1991 Dies while driving...need help!

[jeffgrice]

Hey Gang,

We have a 91 with 40k miles.

Twice now the car has died shortly after leaving the house. In between occurrences it was fine for 200 miles.

Occurrence#1: Driving 50 miles per hour just left the house and drove 1 miles, car stops running. Won't turn over as if the battery was totally dead. But electricals work. 10 minutes later, turn the key fires up and runs fine.

200 miles later

Occurrence#2. Same as #1, but when the starter would engage after 10 minutes or so the car would not fire up. Took several minutes of cranking then it fired and ran like it should.

Any suggestions on what could cause this?

Any suggestions on a shop in Macomb County Michigan?

Thanks

Jeff

 

[jeffgrice]

Hey Gang

Found the fuel pressure regulator was bad.

BUT once the car gets up to operating tempurature and the fans come on the car stops running and I hear a click click noise.

Car cools down it starts but will die again when the fans come on.

Any ideas?

Jeff

 

[ecss]

If you want to see the fans run, short Pin A to Pin B on the diagnostic connector located above the drivers right knee. Turn the ignition On. Don't start the car. Both fans will run and you will hear a ticking sound which is the IAC valve and is normal. If the fan's run I doubt that is causing the stalling unless it's because of the extra current load on the electrical system.

Also jump Pin A to Pin G. Turn the ignition On and look at the speedometer LCD. Verify no codes are set.
Module 1 is the CCM
Module 4 is the ECM
C12 and ------ are not errors.


Could be loose battery terminal cables.
Bad alternator or battery.
The fusible link wire terminal lugs at the battery jumper block located behind and below the battery could need cleaning. All of the wires are clamped together by a stud. The cowl dumps water onto this area and causes corrosion. This is the distribution point for most of the electrical 12 volts.

What is the voltage when the engine is running?

 

[jeffgrice]

If you want to see the fans run, short Pin A to Pin B on the diagnostic connector located above the drivers right knee. Turn the ignition On. Don't start the car. Both fans will run and you will hear a ticking sound which is the IAC valve and is normal. If the fan's run I doubt that is causing the stalling unless it's because of the extra current load on the electrical system.

Also jump Pin A to Pin G. Turn the ignition On and look at the speedometer LCD. Verify no codes are set.
Module 1 is the CCM
Module 4 is the ECM
C12 and ------ are not errors.


Could be loose battery terminal cables.
Bad alternator or battery.
The fusible link wire terminal lugs at the battery jumper block located behind and below the battery could need cleaning. All of the wires are clamped together by a stud. The cowl dumps water onto this area and causes corrosion. This is the distribution point for most of the electrical 12 volts.

What is the voltage when the engine is running?

Thanks for the great input!

I will check things out.

The alternator was replaced about 15k miles ago and the batter is 2 years old. Either could be failing.

The volts are 14 on the dash

Thanks again.

Jeff

 

[jeffgrice]

If you want to see the fans run, short Pin A to Pin B on the diagnostic connector located above the drivers right knee. Turn the ignition On. Don't start the car. Both fans will run and you will hear a ticking sound which is the IAC valve and is normal. If the fan's run I doubt that is causing the stalling unless it's because of the extra current load on the electrical system.

Also jump Pin A to Pin G. Turn the ignition On and look at the speedometer LCD. Verify no codes are set.
Module 1 is the CCM
Module 4 is the ECM
C12 and ------ are not errors.


Could be loose battery terminal cables.
Bad alternator or battery.
The fusible link wire terminal lugs at the battery jumper block located behind and below the battery could need cleaning. All of the wires are clamped together by a stud. The cowl dumps water onto this area and causes corrosion. This is the distribution point for most of the electrical 12 volts.

What is the voltage when the engine is running?

Thanks again.

Turned out to be a) bad fuel pressure regulator (running 6 lbs under spec) and b) failing ECU (it was picking up errant readings ..eg. 300 degree oil temp at start...and shutting the car down.

Runs great now!

Thanks for the input!!

JEff