Relay / Switch Trouble Shooting Hint
Thanks,
Do you know of an easy way to reach them?
A tried and true method of checking a relay or switch contacts (without actually seeing the contacts) will carry enough current to operate a electrical component like horns, etc, is:
Step 1, Disconnect the electrical plug at the horn(s). Step 2, using a test lamp (a 12 V lamp with two wires soldered to the lamp, one on the center contact and the second to the base of the lamp). Step 3, with the relay activated (helper pressing the steering whell center) and the test light connected between the hot cable terminal and the car frame / ground point. Step 4, a brightly lit lamp indicates a good contact / current path through the relay contacts & through the wiring up to the horn. Step 5, The horn is now suspect, check horn mounting to frame is free of rust. Step 6, If horn mounting is good, check the horn electrically with a ohm meter for continuity, horn resistance should be quite low, a few ohms reading is typicallly a good reading. Step 7, If all test results seem correct, but still a weak or no horn operation may mean that there is a poor connection inside the horn assembly, try connecting a different, but compatable horn. Step 8, If all tests are negative (no lit lamp), disconnect wiire #28 at the horn relay, using a test lead or jumper wire; short that contact on the relay to a frame ground, if the horn(s) sounds then the problem lays with either the horn switch or in the wiring from the switch to the relay.
ps: My shop manual only shows both horns mounted up front near the head lights.
I hope the above make sense and help in locating the problem.
