'80 not starting! Why? dunno...

[JENSHAMMER@HOTMAIL.COM]

1980 L48, has had some trouble before. Heres the story, I was blowing out carbs, found out had to have a fuel filter. easy. added one, drove out of the garage, someone says "you're leaking fuel" pushed it back in the garage, put on the right size fuel filter. It's a see-through type, I think FRAM. It's working, fuel is going through the carb. After that, no starting. None of this matters though, thats just the backstory. Now, I can crank it over (I have an MSD 6A, but since the beginning of "not starting" I replaced with stock quipment) but no spark at the plugs. OK, no spark going into the wires from the cap. Odd. Coil is getting power, that tested good. Rotor doesnt look great, the tip is a bit scraped, it's only 6 months or so old. Inside the cap is a small burn, maybe from when the timing was being adjusted and spark jumped? Anways, I will replace everything when I have some money, but for the next couple weeks I have to replace only what is broken.

So my question is, with the help of an airplane electrician and some basic multi meter tools, how do I test what I believe to be the "problem" parts? This would be the coil, rotor, cap, plug wires and the module inside the ditributor. The ditributor is a mallory HEI replacement, the wires are 8mm taylor spiro-pro's, the coil I cannot remember if it's the stock, or if it's the aftermarket msd blaster. The module is the stock module. What should I test, how should I test it, and what numbers should I be looking for?

Your help is appreciated, this is my only car so I need it to run soon or my job may not be happy. I guess they like you to show up or something.

Jens Hammer.

 

[mkapp7879]

My low mile Pace Car all of a sudden wouldn't start. No spark at the plugs. Didn't do any other checking, just replaced the ignition module. Started right up. It did run a little rough before the new module. Yours run rough? Been told modules just go out without any warning but not too sure about that.
Mike

 

[curtis]

I would just change the cap and rotor (about $20) sounds like they need it anyway. the spark could have burned thru the rotor and is grounding out on the distributor shaft. Modules seldom go bad unless they got too hot, and that is usually from insufficient white snot you put on the bottom before you install it. Be certain the rubber ring is in the cap underneath the coil. Look for arc marks on the coil laminations as a sign of leaking spark (bad coil). should have some sort of continuity thru both of the coil windings. Ohm readings unsure of. good luck!