'66 bumpers & bonding strips

[O Vette]

I love the C2's and have been looking at a couple that are for sale. However, the thought of buying a 50 year old car kind of scares me off. I realize that just about everything on them can be repaired - for a price - and that is the problem. So, I have a few questions for which help would be appreciated.
First, the surface of the rear bumpers on one car look "wavy" for lack of a better term. They have been re-chromed and I am wondering if that is what causes the "wavy" appearance. They seem flat when I run my hand across them.
Second, when the car was started (temperature was about 31 degrees) there was more exhaust visible from the driver side tail pipe. Put my hand next to the pipes and the exhaust on the driver's side seemed a bit stronger. seemed to become more equal after a minute or so. Could that be an indication of less compression from one side of the engine.
Third, are the bonding strips inside both the front and rear fenders in about the same place and are they more or less flush with the inside of the fender? One the front fenders, about 2-3 inches above the top of the wheel well I felt a strip that came out at a right angle from the inside of the fender (kind of like a 3/4" shelf).
Fourth, and last, were the intakes of the 65 and 66's the same in the 327/300 engines?
Thanks for any opinion.

 

[Toms007]

I love the C2's and have been looking at a couple that are for sale. However, the thought of buying a 50 year old car kind of scares me off. I realize that just about everything on them can be repaired - for a price - and that is the problem. So, I have a few questions for which help would be appreciated.
First, the surface of the rear bumpers on one car look "wavy" for lack of a better term. They have been re-chromed and I am wondering if that is what causes the "wavy" appearance. They seem flat when I run my hand across them.

I'm no expert, but I think that has to do with the chroming process. If it truly is flat then the "waviness" is caused by something else.

Second, when the car was started (temperature was about 31 degrees) there was more exhaust visible from the driver side tail pipe. Put my hand next to the pipes and the exhaust on the driver's side seemed a bit stronger. seemed to become more equal after a minute or so. Could that be an indication of less compression from one side of the engine.

Not sure how old you are or how much knowledge you have of "old technology", but back in the day The cars had heat risers on the passenger side (most often as I remember) that were, for better terminology, a "flapper" when cold the "flapper" would close (through a heat sensitive spring) and send heat air up to the carb until it warmed up. Then after warming sufficiently the "flapper" would open. My guess is that is what you are seeing in the lack of pressure on that side.

Third, are the bonding strips inside both the front and rear fenders in about the same place and are they more or less flush with the inside of the fender? One the front fenders, about 2-3 inches above the top of the wheel well I felt a strip that came out at a right angle from the inside of the fender (kind of like a 3/4" shelf).

Can't help you with this question, Tom Bryant might have a better idea.

Fourth, and last, were the intakes of the 65 and 66's the same in the 327/300 engines?

If I remember correctly, and I'm getting old and don't have the memory I used to have, :L the 65 and 66's did use the same intake manifolds for like horsepower engines. Casting dates would be of importance to you if you are looking to have the car judged down the road.

Thanks for any opinion.

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[O Vette]

Thanks very much. I never thought about the heat riser but, I am old enough to remember them. I have started in this game late in life with much to learn. Seems that if you can't do all the maintenance work yourself, and I can't, this endeavor could look like an endless money pit. But, then, you can't take it with you.

 

[Tom Bryant]

The area at the top of the wheel opening is a commonly damaged area on 1963 to 1967 Corvettes. It is usually a case of tire contact caused by larger/wider tires or the suspension being compressed while the wheel was turned out to full lock like turning up into a driveway. The bonding strip runs the full length of the fender and the 90* lip on it's bottom edge should run across the top of the wheel opening unbroken.

Tom

 

[O Vette]

Tom, thank you. Are the bonding strips on the rear fenders similar to the ones on the front?

 

[Tom Bryant]

No. The rear bonding strip runs along the top of the panel at the peak. There should be a lip around the full circumference of the wheel opening that is part of the outer skin. Often this has been cut away in spots for tire clearance.

Tom

 

[O Vette]

Tom, once again, thanks. Your help is very much appreciated.