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scorp508
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SloRvette said:
Did they ever get back to you on that one?
Did they ever get back to you on that one?
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- #22
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SloRvette
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The thought was that something in the clutch hydraulic system isn't right. Nothing really made sense to me. According to them they haven't had abnormal wear problems in any other setups. I'm stuck in the middle right now about whether to rebuild the clutch and retry it ( just because I don't like to not know what the real problem is ) or continue on with the auto swap.
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- #23
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FourAndAHalf
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Ok I got in touch with the guy at http://precisionte.com and i emailed him and he sent me a response requestion some information that i am not very educated in... can someone help me out?
he asks what kind of power levels i want... i guess hes talking about horsepower...?? And he also says stall speed with a question mark... like this Stall Speed? i dont know how to answer that because i dont know what he means by stall speed..
thanks
austin
he asks what kind of power levels i want... i guess hes talking about horsepower...?? And he also says stall speed with a question mark... like this Stall Speed? i dont know how to answer that because i dont know what he means by stall speed..
thanks
austin
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FourAndAHalf
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on my last post i spelled requesting "requestion" which was a mistake... sorry i didnt look over my post before i sent it, also on the previous post where i mentioned stall speed... He wrote before that what kind of tranny im running and i told him automatic so maybe stall speed has something to do with the transmission? just a guess....
austin
austin
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SloRvette
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Austin, stall speed relates to the the characteristics of the torque convertor.
Right now you're very early in the build process. The first thing you need to do is to decide on what kind of performance you want from your car. Real performance numbers. Set your goals. These are going to be what everything will revolve around. Don't be blond and change your mind 12 times through this project. It'll cost you a bloody fortune. Do you want to run low 11 second times on street tires ? Do you want to mainly drive the car on the street ? Do you want to commute. What is the quickest street cat that you've been in so far ?
Once you pass 400 rwhp you've got a weapon that can be very dangerous to yourself and others. It takes a crap load of self control. I did a 360 in 50 mph 3 lane traffic with a little less than 400 rwhp the last time I drove my car. That was a wake up call.
The most important thing you can do is to set a goal you want to reach. Then you need to plan a budget.
It also sounds like you've got some real learning about cars to do.
Right now you're very early in the build process. The first thing you need to do is to decide on what kind of performance you want from your car. Real performance numbers. Set your goals. These are going to be what everything will revolve around. Don't be blond and change your mind 12 times through this project. It'll cost you a bloody fortune. Do you want to run low 11 second times on street tires ? Do you want to mainly drive the car on the street ? Do you want to commute. What is the quickest street cat that you've been in so far ?
Once you pass 400 rwhp you've got a weapon that can be very dangerous to yourself and others. It takes a crap load of self control. I did a 360 in 50 mph 3 lane traffic with a little less than 400 rwhp the last time I drove my car. That was a wake up call.
The most important thing you can do is to set a goal you want to reach. Then you need to plan a budget.
It also sounds like you've got some real learning about cars to do.
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FourAndAHalf
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SloRvette,
Your definitly right about that, (the part where iv got some real learning to do). I have always loved cars but havent had much time to really get involved and learn everything about them , which is why they are so cool. As far as performance goals go... these are a few... 0-60 in low 5 seconds high 4's. The ideal time would be 0-60 in 4.75 seconds. The quarter mile i want to reach in 12.00 seconds. Top speed does not concern me as much because i dont think i will ever really max out the car to its full speed, I am more intersted in acceleration and off the line speed. Are these goals unrealistic if i am still going to keep the car on the road during normal driving? I am definitly going to mainly drive the car on the street but i will go to the track as often as i can... There are a few tracks within 30 minutes of my house.. This is the quickest street car i have been in so far... and this car is completely stock.. when i got it ... i couldnt believe the power! Thats with only 230 HP!!!
I agree with you that 400 rwhp is tough to keep on the road. Do you think it is too much to handle for a beginner? Im definitly a good driver and probably better than most of the people out there but im not as experienced as some people.
For the budget plan, right now i have about 7000 dollars i can spend by the end of the summer i hope i can raise that to ten thousand...
tell me what you think.... of everything i said
thanks,
austin
Your definitly right about that, (the part where iv got some real learning to do). I have always loved cars but havent had much time to really get involved and learn everything about them , which is why they are so cool. As far as performance goals go... these are a few... 0-60 in low 5 seconds high 4's. The ideal time would be 0-60 in 4.75 seconds. The quarter mile i want to reach in 12.00 seconds. Top speed does not concern me as much because i dont think i will ever really max out the car to its full speed, I am more intersted in acceleration and off the line speed. Are these goals unrealistic if i am still going to keep the car on the road during normal driving? I am definitly going to mainly drive the car on the street but i will go to the track as often as i can... There are a few tracks within 30 minutes of my house.. This is the quickest street car i have been in so far... and this car is completely stock.. when i got it ... i couldnt believe the power! Thats with only 230 HP!!!
I agree with you that 400 rwhp is tough to keep on the road. Do you think it is too much to handle for a beginner? Im definitly a good driver and probably better than most of the people out there but im not as experienced as some people.
For the budget plan, right now i have about 7000 dollars i can spend by the end of the summer i hope i can raise that to ten thousand...
tell me what you think.... of everything i said
thanks,
austin
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- #27
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SloRvette
Guest
Forget the turbo idea. Getting a turbo combination right from scratch takes a lot of work. You won't need anything but motor to do what you want. Scorp's combo will get you real close to what you want.
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FourAndAHalf
Guest
Ok thanks,
Would you order all these items seperatly or can you get some of them together?
Would you order all these items seperatly or can you get some of them together?
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FourAndAHalf
Guest
The items on scorp's combo im talking bout
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Utah
Guest
What would be the advantages or disadvantages of rebuilding the motor at that stage while boring it out? Something I'm not to familar about and have been looking into for my 89.
Utah
Utah
Utah said:
It would pretty much be like a new motor. You're going to be changing the crank and pistons to brand new ones.
Guys,
Don't forget that when he upgrades that powerplant up, he must also upgrade his braking system. He'll need bigger rotors and beefier pads!
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Utah
Guest
But how would that compare to the combo kit they are talking about or adding a super or turbo charger? Im thinking about performance comparison as well as reliability.
Utah
Utah
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FourAndAHalf
Guest
Are you comparing the advantages and disadvantages or rebuilding the motor to the advantages and disadvantages of getting a whole new one? Edmond is right about the brakes too. And are you comparing your set up to the combo that Scorp posted?
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Utah
Guest
i was just curious as a friend of mine rebuilt the engine on his 86, and after that he was putting out over 350hp from his previously stock engine....
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- #35
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FourAndAHalf
Guest
I was thinking about doing it as well, but i think there are less time consuming ways to add some HP if that is your goal?
Rebuilding the engine takes a lot of time and money.
Rebuilding the engine takes a lot of time and money.
Mad-Mic
Gone but not forgotten
fourandahalf,
consider a 383 stroker crate motor from GM. they run around 4500 bucks and will get your 400hp at the crank easily with a good intake heads and cam. heads intake and cam sold seperatly
your goal is realistic. since you don't know much about rebuilding or building a motor for a car i would suggest find a very reputable engine builder and ask what he can do for you. my suggestion would be goto your local dragstrip and ask around. more than likely some engine builder/machine shop is already a sponsor of local events at the track. this way you can ask around and talk to their customers on what kind of work did they do. make sure they worked on vettes before.
you can go 2 ways-
keep your block and for the sake of well being get your 2 bolt main block retapped for 45 degree angled main bolts. which is STRONGER than any 4 bolt main block out there. this means that with all the hp and high rpm's you'll be turning you won't throw your crank or spin a bearing as easily from the main caps lifting off the crank.
or
buy a short bock 4 bolt main motor from GM, summit, jegs or whoever. make sure it's L-98 compatible and go from there.
either way with 7 grand you should hit your goal as long as you got a plan. do some research.
FYI you don't need to purchase a new crank for a rebuild or pistons or rods for that matter. you get your crank turned at a local machine shop and a good engine builder can tell if your pistons are shot. with forged pistons and forged rods these parts rarely wear out in stock applications but IMO i would buy new piston and rods but not the crank unless your consistently racing the car then buy a forged steel crank. these are expensive and can range from 600-1200 bucks easily just on this one part. next expensive part would be the heads and getting them machined for better flow. this can run from 600-1000 bucks for a set of good heads and all the way up to 4 grand or so for machined heads (stock heads that you would buy machined for better flow) on average your talking about 2500 just in heads and with the work alone. depending on how much HP you want to make. BUT with the machining done it opens up MUCHO GRANDE HP that you'd wish you'd of done in the first place.
good luck and i hope this helps
consider a 383 stroker crate motor from GM. they run around 4500 bucks and will get your 400hp at the crank easily with a good intake heads and cam. heads intake and cam sold seperatly
your goal is realistic. since you don't know much about rebuilding or building a motor for a car i would suggest find a very reputable engine builder and ask what he can do for you. my suggestion would be goto your local dragstrip and ask around. more than likely some engine builder/machine shop is already a sponsor of local events at the track. this way you can ask around and talk to their customers on what kind of work did they do. make sure they worked on vettes before. you can go 2 ways-
keep your block and for the sake of well being get your 2 bolt main block retapped for 45 degree angled main bolts. which is STRONGER than any 4 bolt main block out there. this means that with all the hp and high rpm's you'll be turning you won't throw your crank or spin a bearing as easily from the main caps lifting off the crank.
or
buy a short bock 4 bolt main motor from GM, summit, jegs or whoever. make sure it's L-98 compatible and go from there.
either way with 7 grand you should hit your goal as long as you got a plan. do some research.
FYI you don't need to purchase a new crank for a rebuild or pistons or rods for that matter. you get your crank turned at a local machine shop and a good engine builder can tell if your pistons are shot. with forged pistons and forged rods these parts rarely wear out in stock applications but IMO i would buy new piston and rods but not the crank unless your consistently racing the car then buy a forged steel crank. these are expensive and can range from 600-1200 bucks easily just on this one part. next expensive part would be the heads and getting them machined for better flow. this can run from 600-1000 bucks for a set of good heads and all the way up to 4 grand or so for machined heads (stock heads that you would buy machined for better flow) on average your talking about 2500 just in heads and with the work alone. depending on how much HP you want to make. BUT with the machining done it opens up MUCHO GRANDE HP that you'd wish you'd of done in the first place.
good luck and i hope this helps
-=Jeff=-
Well-known member
Along the lines with what Mad-Mic said..
For the Pistons, if you are rebuilding and the builder is boring the motor for yoou to clean up the cylinder walls, you will need to buy the pistons to fit.. basically if you have a 350 if it is worn pretty bad you may need to boring .030 over stock, you can then get +.030 pistons.
As far a the stock crank and rods, Assuming you stay with the stock stroke, the crank is fine, if you are going to a 383 you will need a 3.75 stroke crank (350 is a 3.48). With the rods, if you use stock, I would without a doubt replace all the rod bolts with ones from ARP.
When I built my current motor I picked up a used 350 4 both block with rods and pistons, I bought a new scat steel crank and pistons (my block is machined +.040 giving me 357 CI). I also reused the rods, but had them replace all the rod bolts and balance the rotating assembly. I used ARP bolts for the main caps as well.
Depending on what you want out of the car is going to suggest how to build it. Once you decide what you want, you start looking at parts and what will give you the best combo for your $$ ands goal..
Good Luck
For the Pistons, if you are rebuilding and the builder is boring the motor for yoou to clean up the cylinder walls, you will need to buy the pistons to fit.. basically if you have a 350 if it is worn pretty bad you may need to boring .030 over stock, you can then get +.030 pistons.
As far a the stock crank and rods, Assuming you stay with the stock stroke, the crank is fine, if you are going to a 383 you will need a 3.75 stroke crank (350 is a 3.48). With the rods, if you use stock, I would without a doubt replace all the rod bolts with ones from ARP.
When I built my current motor I picked up a used 350 4 both block with rods and pistons, I bought a new scat steel crank and pistons (my block is machined +.040 giving me 357 CI). I also reused the rods, but had them replace all the rod bolts and balance the rotating assembly. I used ARP bolts for the main caps as well.
Depending on what you want out of the car is going to suggest how to build it. Once you decide what you want, you start looking at parts and what will give you the best combo for your $$ ands goal..
Good Luck
Mad-Mic
Gone but not forgotten
thanks jeff i forgot to mention if you keep the stock rods make sure you get ARP bolts. these are another safe guard to take.
like jeff said if you keep your block and get it bored over then you will need new pistons with the right boring size to fit your needs. usually high milage blocks need boring low milage blocks can usually get away with honing. difference is boring actually takes metal out of the cylinder sleeve and honing just sands them down for a nice clean ring fit. alot of times in high milage blocks you will see cylinder walls that look like this / \ if that represents the cylinder wall. notice the inverted V what happens is in stock applications top dead center of the piston doesn't come to even close to the top of the deck where the heads fit on and wear in an uneven path as the inverted V. other things that may happen is cylinder warp with different degrees of heat in certain areas that "may" warp the cylinder out of shall we say square? :L or out of a perfect circle and the rings make up for the gaps. boring reshapes the cylinder for best piston/ring fit.
like jeff said if you keep your block and get it bored over then you will need new pistons with the right boring size to fit your needs. usually high milage blocks need boring low milage blocks can usually get away with honing. difference is boring actually takes metal out of the cylinder sleeve and honing just sands them down for a nice clean ring fit. alot of times in high milage blocks you will see cylinder walls that look like this / \ if that represents the cylinder wall. notice the inverted V what happens is in stock applications top dead center of the piston doesn't come to even close to the top of the deck where the heads fit on and wear in an uneven path as the inverted V. other things that may happen is cylinder warp with different degrees of heat in certain areas that "may" warp the cylinder out of shall we say square? :L or out of a perfect circle and the rings make up for the gaps. boring reshapes the cylinder for best piston/ring fit.
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FourAndAHalf
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ok thanks guys
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mynewc5
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My main question is, if there's no budget, why'd you buy an '85?
Doug
Doug
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