$2700 for a rear main seal and clutch?

[Av8tr]

2005 Coupe with 40K.

Does $2700 at a dealer for a rear main seal and clutch replacement seem outrageous or is that normal?

Labor was quoted as $1800 just for the rear main seal. They said my clutch was starting to go as well so might as well get that fixed too. Which brought the total to $2700. Or is this dealer a rip off?

 

[Toms007]

Sounds like plenty, but probably about the going rates. Are you hard on the clutch? 40k and worn out? that sounds fishy to me, but I understand the idea to replace it, and save that labor. If it was worn (not worn out) it still would probably make sense to replace it....I, more than likely, would choose to replace it, no matter how much wear was on it, just because, it is an ordeal to replace it.

 

[Av8tr]

Sounds like plenty, but probably about the going rates. Are you hard on the clutch? 40k and worn out? that sounds fishy to me, but I understand the idea to replace it, and save that labor. If it was worn (not worn out) it still would probably make sense to replace it....I, more than likely, would choose to replace it, no matter how much wear was on it, just because, it is an ordeal to replace it.

Thanks for the response Tom. I don't think I am hard on the clutch. The car doesn't get driven much. 2005 with less than 40K :L However I just moved and drove it cross country. Had a couple of spots that I was able to open her up and play a bit on the highway. It's possible that I blew the seal during. I was having the dealer do the 30K inspection. They said the clutch was getting warn and recommend the replacement at the same time as the seal.

I did manage to talk them down to $2500 and another $600 for the 30K inspection and fluid replacements. They threw in a full detail as well. So I think based on what I have heard, while painful, I got a good deal.

I called around to other shops and they were in the same range with one exception at $2300 but over an hour from home.

 

[LLC5]

Are you see drops of oil on the ground where you park the vehicle?

 

[Av8tr]

Are you see drops of oil on the ground where you park the vehicle?

No and I looked for that. Not a drop. I had a strong burning smell every time I drove over the last 2 weeks.

 

[LLC5]

Is the burning smell the dealers diagnosis of the rear main seal leaking? I’m just wondering why they recommended a rear main seal replacement.

 

[Av8tr]

Is the burning smell the dealers diagnosis of the rear main seal leaking? I’m just wondering why they recommended a rear main seal replacement.

Yes. I had no idea what it could be since I couldn't see any oil dripping on the ground. But the smell was strong. I didn't notice any loss of power or clutch slipping though so I figured they would

 

[LLC5]

Is the vehicle in the shop getting the work done?

 

[Av8tr]

Is the vehicle in the shop getting the work done?

Yes, hoping to get it back next week sometime. Why?

 

[LLC5]

Yes, hoping to get it back next week sometime. Why?

I would make sure that the slave cylinder gets replaced, and the clutch system completely flushed, which is different than just installing a slave cylinder.

I would also have them check the intake valley pan for leaks, as it is a known leak area that can leak oil down to the bell housing area. Basically follow the leak to it's highest point.

 

[Av8tr]

Well.....the continuing saga......$3200 later. I got a call yesterday they had completed the work requested but when they went to test drive it they heard a squeaking from the engine compartment. Now they say I need a new belt tensioner pulley. Another $150. I was pretty emfatic that there wasn't an issue when I dropped it off so they said they would eat the cost on it.

I went to pick it up and the squeak is still there......so there it sits till Monday when they can investigate it.

There was no issue with the clutch when I dropped it off (so I am thinking I might have been taken for a ride). What might be indications that I would have missed if the clutch was going?

So another question I have for you guys is I asked for the 30K inspection. Which includes a transmission flush, fuel injector service and cooling system flush. Wouldn't the transmission be drained to do the clutch anyway? Don't they have to drop the transmission to replace the clutch?

I appreciate your help on this guys.

 

[LLC5]

Well.....the continuing saga......$3200 later. I got a call yesterday they had completed the work requested but when they went to test drive it they heard a squeaking from the engine compartment. Now they say I need a new belt tensioner pulley. Another $150. I was pretty emfatic that there wasn't an issue when I dropped it off so they said they would eat the cost on it.

I went to pick it up and the squeak is still there......so there it sits till Monday when they can investigate it.

There was no issue with the clutch when I dropped it off (so I am thinking I might have been taken for a ride). What might be indications that I would have missed if the clutch was going?

So another question I have for you guys is I asked for the 30K inspection. Which includes a transmission flush, fuel injector service and cooling system flush. Wouldn't the transmission be drained to do the clutch anyway? Don't they have to drop the transmission to replace the clutch?

I appreciate your help on this guys.

A clutch going out is usually slipping under a heavy load (engine rpm's are high with slow acceleration), jerking when using the clutch,abnormal noises etc. I don't think that is why they recommended a clutch, it is probably because the transmission and torque tube were out to do the rear main seal, and since the clutch is a wearable item just like brakes, it was a good time to do one. I did the same thing at 50K when I had my transmission resealed under warranty, but I did ask for it. The transmission, differential, and torque tube come out as a unit, so the transmission would not need to be drained.

 

[compyelc4]

I would never flush a transmission that is not causing problems. They can break crap loose that can end up causing you problems with a good working transmission. If that trans ain't causing problems, don't flush!

 

[LLC5]

I would never flush a transmission that is not causing problems. They can break crap loose that can end up causing you problems with a good working transmission. If that trans ain't causing problems, don't flush!

The OP's transmission is a manual with a clutch, and not an automatic, so it is just a drop and fill which is good to do for maintenance.

 

[compyelc4]

The OP's transmission is a manual with a clutch, and not an automatic, so it is just a drop and fill which is good to do for maintenance.

Oops. Forgot your manual. I was concentrating on the word, "flush". I'm a goof.

 

[LLC5]

Oops. Forgot your manual. I was concentrating on the word, "flush". I'm a goof.

I can match that more than once...

 

[Wayback]

The dealers hourly rate should be posted on the service desk wall along with standard charges. We bill the Co a 100.00 hr altho the shop is part of the Co I work for. So the book time for the work performed plus parts will equal the total cost. So if the job says it calls for 5 hrs & the mechanic only works on it for 3 ya still get charged for 5.

 

[mikeinco]

I have mine in a shop that I completely trust(not a dealership) because the fuel gauge stopped working. The bill is $1600, $107 for the part and 15 hours of labor. Apparently to drop the gas tank. you have to drop the tranny(auto) as well. I've read elsewhere that a fuel sensor can cause the problem or a sending unit. The shop I use also gives me a 10-20% discount on the total bill because I've used them for ryears and the owner is a friend. Overall I guess its OK and they 100% guarantee their work.

 

[Hib Halverson]

I would never flush a transmission that is not causing problems. They can break crap loose that can end up causing you problems with a good working transmission. If that trans ain't causing problems, don't flush!

The above is bad advice, regardless if the transmission is a manual or an automatic. Both transmission types require periodic maintenance for best durability.

C6 manuals should have lubricant changes every 3-years or 36,000 miles whichever comes first.
C6 automatics should have a fluid flush and filter change every 5-years/50,000 miles whichever comes first.

Also, C6 rear drive axles should have lubricant changes every 3-years or 36,000 miles whichever comes first.

 

[compyelc4]

The above is bad advice, regardless if the transmission is a manual or an automatic. Both transmission types require periodic maintenance for best durability.

C6 manuals should have lubricant changes every 3-years or 36,000 miles whichever comes first.
C6 automatics should have a fluid flush and filter change every 5-years/50,000 miles whichever comes first.

Also, C6 rear drive axles should have lubricant changes every 3-years or 36,000 miles whichever comes first.

Hib- please explain the difference between a flush and a change. My '07 owner's manual says "change" every 50,000 miles under "severe service" (sic) and every 100,000 miles under "normal" service. Can fluid be changed rather than flushed (as is back flush)? Also, by "drive axle... lubricant" you mean differential fluid? Also, regarding owner manual service of differential fluid in automatic or manual "gear box", I can't find where they recommend a change. Weird.