396ci in a C3?

[blasterfdc]

I have on opportunity to get a '69 396 motor for a resonable price. My question can I put it in my 69 that currently has a sick 327 in it. I know I would have to get all the accessories but I want to know if it would be an easy fit and a worthwhile upgrade. The motor comes with the block, heads crank, pistons and rods. dissasembled so it still needs rebuilt. any insight is welcomed.

 

[cruzer99]

A word of caution.

An engine in a bushel basket 9 times out of 10 is in the basket for a reason. Unless you know this person I would be very careful. All of the parts may not have come off the same engine or a bent crank, cracked block or pistons. The list is very long and could be very expensive before you had an engine that ran.
Good Luck

 

[JJS]

> "An engine in a bushel basket 9 times out of 10 is in the basket for a reason."

WOW!
Could these words of wisdom have been put any more eloquently? I think not!
Next time something sounds too good to be true, these will be the first words that come to my mind!

Sound and prudent advice, Cruzer82....or is it Sage?

 

[norvalwilhelm]

Even if the motor was good I wouldn't waste my effort on a 396. Externally the 454 is the exact same and a used one in need of rebuild can be pickup up reasonally. The similiar built 454 puts out about 50 more horse then the identical built 396.
The more cubic inch the better. If I needed a crank I would drop in a stroker crank and for little more you have 496 cubic inches in the same package.

 

[bobherr46]

I don't know what your budget is but I would consider a 400 smallblock buildup to replace the 327. All of the accessories will probably interchange and i am sure it would be a lot cheaper than a big block buildup. Everyone knows that bigger is better but it is pretty easy to get 400HP out of one of these motors and it will really wake your car up. I don't know the wight differences but the big block is heavier and you may have to change front springs ,etc. if you go to a heavier motor. I am a little prejudiced because I just replaced the 350 in my 79 L-82 with one of these but so far it has been a blast to drive. But. I don't have to be the fastest guy in town,Yet!!! - Bob

 

[AdvancedAutoCC]

The Painful Truth of Projects

First off... ask yourself these painfully true questions:

1) How much am I really able to spend on this engine? This engiine is in pieces for a reason and an attractive "buy in" price will be long forgotten when (and you will) spend some REAL money making a usable piece. Plus, when the day is done, the largest engine you'll have is a 408" BBC (assuming an overbore of .060). Another alternative is finding a rebuildable 454 (those are drying up rapidly, too), and being in the same boat. Stroker cranks are an option, yes, but you cannot simply "drop one in" to any engine without work, and it IS work.

2) How much am I able to spend on the necessary completion items? You're looking at new exhaust manifolds (or headers), all necessary brackets and new front coil springs (at the minimum). Depending on the route you take, this can add $1000 - $3000 to your budget, depending on how you shop and what you buy.

3) Am I able to do the necessary work myself, or do I have to pay somebody to do it? Do you have the necessary mechanical expertise to build and install an engine, plus the necessary "loose ends" to be taken car of, or do you have somebody who does? I'm not referring to Uncle Bob who once rebuilt a lawnmower "back in '79", or "who used to be a mechanic" type. Your only other alternative is finding a competent, reputable mechanic/technician to do the work, and that can cost big money (think hourly time at $50 - $100 per hour).

If you're looking for more performance than what you have now, a more realistic choice is most likely a good healthy small-block "Crate" engine. Your accessories will swap over, and work will be minimal in comparison to a big-block conversion. If you're in need of more HP after that, consider nitrous oxide injection.

"Willing vs Able"
You'll note that I say "able" rather than "willing" here.... we're all willing to spend whatever's necessary on our pride and joy vehicles (be they Corvettes, Chevelles, Harleys, etc.), but being willing and being able are two VERY different things! The "Project Rule of Thumb" applies to all - Figure your budget, then add 125% and you're in the ballpark. Good luck to you whatever you decide...

 

[blasterfdc]

Thanks for all the great info. I am probably going to stay with a small block. Not sure if I am going crate motor or find a 350 to build. Leaning towards building up my own 350. I have thought about going with the basic GM crate and adding some power add ons. Super chevy had a build up of one a while back. Was able to get close to 400 hp with 9.5:1 compression. Still thinking and planning

You guys are all great, lots of insight

First off... ask yourself these painfully true questions:

1) How much am I really able to spend on this engine? This engiine is in pieces for a reason and an attractive "buy in" price will be long forgotten when (and you will) spend some REAL money making a usable piece. Plus, when the day is done, the largest engine you'll have is a 408" BBC (assuming an overbore of .060). Another alternative is finding a rebuildable 454 (those are drying up rapidly, too), and being in the same boat. Stroker cranks are an option, yes, but you cannot simply "drop one in" to any engine without work, and it IS work.

2) How much am I able to spend on the necessary completion items? You're looking at new exhaust manifolds (or headers), all necessary brackets and new front coil springs (at the minimum). Depending on the route you take, this can add $1000 - $3000 to your budget, depending on how you shop and what you buy.

3) Am I able to do the necessary work myself, or do I have to pay somebody to do it? Do you have the necessary mechanical expertise to build and install an engine, plus the necessary "loose ends" to be taken car of, or do you have somebody who does? I'm not referring to Uncle Bob who once rebuilt a lawnmower "back in '79", or "who used to be a mechanic" type. Your only other alternative is finding a competent, reputable mechanic/technician to do the work, and that can cost big money (think hourly time at $50 - $100 per hour).

If you're looking for more performance than what you have now, a more realistic choice is most likely a good healthy small-block "Crate" engine. Your accessories will swap over, and work will be minimal in comparison to a big-block conversion. If you're in need of more HP after that, consider nitrous oxide injection.

"Willing vs Able"
You'll note that I say "able" rather than "willing" here.... we're all willing to spend whatever's necessary on our pride and joy vehicles (be they Corvettes, Chevelles, Harleys, etc.), but being willing and being able are two VERY different things! The "Project Rule of Thumb" applies to all - Figure your budget, then add 125% and you're in the ballpark. Good luck to you whatever you decide...

 

[titan81]

A 400-450 hp small block 350 -383 stroker can be
found new for under 2k minus intake, exhaust, carb, dist
2.2k for a 4 bolt. The 383's make a ton of torque and still run
on todays gas with reasonanle compression.

 

[RodsnRides]

383 stroker!

Hi folks -

Just last June I had a 383 stroker built at D&K Motorsports in Helena, Montana for exactly $2K. This included balance, blueprint, deck the block, shot-peen and resize the rods, etc. I only provided the cam, valve springs, timing chain and rockers, and I finished the long block with my intake, exhaust, carb, and water pump. Don at D&K also 3-angled the valves, installed hardened seats and pocket-ported the ports. He used a Scat crank.

For an additional $200 he put it on his dyno: 344 hp at (I think) 3600 rpm, 434 ft.-lbs. at around 3000 rpm. Edelbrock Performer cam and intake, stock exhaust manifolds.

Engine is installed in my '70 Chevelle Concours Estate wagon, and it runs very well. With a 2.56 posi, I'm doing 90 at 3000 rpm and I have heaps of pedal left. Acceleration from 55-90 is awesome. The wagon has the full Hotchkiss suspension upgrade ($1500) and drives like a Camaro-it's that tight.

I recommend you go with a stroked small block.

Rick