1994 ASR/ABS Problems

[Toms86]

I have only had this corvette for two weeks. On the message board I have the messages flashing: ASR On, ASR Off, Service ASR, and ABS, Service ABS. I've taken the car to the Chevy house and was told that the ASR/ABS computer was bad and had another one installed yesterday. Today the Service ASR came on as I stopped at a store. As I restarted to leave the store the same five messages started flashing and doing the same thing that I thought had been fixed.

Has anyone had this type of problem and what did you do to fix it?

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Tom

 

[resto75]

I have not a clue to what the problem is but I would try disconnecting the battery for a 1/2 hour or so and see if that gets rid of the problem. There may be a gremlin in your system.

 

[madquake]

OK Partner ...
You will have to trust me on this one ...
Its going to sound too good to be true tho.
4 months ago ... When I got my Vette 93 convertible ... I had the same problem.
Dummy ASR ... ABS ... and check engine Was Flashing on !!
Scared me to death thinking My computer was bad ..or needed brake ABS components or something.. and didn't even know
what hell was an ASR was !!
Heck I almost bought the whole ASR component thats in the engine compartment... I was so Vette ignorant!
After spending a whopping 450.00 to get the car serviced cause it ran like SHIAT Got the check engine light squared away.
It was Tuned .. injection system and Throttle body
cleaned out .. two of the wires were dry rotted not even sparking... new plugs and oil changed .. Filter was charcoled black .. just a nightmare.
Last owner didn't really abused the car just neglected it really bad!
Still had the ABS AND ASR Dummy lites flashing tho...
When I got on it the ASR and ABS Would lite up and stay on.
Was a helpless nightmare for weeks.
I posted my problem on another Corvette Forum
(BTW I'm new Here to this one)
And a corvette mechanic contact me back and suggested what I thought at the time was the most ridiculous fix imaginable.
He asked me if the brakes were ever done ??
I remember the previous owner did tell me he did the brakes himself ... (HE WAS HARDLY A REAL MECHANIC) But tackled the job and did it himself to save $$
So I confirmed to the mechanic indeed they were done ...
So he assured me the Brake Fluid was Low!!!
After the brake swap the calipers are opened up to accomadate
the new pads the lines suck up fluid leaving the level low on the resorvior.
The computer senses the low fluid level and shoots the ASR ABS Dummy lights off !!

Aprehensive about the Idea ... One day At walmart I walked through the car supply section and remembered Brake Fluid as a Fluke ... said what could it hurt 3-4 Bucks .. Always good to have fluid around anyhow I bought!
In the Parking lot I opened up the hood and looked at the res. container for the brake fluid and low and behold it was indeed a bit low ... Still aprehensive I poured about half the bottle into it.
Turned the car on and Floored it as soon as I got on a straight away and to my suprise no lites!!
Floored it at every lite to try to set it off till i burned a half a tank and nothing!!
Been 3 months and Good bye lites ... only time I see ASR is when I turn it off with the little button to tell me I turned it off and I don't have the traction on.

ABS: Anti-lock Braking System. Sensors monitor wheel rotation and prevent wheel lockup during braking by modulating hydraulic pressure. Corvette's ABS was standard equipment starting with 1986 models.

ASR: Acceleration Slip Regulation. Engine spark retard, throttle close down, and brake intervention limit wheel spin during acceleration. ASR was standard equipment starting with 1992 Corvette models.

These components from what I understand are intertwined in working together ...



In short add Dot 3 brake fluid it should be low!!


Hope this Works

GOOD LUCK!!!


Let me know madquake@bellsouth.net


Mark A ..

Go Vettes ... and Stangs

The Vette is my Wifes and the Stang is mine ..

 

[madquake]

OH BTW GO HERE FOR SOME GOOD OLE USEFUL FACTS ON OUR CARS !!

http://www.corvette.nl/hoofdindex.html


Again ... GOOD LUCK!!!!

MARK A .

 

[compyelc4]

<<After the brake swap the calipers are opened up to accomadate
the new pads the lines suck up fluid leaving the level low on the resorvior.>>

Someone please help me understand this! On every pad or lining replacement I've ever done (and that is a bunch), adding the new thickness tends to displace the fluid back into the reservoir thereby making the fluid level higher than it was, not lower. Once or twice I've even overflowed the dang thing by not keeping an eye on things.

Am I correct? Did I misunderstand the comment?

 

[BlackNBlue95]

<<After the brake swap the calipers are opened up to accomadate
the new pads the lines suck up fluid leaving the level low on the resorvior.>>

Someone please help me understand this! On every pad or lining replacement I've ever done (and that is a bunch), adding the new thickness tends to displace the fluid back into the reservoir thereby making the fluid level higher than it was, not lower. Once or twice I've even overflowed the dang thing by not keeping an eye on things.

Am I correct? Did I misunderstand the comment?

Your correct...
maybe it was mis -worded.. when the pads wear low the fluid in the resivior goes lower ecause the piston it out further and hence the fluid must fill the piston bore to accomodate for this.. unless he opened the bleeders and lost a little fluid and never filled it up and after a little while of driving and the pads wearing down it got low enough to cause this problem... i dunno but I would check the resisoir and see if it's full now..

Now...
let say that the controller was bad say it had a blown driver you much check to see if the problem that made it blow is still there before replaceing the controller because you can end up with the same problem again.. like say you have a shorted ECM harness or something for injector driver and it flows too much current and blows the drive... now you need an nw ECM so you put one in it.. and you dont check for the short or what ever and now you just blew the new ECM because you never solved the first problem..
anyway let us know what you find..
-Rick

 

[madquake]

adding the new thickness tends to displace the fluid back into the reservoir thereby making the fluid level higher than it was, not lower.


This is Correct ... I worded it incorrectly.
At times fluid needs to be taken because it begins to over flow.
and unintentionally we take too much out ... leaving it low.

Sorry for the misunderstanding.

Mark A ..

 

[madquake]

Most people bleed brakes after a swap of pads and well that will leave you with the delima of also needing to add to res. also after a brake swap.

Mark A.

 

[RLD92]

I have always pinched off the brake lines and opened bleeders so excess fluid is not forced back thru system. It is old fluid anyhow and it never hurts to flush system.

 

[BlackNBlue95]

I have always pinched off the brake lines and opened bleeders so excess fluid is not forced back thru system. It is old fluid anyhow and it never hurts to flush system.

At school they taught us to open the bleeders every time you do a brake job.. they claim that is is especially important on cars with ABS because a piece of crud could be pushed back from the caliper and clog up an ABS valve.. now real world.. noone seems to do it at the shop because time.. not you don't waste time opening a bleeder and dont have to waste time bleeding or filling the master unless it was low to begin with.. saves time.. but I think it's better to open them to get some fresh fluid in.. I read somewhere that you should do it every 2 years or something because of moisture build up which can cause air in the lines under hard brakeing where there is much heat build up.. due to the water boiling and turning into vapor in the line.. most the time it's ok just to not open the bleeders havn't had a problem with it yet.. but if you want to be anal especially in the case of a vette go ahead open them it won't hurt anything and like we said fresh fluid is better... that's my .02
-Rick

 

[Vettelt193]

I agree... I haven't used this technique yet, because i just read about it, but I am curious to know if you could push the pistons back by hand if the bleeder valve is open... it seems like it would be much easier to push them in without having to push all the fluid back through the system

 

[BlackNBlue95]

I agree... I haven't used this technique yet, because i just read about it, but I am curious to know if you could push the pistons back by hand if the bleeder valve is open... it seems like it would be much easier to push them in without having to push all the fluid back through the system

Yea you can.. you probably will need to use a piston tool or just a big Channel Lock.. orleave the caliper on and pry it with a screw driver or smal prybar..