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1984 AC part

84c47755

Member
Joined
Jan 3, 2004
Messages
17
Location
Union, ME
Corvette
1984
Does anyone know what part # 10007057 on the AC does? I think this is a switch on the back of the compressor. Mine is broken, and I am trying to figure out if I can replace it. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
 
Does anyone know what part # 10007057 on the AC does? I think this is a switch on the back of the compressor. Mine is broken, and I am trying to figure out if I can replace it. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

I replaced that switch when I replaced my compressor because mine broke during removal from the old compressor. The switch turns on the raditor fan when the compressor kicks on and starts to build pressure. The first switch I got from Car Quest was wrong. After wasting a charge of R-12 I found that it worked backwards and the fan was on all the time, even with the AC off. I ordered another from NAPA and it just does not work. The original switch is discontinued from GM and was a one year only switch for the 84 Vette. I may just have to install a toggle switch to ground out the fan relay so I can turn it on manually when I run the AC. I have plenty of R-12 left but it is not worth the effort unless I can find an original switch to use. The one that NAPA lists as the replacement switch works at different pressures than the original but the cooling capacity is low unless the raditor fan is on. When the fan kicks on because of the coolant temp switch, the AC is nice and cold. I worry that the AC pressure is dangerously high if the fan isn't on like it should be.
 
I just checked GMPARTSDIRECT.com and they do carry that PN switch. I also just checked my parts microfiche and that PN is listed as the AC cycling switch. This makes me think we may not be talking about the same switch. Are you talking about the switch that is actually mounted on the back of the compressor? The OEM switch only has one wire and is grounded through the compressor. The replacementd are 2 wire switches and you have to connect it to a ground. I would have to do some more research but I believe the AC cycling switch is the low pressure switch that engages the clutch and not the fan. There is also a high pressure switch that disengages the clutch when pressure gets to high, but the switch on the compressor is for the raditor fan.
 
Thanks for replying. Yes, I am talking about the switch directly on the back of the compressor. I also found the part listed on GMPartsDirect.com, and RockAuto.com. Is replacing it as simple as removing the old one and screwing in the new switch, or is there more detail (like somehow relieving pressure in the AC system) I need to know about? I have never worked on AC before, so this is new territory. Thanks.
 
Thanks for replying. Yes, I am talking about the switch directly on the back of the compressor. I also found the part listed on GMPartsDirect.com, and RockAuto.com. Is replacing it as simple as removing the old one and screwing in the new switch, or is there more detail (like somehow relieving pressure in the AC system) I need to know about? I have never worked on AC before, so this is new territory. Thanks.
If you are talking about the switch in the compressor it's held in with a snap ring!!! And YES you defiantly want the AC system completely dis-charged!!!:upthumbs
 
To replace the switch on the compressor does require that you remove the freon. It is held in place with a snap ring. The replacement comes with a new O ring that you should lube with air conditioning mineral oil if your system still has R-12 or PAG oil if it has been converted to R-134. You then need need to pull a vacuum to boil off any moisture and recharge. I would also recommend changing the accumulator once you open the system. Personally I would flush it also and measure and replace the oil so I knew I had the right amount. Most compressors fail because the oil leaks out with the freon eventually. There are a lot of special tools and equipment needed to do this job correctly. If you are not familiar, than it is money well spent taking it to a shop with no shame. It is also illegal to just vent the freon, so a shop can recover it for you. The only reason I even tried it is because I'm an aircraft maintenance technician and I had a friend with all the tools, hoses and pumps to flush the system, change the orifice tube, compressor and accumulator. I just wish the switch was working because I don't want to do it all over again until something bigger needs to be replaced. Here is a site that I got invaluable info from: http://www.autoacforum.com/ Lots of expert advice there. Good luck and let me know how you make out with that switch. I was told by NAPA that the switch was no longer available by GM, so I'm curious to see if you get the one wire yellow switch or the 2 wire that comes with a new connector that you splice on.
 
ACDELCO Part # 152352
MoreInfo.gif
{#10007057}
Category: A/C System Switch
getimage.php

I just looked at the switch that Rock Auto lists under that part number and I guarantee that is not the switch that mounts on the compressor. That looks like the low pressure cycling switch that is mounted on the ac tubing.$26.79$0.00$26.79
 
As you can see from the 2 schematics, there are 3 switches. A hi and low press switch that look like the one from Rock Auto and screw in that control the clutch, and a high press switch that is held in place with the snap ring on the compressor that turns the fan on and off. The fan switch has a mushroom shaped ceramic head that holds the compressor. Some are red in color on all later years but the 84 was yellow. Don't use a red one because they are normally closed and will run backwards from the way you want it to. The yellow one which I still believe is not made any more only closes when the ac is turned on from pressure in the compressor and runs the radiator fan. As I found out, the aftermarket switches are a crap shoot. Every year after 84 the switch was normally closed. Many of the aftermarket switch makers do not realize this so they think the 84 system with the R4 compressor is just like 85, 86, etc. Bring a multimeter to the autoparts store and make sure you are not reading continuity through the switch. The first switch I bought did. The second one I bought did not but it just never closes. I forget the pressures but when I called the manufacturer, that switch was rated at a higher pressure then the OEM switch. I suspect my compressor just does not make enough pressure to turn the fan on or I bought a defective switch.
 
For what its worth, I just looked at the switch that came out of my compressor originally and there is a number on it that I was never able to cross. It is: 6551828. That is probably the PN you need but good luck finding it.
 
Thanks everybody. I am going to take a closer look tonight and see what I can see. It sounds like the switch on the back of the compressor controls the radiator fan. If that is the case, will the AC still work if that switch is broken and disconnected?
 
It will work just not as efficiently. Mine is like that right now because that switch does not work. You can put a toogle switch in your car and ground the switch out yourself and turn the fan on manually. I wouldn't replace it until you have to remove the compressor for something else. Just take her out on nice days and leave the top off!
 

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