Mad-Mic
Gone but not forgotten
To get lift number with 1.6 rocker, divide lift number by 1.5, then multiply by 1.6.
Edmund,
like others have said, the only thing a 4 bolt main is for mainly racing. if your winging it up 7000+ rpm then by all means a 4 bolt main block would be beneficial BUT on the other hand then you wouldn't have the streetability of Hydrualic rollers either unless you spend more money to get the lifter bore resized (i think)
if you want the strength get the mains splayed. this means the 2 bolts that hold the main cap on is set at a 45 degree angle (not that aggressive but you get the picture) and can withstand alot more rpm and torque so it won't lift the cap off the crank and spin a bearing. this setup is a little stronger.
IMO don't get cheap on the crank, rods, or pistons. you can get good rotating assemblies for 1500+ about 700 more you could have the same stroker kit and not a 355 kit with block work.
CHEVY 350 HYPEREUTECTIC PISTON 'ECONO' ENGINE KITRK350EH$ 699.00Have Rotating Assembly "Computer Balanced"$ 200.00
*I just did a google search and pulled this site up as i've been looking myself*
IMO if you want to drive the car and leave it as it is then go with the scat cast crank with hypereutectic pistons but if you want to play with it because your not happy with the power or want more power such as adding a bigger cam and or nitrous then go with the forged H beam setup. the cast stuff will hold easy 6500 rpm sustained and winging to 7000 rpm on occasion. Forged you can wing 7000+ as long as your valvetrain is good
Cam selection should be 2teen range duration .480" lift 112 lobe seperation. with the 1.6 RR's it comes to total lift of .512" which is a good streetable cam for a 350. then your setup really don't need the bigger heads and such either if you look at cam size that way. my guesstimation would be in the 320 rwhp and 410 rwtq. with a 228 .525 112 lsa on 1.6 RR's would see a total lift of .560" which in return will use the heads, Big Mouth intake, AS&M Runners, and ported plenum to it's full ability and you'd see most likely closer to 380 rwhp and close to 500 rwtq. if you go small cam you can always change it later or juice it if you like the streetability but get the good kit if you would like to play with it more.
that pretty much sums it up and those are the questions you want to ask yourself. if you just want to build it and drive it or know you got something under the hood to trounce new C6's
Edmund,
like others have said, the only thing a 4 bolt main is for mainly racing. if your winging it up 7000+ rpm then by all means a 4 bolt main block would be beneficial BUT on the other hand then you wouldn't have the streetability of Hydrualic rollers either unless you spend more money to get the lifter bore resized (i think)
if you want the strength get the mains splayed. this means the 2 bolts that hold the main cap on is set at a 45 degree angle (not that aggressive but you get the picture) and can withstand alot more rpm and torque so it won't lift the cap off the crank and spin a bearing. this setup is a little stronger.
IMO don't get cheap on the crank, rods, or pistons. you can get good rotating assemblies for 1500+ about 700 more you could have the same stroker kit and not a 355 kit with block work.
CHEVY 350 HYPEREUTECTIC PISTON 'ECONO' ENGINE KITRK350EH$ 699.00Have Rotating Assembly "Computer Balanced"$ 200.00
- NEW FEDERAL-MOGUL HYPEREUTECTIC FLAT TOP PISTONS, 10.0 : 1
- NEW EAGLE "SIR" 5.7" I-BEAM CONNECTING RODS W/ ARP WAVELOCK BOLTS
- NEW SCAT CAST STEEL 3.48" STROKE CRANKSHAFT
- NEW SEALED POWER MOLY PISTON RINGS
- NEW CLEVITE 77 ROD & MAIN BEARINGS
- NEW FEDERAL-MOGUL FORGED DOMED PISTONS, 11.5 : 1
- NEW EAGLE 5.7" I-BEAM BUSHED CONNECTING RODS W/ ARP WAVELOCK BOLTS
- NEW EAGLE 3.480" STROKE, 4340 FORGED NITRIDED STEEL CRANKSHAFT
- NEW SEALED POWER MOLY PISTON RINGS
- NEW CLEVITE 77 "H SERIES" RACE ROD & MAIN BEARINGS
- NEW FEDERAL-MOGUL HYPEREUTECTIC FLAT TOP PISTONS, 10.25 : 1
- NEW EAGLE "SIR" 5.7" I-BEAM CONNECTING RODS W/ ARP WAVELOCK BOLTS
- NEW SCAT CAST STEEL 3.75" STROKE CRANKSHAFT
- NEW SEALED POWER MOLY PISTON RINGS
- NEW CLEVITE 77 ROD & MAIN BEARINGS
- For externally balanced style Harmonic balancer & Flywheel only.
- NEW FEDERAL-MOGUL FORGED FLAT TOP PISTONS, 10.5 : 1
- NEW EAGLE "SIR" 5.7" I-BEAM CONNECTING RODS, W/ ARP WAVELOCK BOLTS
- NEW EAGLE "ESP" 4340 FORGED NITRIDED STEEL 3.75" STROKE CRANKSHAFT
- NEW SPEED PRO PLASMA MOLY PISTON RINGS
- NEW CLEVITE 77 "H SERIES" RACE ROD & MAIN BEARINGS
*I just did a google search and pulled this site up as i've been looking myself*
IMO if you want to drive the car and leave it as it is then go with the scat cast crank with hypereutectic pistons but if you want to play with it because your not happy with the power or want more power such as adding a bigger cam and or nitrous then go with the forged H beam setup. the cast stuff will hold easy 6500 rpm sustained and winging to 7000 rpm on occasion. Forged you can wing 7000+ as long as your valvetrain is good
Cam selection should be 2teen range duration .480" lift 112 lobe seperation. with the 1.6 RR's it comes to total lift of .512" which is a good streetable cam for a 350. then your setup really don't need the bigger heads and such either if you look at cam size that way. my guesstimation would be in the 320 rwhp and 410 rwtq. with a 228 .525 112 lsa on 1.6 RR's would see a total lift of .560" which in return will use the heads, Big Mouth intake, AS&M Runners, and ported plenum to it's full ability and you'd see most likely closer to 380 rwhp and close to 500 rwtq. if you go small cam you can always change it later or juice it if you like the streetability but get the good kit if you would like to play with it more.
that pretty much sums it up and those are the questions you want to ask yourself. if you just want to build it and drive it or know you got something under the hood to trounce new C6's
