving this this connector disconnected the battery holds a charge and there is no more current drawn from the battery. I disconnected the firewall connector and read from the alternator connector (pin 2) to it's corresponding pin at the firewall connector (engine side) and continuity is good and there is no voltage present. I then read at the firewall (body side) to the corresponding mating pin and there was 12V. I then disconnected the ignition switch and there was still 12V at the firewall (body side). From here there isn't much I can do without a wiring schematic. If anyone either has a good schematic or a link to a good schematic I would really appreciate it. If anyone has any useful insight into this issue it would be greatly appreciated. Much thanks in advance.
Didn't find one for a 76, but checked the '75, and '77. from what i could see the no2 wire (red) on the alternator is a permanent 12v.
that being the case the problem is in the alternator. Unless you meant you have 12V on the brown wire?
 
Yes, sorry, I should have mentioned that it is the brown wire that has a constant +12V.


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Yup, you should have! :D :L

Not sure if you read the entire original post, but useful insight is appreciated.

Stating what someone should have done after that very person had already recognized and stated their own fault in the matter is not useful at all.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Not sure if you read the entire original post, but useful insight is appreciated.

Stating what someone should have done after that very person had already recognized and stated their own fault in the matter is not useful at all.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Don't worry i didn't mean anything by it. I just saw the info missing and than I was glad when I saw your comment, made me laugh :)

I was going to give the same reply as Antz. Cheers :)
 
The owner is ordering a schematic so that I can finish shooting this gripe. Should be good to go in no time once I get the schematics.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
The brown wire changes to a brown white once it goes through the fire wall. It then connects to the ignition switch and should only be hot in run and acc. Make sure the key isn't rotated back past off into the acc position. (the key shouldn't be removable if you have, but can be if the switch needs adjusting)
Having the schematic certainly would help:thumb
 

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