Jds3660
New member
I own a ‘63 SWC and will be going through the front and rear brakes soon. My car currently has the original 4-wheel drums on the car. I want to convert to a Dual Master Cylinder system, as the car has had one system failure with the single reservoir system before – and I’m also contemplating a change to front disc brakes while I’m at it. My dilemma is this – whether to go with the “stock” 1963 parts versus upgrading to discs while I’m doing this. Looking at the 60-0 stopping distances in road tests from the period are more impressive than I would have thought – 60mph stops in 130’ on the original bias-plys. Consider a NEW 2014 Challenger 5.7L RT with 4-wheel disks also does a 60-0 in the 130’ range (I know, it’s 50% heavier).
Let me first say make these disclaimers/explanations:
The car will never be a track car. Nor may it ever be an NCRS-type restored car as it has a non-numbers matching engine block, and I have run into dead ends being able to get the original paperwork for the car. What I can say is everything points to it originally being a 340hp Hi-Po. While I try to put “correct” parts on the car as I replace different things, I am willing to do deviate from original to improve drivability or durability (examples I’m considering – dual master cylinder change, front disk conversion, stainless exhaust). I also am willing to do things that would move it into what I would call a “Day-2” car (examples – ET Sebring wheels that look like the Halibrand racing wheels GM used in the period, and 670-15 Coker radial reproduction tires that look like period bias-plys).
With all that said……..here finally are my questions for the group:
1) As I note above, the car will not be a track car. The stopping distances on the stock parts aren’t as bad as you’d think from a 50-year old car. Should I bother with a front disk swap, or keep it simple and just do the Dual Master Cylinder swap for safety and leave things at that?
2) If I DO swap to front disks – will I also need a power assist booster? I know the 65’s and 66’s had disks at all 4 corners, and yet, power assist was an option. I’d like to avoid adding the booster because it (I believe) will require me to drill into my firewall so the booster’s 2 upper “legs” can be attached. Also, my understanding is my ’63 hood may require notching to allow for both a booster and dual master.
3) If I JUST go with the Dual Master conversion – I see the master cylinder most kits include is a 1” bore part. My understanding is my original non-power drum cylinder is 7/8” – will my brake pedal effort be affected significantly if I do this, and DON’T add the booster?
4) I see some of the Dual Master kits offer a proportioning valve, other don’t…….some kits offer residual pressure valves, and others don’t. Any insights on this?
Let me first say make these disclaimers/explanations:
The car will never be a track car. Nor may it ever be an NCRS-type restored car as it has a non-numbers matching engine block, and I have run into dead ends being able to get the original paperwork for the car. What I can say is everything points to it originally being a 340hp Hi-Po. While I try to put “correct” parts on the car as I replace different things, I am willing to do deviate from original to improve drivability or durability (examples I’m considering – dual master cylinder change, front disk conversion, stainless exhaust). I also am willing to do things that would move it into what I would call a “Day-2” car (examples – ET Sebring wheels that look like the Halibrand racing wheels GM used in the period, and 670-15 Coker radial reproduction tires that look like period bias-plys).
With all that said……..here finally are my questions for the group:
1) As I note above, the car will not be a track car. The stopping distances on the stock parts aren’t as bad as you’d think from a 50-year old car. Should I bother with a front disk swap, or keep it simple and just do the Dual Master Cylinder swap for safety and leave things at that?
2) If I DO swap to front disks – will I also need a power assist booster? I know the 65’s and 66’s had disks at all 4 corners, and yet, power assist was an option. I’d like to avoid adding the booster because it (I believe) will require me to drill into my firewall so the booster’s 2 upper “legs” can be attached. Also, my understanding is my ’63 hood may require notching to allow for both a booster and dual master.
3) If I JUST go with the Dual Master conversion – I see the master cylinder most kits include is a 1” bore part. My understanding is my original non-power drum cylinder is 7/8” – will my brake pedal effort be affected significantly if I do this, and DON’T add the booster?
4) I see some of the Dual Master kits offer a proportioning valve, other don’t…….some kits offer residual pressure valves, and others don’t. Any insights on this?
