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67 Rear Spring Replace and Install

JL66REDCPE

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 15, 2003
Messages
402
Location
South Jersey
Corvette
1966 Red Cpe 427/425
A couple questions on the rear spring. 1) what is the correct width to check for when I order a new one 2 1/4, 2 3/8, 2 1/2 etc. It looks like if the width is wrong the spring will not fit properly 2) I remember reading something about making sure you have the car on the ground with the weight on it before you tighten some of the rear spring bolts -- I dont remember which ones.???? 3) does the exhaust have to come off to remove the rear spring 4) was the exhaust system on a 67 welded together or clamped 5) are there any tips outside of the service manual you can share with me
 
One problem that I chased on my '66 was a noise that I thought was u-joints and it turned out to be a differental carrier bushing. I say this because if the spring is off it sure makes it easier to change. This bushing is made of rubber, which rots, and is overlooked alot.
 
Don't know about the exhaust issue as I have side exhaust. It's really a no brainer once you look at it all. Just put the car on jackstands. Place a jack under the spring near the trailing arm bolt to take the tension off it. Remove the nut and bolt and lower the jack slowly... Then do the other side. Next remove the four spring bolts from the differential. To re-install complete in reverse. About tightening the four spring bolts to the diff.. What the worry is that if you tighten it down before putting weight on the spring it will break the differential cover ears where the bolts go thru.. The spring will have a curve in it and not allow the proper tension on the bolts.. Just snug it a bit then lower the car on to the ground and torque to spec... I think that I have covered it but if not I know our good friends here on the forum will provide more details..Dave.
 
JimVette said:
One problem that I chased on my '66 was a noise that I thought was u-joints and it turned out to be a differental carrier bushing. I say this because if the spring is off it sure makes it easier to change. This bushing is made of rubber, which rots, and is overlooked alot.


Ditto... As for where to get this.. It seems that none of the supply houses send you the right length bolt so just get a grade 8. ZIP has the bushing but it doesn't look right so I got the correct on from LIC... Dave..
 
JL66REDCPE said:
4) was the exhaust system on a 67 welded together or clamped

The original factory system had the intermediate exhaust pipe welded to the muffler, but probably 99% have been replaced, and the replacement systems have the muffler inlet pipe clamped to the rear of the intermediate pipe.
:beer
 
For $80.00 I'd recommend heavy duty differential cover..

If your not concerned w/originality,when I upgraded to a fiberglass spring for my 67,I replaced the existing diff. cover w/ a Heavy duty cover from Corvette Central. I was concerned w/ possible cracks.Then had to order 8 inch long bolts to lower rear end to wear it needed to be. Rides great now. Good luck and have fun w/ your project. Jim
 
What are you helping a freind John or did you get another car?


Cant stress it enough that spring is dangerous.I had problems when removing the fiberglass spring on my 66 and when I jacked on the spring ends to compress the spring the car was coiming off of the jack stands.I ended up going to my father in laws shop and had to strap the car to a lift and then compress the spring to remove the bolts

I also use C clamps to keep the jack from sliding/walking

Use caution

Have fun
 
JL66REDCPE said:
A couple questions on the rear spring. 1) what is the correct width to check for when I order a new one 2 1/4, 2 3/8, 2 1/2 etc. It looks like if the width is wrong the spring will not fit properly 2) I remember reading something about making sure you have the car on the ground with the weight on it before you tighten some of the rear spring bolts -- I dont remember which ones.????

You need a 2-1/4" spring if you want it to fit the original rear cover. The bolts to only snug until the car is on wheels are the four big vertical bolts that attach the spring lower retaining plate; if you try and torque them fully with the spring arched, you risk breaking ears off the rear cover. Chevy didn't bother to put this little tidbit in the Chassis Service Manual until 1970 :eyerole
:beer
 

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