68 wiring help

[vigman]

Sir YES SIR

Standing by

Good luck

Mike

 

[Blastereod]

Mike,

I'm Back!. Got the lights to work by going from the lug next to the LPS fuse to a grey wire that is in the gauge panel...I know we tried this before but this time it worked. However I'd still like to hook everything up correctly. I checked the two grounds behind the speedo and tach...good to go. i don't have the dash all the way apart sooooo I'm not sure on the ground above the hood latch area. The light in the heater/AC still does not work..neither does the cig lighter.???? weird.. anyway wanted to get you this news and see what you thought... I'm going to go back out and play somemore.... any info would help
thanks
Hoo yah
bob

 

[vigman]

Ok

The CIGAR lighter( as refered in the book)
is a single 18 ga orange wire running back to the fuse panel VIA the clock & courtesy lights circut.

It grounds locally as do your lights in the dash.

Question here
By jumpering from the tang on the fuse panel and tying to the grey wires in the (assuming) Speedo & Tach those now work..and they dim up & down.. what about the center console, fuel, amp,coolant,etc..those all working?

Its now the AC controls light that is malfunctioning?

Mike

 

[vigman]

Grounds

See if the ground in the AC light does make it to ground... use an ohm meter.

I smell a rat here, somethings fishy.

Have you had the engine out?
any major accidents?
any big work done in recent history, Clutch, starter????!!!!!

If you tie your ohm meter to Batt Negative

Any black wire, any metal point on the frame,
any metal point on the chassis, engine block
should read 1 or 2 ohm's MAX ( of couse depending on your meter et al.)

Mike

 

[Blastereod]

Mike,
Found the orange wire to the cigar lighter..it has +12 going to it. - I jumped from the tang in the fuse panel to grey wire on center console. All lights working (including Heater) except the one that goes to the Cig lighter ( I replaced the bulb once but will check again) Also would you run the lights from that tang??

I haven't had the vette long but the engine has been rebuilt (not by me)and most of the other "restoring" has been done. The wiring actually looks new in most places.

The only thing that I can figure is the last guy put in a CD player and there are also wires that indicate he had a amp and a few more speakers. I found one Grey and one black wire cut , coming from the bundle that goes from the center console toward the speedo/tach area. I'm guessing these had to do with the original radio?? ( that is where I tied into the fuse panel tang)

And I found two black wires together(side by side) with a clip on the end under the shifter area. I could'nt locate where these may connect to???

I'll check the ground with the ohm meter tomorrow.
thanks
Hoo Yah
bob

 

[vigman]

Around radio

Yes you can run the lighting from the tang.

The ciggy lighter should have a ground tang!

Are the mystery wires around the radio?

Check the blacks go to ground..if they do cap em off ( for now) If they don't nail em to ground ( you never can have to good of a ground.

The grey wire around the speedo area COULD be the mystery feed down to the fuse block,
Ohm it out.

More later,
Mike

 

[Blastereod]

The ciggy has nor ground tang.just a orange wire that goes to the center of the lighter housing

The mystery wires are to the left of the radio if you were sitting in the sit. ( thats grey and black wires that were cut

I'll ground the black wires that are by the shifter.

I'll let you know when I get that done...got duty this weekend so not sure how much will get done
Hoo yah
bob

 

[vigman]

More lighter electrons

According to the book,
Under the center console
between the partition between the shift boot
& the ashtray there is a lug ( on the underside) screwed to the metal plate ( center console )

That is the ground for the ciggy lighter & the lamp for it.


Mike

 

[Blastereod]

Hoo yah
will look for it thanks
bob

 

[vigman]

Hoo YA

Were back!

Where are you?

Mike

 

[Blastereod]

Mike,
Hoo yah good to hear from you again. Well you not going to believe this but, after I got done making all the "fixes" we discussed and made a wire running from the grey wires to the LPS lug I found a black wire by the drivers side door ajar button. So I did like yousaid and grounded all black wires. Well I tried the dash light and they all worked! The kicker is....I didn't connect the spare wire from the grey wire to the LPS lug. So it looks like it was a ground alll along! Anyway I am putting the dash back together and will turn my attention to the back up lights. and also the dome lights that are behind the seats. I'll let you know how its going when I get the dash back in. I also noticed a grounded strap underneath the car that is not hooked up...it is hanging down alittle approx under the passenger seat.
thanks for the help...I'm sure I'll have more questions
Hoo yah
bob

 

[vigman]

YeeeeeeeHHHHHHHHAAAWWWWWWWWW

Cool news.. ready for the next mystery!

Mike

 

[Blastereod]

Mike,

Well got everything working and driving..however, I had to get a new battery first and have found a couple of wires..(I believe they were part of a stero system) that were draing the battery. My nxt question is......How do I tell if "something is continually draining my batt"? I did the test where you take the neg batt terminal off and hook one end of a test light to it the other to the terminal. the test light comes on dim and fades off. Any thoughts
bob

 

[vigman]

Will get back tonight

HAve a motor I gotta get going on



Mike

 

[vigman]

Current Flow 101

If you take a test light and hook it up in series with the neg batt terminal it will act as a current meter, If it lights.. something is going on. Now mind you if you try to do anything electrical in the car you might pop the light in your test light. That being said.

Hook it up that way.. and start pulling fuses one at a time till the light goes out (about 200 ma) back track & find out whats stuck on.

Usual suspects

1) After market Stereo's/alarms/power antenna's.

2) The factory clock ( even if it's not working it can still draw current IF the "points" are closed.)

3) Alternator remove the 2 pin connector sometimes the internal regulator leaks( no not oil.. but a diode) Also check the output terminal.

4) After market ignition.

5) Electric choke ( if not wired properly )

6) Electric fuel pump ( If not wired properly)

7) A mis aligned Ignition switch COULD leave some accessory's on

8) Aftermarket alternator noise supression.


Now when the light goes out.. that doesn't mean you have killed ALL the current draw..it means you have reduced it.. now get a REAL meter and continue.

Mike

 

[Blastereod]

Will do. thanks. Any guidelines on getting a "real meter"?
bob

 

[vigman]

Anything over 150.00

And not from Radio Schlock

Mike