Help! 1980 Corvette won't start

[Kevin]

My car left me stranded today. Drove it to work and it was running fine. Left about a half hour later, got about a block from the office and was sitting at a red light waiting when it quit like the key had been turned off and would not restart. Cranks great, but no start. I poured some fuel in the carb tonight, but it doesn't even kick, so I'm thinking no spark. Checked the fuses, cleaned the distributor cap and rotor, looked for any disconnected vacuum lines...nothing. Didn't have the tools with me to pull a plug and check for spark. Has anyone ever heard of this or have any ideas? What else should I check? Almost has to be something simple, but what could this be? :confused

 

[6880 Mike]

Check the coil and contact. Based on what you describe, sounds electrical and not mechanical.

 

[Kevin]

Thanks for your help. I replaced the coil, and the cap and rotor while I was at it, and was able to narrow it down to the ignition module when it still would not fire. Replaced that and it fired right up. Now, however, I have a pinstream fuel leak coming from the line right down on top of the intake - not good. I am told that brake line can be purchased at auto parts stores to replace this line (steel), but that pre-bent ones are not available and I will have to bend my own. Anyone have any experience or recommendations with replacing this line? It was 80 degrees here in Anchorage yesterday and I sure would like to get my car back on the road to enjoy!

 

[KANE]

Thanks for your help. I replaced the coil, and the cap and rotor while I was at it, and was able to narrow it down to the ignition module when it still would not fire. Replaced that and it fired right up. Now, however, I have a pinstream fuel leak coming from the line right down on top of the intake - not good. I am told that brake line can be purchased at auto parts stores to replace this line (steel), but that pre-bent ones are not available and I will have to bend my own. Anyone have any experience or recommendations with replacing this line? It was 80 degrees here in Anchorage yesterday and I sure would like to get my car back on the road to enjoy!

Yes- you can use 3/8 brake line. You'll need to get a tube bender to bend it into the right shape. It won't be factory- but it will work just fine.


You may also want to invest in a flare kit or borrow one so that you can make the bump (not sure what that is called) where the fuel line slips over the tube.


All the best-

 

[Vettehead Mikey]

Your local Chev dealer can't get you one Fed Exd overnight? I wouldn't monkey around with brake lines.

 

[KANE]

Your local Chev dealer can't get you one Fed Exd overnight? I wouldn't monkey around with brake lines.

Brake lines- I agree. However...

I have a pinstream fuel leak coming from the line right down on top of the intake - not good. I am told that brake line can be purchased at auto parts stores to replace this line (steel),

He's talking about using steel brake line as fuel line.

 

[Kevin]

Honestly, I haven't checked with the dealer yet. I have a very knowledgable Carquest manager who I have bought parts from for years, and she tells me that this is pretty common practice - unless of course I want to go get one through the dealer. I'm not trying to cheap it as I don't do things that way, but I figured this was a more reasonable (and faster) SAFE repair, and I've never dealt much with fuel lines other than moving them to change fuel filters, so I took this advice at face value. However, this is my first Corvette and I'm still learning about it, and there are some folks with deep knowledge on this site, so if I should go another way, I'm listening...

 

[Kevin]

Yes- you can use 3/8 brake line. You'll need to get a tube bender to bend it into the right shape. It won't be factory- but it will work just fine.


You may also want to invest in a flare kit or borrow one so that you can make the bump (not sure what that is called) where the fuel line slips over the tube.


All the best-

You may also want to invest in a flare kit or borrow one so that you can make the bump (not sure what that is called) where the fuel line slips over the tube.

Kane I'm still trying to picture the bump you are referring to, and what tube the fuel line would need to slip over.

 

[KANE]

Kane I'm still trying to picture the bump you are referring to, and what tube the fuel line would need to slip over.

No problem.

Let's make sure we are thinking the same part here...

The line you are speaking of is the one that runs from the fuel pump to the carb, right?

If so- then you have a couple of options. You could cut the original line that comes from the pump up to the carb somewhere before the leak. Then, you'd run a new section of tube from the carb to where you have the cut. Then, you'd use rubber line (with clamps) to complete the union of the old line to the new line. I usually create an expanson that goes around the on steel fuel lines right before they terminate (also called a barb). This way, when I tighten the hoses over the top they don't slip off as easily.

Then... you go out and order the correct replacement line. This way, you have the ability to drive the car while you are waiting on parts.

If you want someone to talk ou through it... send me a PM.

I wrote this tech article on TPI swaps... so I've got some knowledge of how to do custom work to fuel lines-
http://www.corvetteactioncenter.com...ngs-worked-well-me-over-years.html#post920605

 

[Vettehead Mikey]

Here's the part you need at Corvette Central, p/n 353226. I'm sure any of the supporting vendors would carry this.

http://www.parts123.com/parts123/yb.dll?Parta~ShowPicTxt~Z5Z5Z50000050g~Z5Z5Z5PEP2~Z5Z5Z52

Please don't splice in rubber lines- this is a fire hazard. hnoes

 

[Kevin]

Yes, this is the section that needs replacing. As I was troubleshooting my no start situation earlier, I figured changing the fuel filter was a good thing to do, but when I tried to loosen the fuel line the threads on the larger nut (retaining the filter) broke instead and my line started to twist. I caught it before it went very far and untwisted it, but it went far enough to cause the leak. I understand now - makes sense to me and I don't know why I didn't think of that as a temporary repair while securing exact replacement parts.

Mikey - educate me - why do you say splicing is a fire hazard? You guys are great, and I'm interested in the different takes. It seems like this would work short-term and be reasonably safe. Although a small leak, it is leaking directly above the intake about 2-3" back from the end of the line, and I do love my car...

 

[killain]

Yes- you can use 3/8 brake line. You'll need to get a tube bender to bend it into the right shape. It won't be factory- but it will work just fine.


You may also want to invest in a flare kit or borrow one so that you can make the bump (not sure what that is called) where the fuel line slips over the tube.


All the best-

Make sure you buy a tube line bender. It's a small tool that's easy to use just go slow while making a bend and decide what to bend before you bend it, and use a flair kit to make sure there's no leaks. You should be able to make a damn near corbon copy with the right tools. Anytime you put a rubber splice in line on a steel fuel line there's no flange or ribbes to prevent leaks at the splice. The filter housing is a very leak prone part. I'd get a new fuel filter housing and use teflon plumbers tape or permatex gasoline resistant sealent at the fittings so a leak and disassembly in the future won;t be another repeat of this problem. Good luck.

 

[Vettehead Mikey]

Mikey - educate me - why do you say splicing is a fire hazard? It seems like this would work short-term and be reasonably safe. .

Killain has covered it well- and as you've stated it's only 'reasonably safe'. The fuel line is under pressure- possibly 6-7 psi at times- there is too much chance that the hose could slip off the tube and spray the engine with fuel.

Been there done that, got lucky.

 

[Phill]

If you have a stock set up and are in no need to get the car on the road right away the original pre bent lfuel ine is the way to go.

 

[Kevin]

That's the feeling I'm getting too...bending it myself sounds like a great opportunity to screw something up and cost myself more time, money, and frustration. My setup is completely stock, so I think I will order the new OEM line. I sincerely appreciate everyone's advice and comments. When I get this situation resolved, I'll bug you all with my inoperative radio antenna/mystery wires, squeaky brakes, oil leak, and turn signal questions.

 

[Phill]

if i remember correctly theres an inline fuel filter thats at the connection at the carb might as well replace that while your there and also the fuel hoses at the fuel pump.

 

[73shark]

If the '80 still uses the Qjet w/ the steel line flare nut screwed into the large filter nut that screws into the carb, then you have to hold the filter nut w/ a wrench and use a flare nut wrench to unscrew the flare nut from the filter nut. If the pipe is stuck to the flare nut then you have a problem and will have to use a penetrant such as Kroil or PB Blaster until you can break it loose.

If the filter nut has pulled the threads out of the carb then there is a filter nut available in the aftermarket that has more threads and goes deeper into the carb. If you have to use any sealer on the flare nut or filter nut then something is wrong. A bad flare on the gas line or bad gasket on the filter nut or scratches on the gasket surface on the carb.

 

[Kevin]

Thanks for all of the helpful advice. My car is bone stock, so I still have the Qjet with the flare nut and large filter nut setup; this is where I went wrong in the first place, because I knew I should be holding the larger nut while loosening the fuel line, but did not have the right tools with me to do this so I tried to get away with it and paid the price by twisting the line when the larger nut gave. I changed the filter, cut the existing steel line, and worked in a piece of rubber pressure-rated fuel hose as a temporary fix. Also found a loose spark plug wire, and when all was said and done it runs great. Drove it for a couple of days to entertain an out-of-town guest and now it sits awaiting the new factory steel fuel line that is on order Speaking of spark plugs, holy cow are those hard to get to!

 

[TimAT]

I bought one of those factory pre bent lines from Ecklers' for my BB. Not even close to fitting correctly. I ended up with a piece of 3/8 brake tube, a fistful of -6AN fittings and a 3/8 inverted flare nut. I made a line with an inline filter that fits. I had a double flare tool- 45* flare, but the AN takes a 37* flare so I bought one of those and the tube bender I had was so close to junk it was a good excuse to get a good one. Couple hours of looking and measuring I now have a nice fuel lne.

The 3/8 tubing come with the nuts and already flared, but the length is way wrong. So it's cut-n-fit.

FWIW, having a rubber line on the pressure side of the fuel pump is asking for trouble. One leak and odds are you get to call your insurance company and file a claim. Even the stainless braided hoses have a rubber hose in them. I'm not about to trust it on my car.