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1984 vibrations over 65 on smooth road

LMAO

I would re-test the individual componets again! If you get deflection or noise in a wheel bearing, it's propably BAD. Wiggle shake , pry and stress each componet and see if it yeilds to the stress. If it does, you can imagine what it's doing on the road! Rubber bushed componets should only move against the rubber componet. If you feel free play prior to the rubber defelection, REPLACE it.

Bill C
 
1984 Vibrations

Well there is something wrong back there, for two reasons:
First there is a definite growl (sounds like a wheel bearing to me) coming from the rear end.
Secondly there is some instability back there that I can feel when it shifts under stress or if I swing the wheel back and forth going down the road. My '86 does not do that. The '86 does have the Z51 handling package but I am sure what I am feeling and hearing is not that difference.

I'll give it a look on Saturday and let you know what I find.

Thanks for your input Bill.........
 
I dont know if this has any bearing on problems in this thread but I am posting a link to another thread on a another forum. A loose rear end turned out to be too much run out in the differential yokes. It can be repaired by shimming the yokes. Like I said It may not be the problem here but worth looking in to.
car sways on acceleration
 
1984 vibrations

Paul,
Thanks for the reply. I followed that thread and the car that was happening to had 140,000 miles on it. That gives me hope that is not the trouble with mine. My '85 only has 42k on it. It also has a growl in the rear end when I get over 65. Don't know if end play on the yokes would cause that noise. If I don't find anything I will send someone (my son in law) :) into the rear end.

Thanks...........
 
Give this a try! Have someone push on the rear/side of the car and make it sway from side to side. Once they get it going, crawl under the rear and check all of the componets that provide stability in that direction. If there is anything loose, you should find it.

For the wheel bearings, you will need to get 4 jack stands. Jack up the rear end and support the carrier on two of the jackstands. Then CAREFULY jack up each rear wheel and support the rear spindels so the wheels are close to the same ride height as if it were sitting on the ground. The rear end should still be on the inboard jack stands. This procedure will allow you to put the car in gear and allow each wheel to rotate at about 30-40 mph. I use a mechanics stephescope and listen to each spindel housing. DO NOT nap the gas and see how fast you can get it! Just allow it to get to about 40, check it for noise and apply the brakes gentely until the wheels stop.
You can also power breaked it to apply torque to the rear wheels.
You can see all kind of things twist and wind up if they are bad.
If you have noise and looseness in any componets, they need to be replaced!

Bill C
 
vibrations in my rear

well i got one side of u joints in half shaft done, going to do other side this weekend. i test drove it still feels the same. the u joints didnt look bad just some marks where the bearings ride. any way thanks for the advice bill c i used a c clamp like you said and they pressed right out and the new ones right in. while i had it a part i was looking at the outer tie rod ends they feel tight when there bolted in but how do you tell if there bad. i can wiggle the ball in the socket when its unbolted, is this normal? they want 65.00 each at the chevy dealer. also is there inner tie rods in the rear end also. i was going to take down hole thing with the rods and check but i didnt. thanks guys fred
 
Fred

The ball will swivel BUT there shouldn't be any roughness, ZERO side to side motion and ZERO up and down motion. Its just like the joint in your shoulder or your knee. You want it to rotate but not to come out of the socket. If you can get it to come out of its socket, replace it. New ones are very tight! Older ones will be easier to move but, they should NOT be able to be disloged from the piviot socket. Go to any auto parts store and examine any tie rod end. It will give you an idea as to what a new and used one is like.
The common tie rod joint in the center is difficult to check. It allows the tie rids to move in an arc but should NOT allow ANY in or out motion (NONE, ZILCH, NOTA, ABSOUTLY NONE!) That is the joint that usually causes the car to pull to the left or right under acceleration BUT other things can also cause it.
Your best bet on trouble shooting suspension problems is to carefully examine each componet and check them for excessive play. If you apply force in each direction and check for excessive defelection, you will find the problems.

Why do you go to the DEALER to get corvette parts? I have found that Advance, NAPA, and sometimes Auto Zone will carry most of the suspension parts much cheeper!
 
Fred

If you come out of the hole real hard (almost a burnout launch) how does the rear end sound and feel?


Please let me know. You should have fun testing it out anyway! :)

WIFE: What are all of those burnout marks in the drive way?? :mad

Fred: Honey,,,,, I was just testing out the car, trying to find a problem.:D

Good Luck

Bill C

Fred,, I will be in Philly 15 April-19 April and will be going to Baltimore for the weekend and then back down to Philly for the rest of the week. Maybe we can get together and check it out.

Let me know
 

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