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1981 Electric Window problem

jforte

Member
Joined
Sep 27, 2008
Messages
22
Location
Danbury
Corvette
1981
Hey Guys, I was hoping to get some advice. I have to really play with the window switches to get the windows to go up and down. Once they "connect" the windows go up and down really nice and fast, but i have to play with them a little to work. It seems to be electrical, like the connections are loose or bad...anyone else have this issue? THANKS in advance!
 
Had the same problem with the driver side when I got my 12K mile white 79.
I simply cleaned the switch. They're pretty low tech, simply copper leaves that contact one another when you move the lever. They get burn marks over the years.
Remove the switch and clamp it in a vise. With a hammer and screwdriver bend up the 4 tabs that hold it together. Don't worry if some break off.
Pay attention to the orientation of the insides and pull out the copper leaves. Sand off the burn marks. Put it back together the same way or it will work opposite of normal.
With the hammer and screwdriver stake the tabs back over. If needed, stake over any extra material along the sides.
You can remove the switches from the console by removing just the carpeted side panels. 3 screws. I think it's a 5/16" wrench that fits the switch retaining screw, at least on my 79.

Or....replace the switches!
 
VERY COOL! Will take it apart and analyze the switches seems like it might just be best to change them out. Thanks again!
 
Had the same problem with the driver side when I got my 12K mile white 79.
I simply cleaned the switch. They're pretty low tech, simply copper leaves that contact one another when you move the lever. They get burn marks over the years.
Remove the switch and clamp it in a vise. With a hammer and screwdriver bend up the 4 tabs that hold it together. Don't worry if some break off.
Pay attention to the orientation of the insides and pull out the copper leaves. Sand off the burn marks. Put it back together the same way or it will work opposite of normal.
With the hammer and screwdriver stake the tabs back over. If needed, stake over any extra material along the sides.
You can remove the switches from the console by removing just the carpeted side panels. 3 screws. I think it's a 5/16" wrench that fits the switch retaining screw, at least on my 79.

Or....replace the switches!

I did the exact same thing with my 81 over a year ago, still working fine.
 
COOL. It will be my little project this coming weekend. Will post results. Thanks gusy!
 
Watch with you buy for replacement, there are some cheap ones out there that don't last long. Try to keep the originals with some clean up.
 
You guys must be reading my mind from afar. I just started having this problem yesterday on the drivers side door. Good info and will be doing this this weekend.
 
So you guys really don't think that i should buy new switches? Do i just disconnect the existing and wire brush the connnections? How do i access, just remove the side carpet and thats it, or do i have pop off the shifter console too?
 
take one of the seats out and there are 3 screws along the side of the console. they should be phillips heads.
remove these screws to access the under side of the console.
the drivers seat,the bolts are underneath,whereas the pass.seat the bolt are inside.
good luck.
 
You acn try cleaning the old ones, if you can afford new ones, buy them. If you are not comfortable trying to work on the old ones, order new ones, then when you have the old ones out, try working on them, if that doesn't work, slip the new ones in. Keep all parts that you take off, can't tell when they will come in handy to have. You ahve to try working on something to knowledge on how it works, that knowledge is useful latter on. BE SURE to disconnect the battery when working on electricial parts!!!!!!!!!
 
Gentlemen, thank you for your help here. Yes the battery! That would be good! Thanks again.
 
I fixed my window switches just a couple weeks ago.
Just took them apart, filed the contacts flat and clean, and epoxied the switch back together with some good slow-setting epoxy on the 4 corners of the outside of the board. I didn't think that the metal tabs would be enough to hold it back in place without breaking them off. I used some electrical tape wrapped around the switch to hold it tightly together while the epoxy cured.
The contacts were arced(burnt) very badly, and the copper spring contacts were not very strong, so I just bent them back up a little to get a good amount of force on the switch rocker.
Everything works great now, and I didn't have to buy any parts at all.
 

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