Help! 82 won't start

[Scotts82CE]

Hello all, I am new and I think I might get some answers here.Took my 82 CE out for a drive, started up just fine, went about 10 miles with no problem, as I slowed down at a light, I noticed it started running rough. As I tried to accelerate, I could only get up to about 30-35 and had to pull into a parking lot.It never started again. Things I have done: Replaced fuel filter, twice, new cap, rotor and module. New 02 sensor. I see plenty of fuel coming out of the injectors. It tries to start but never does. One time I did have flames out of both carbs. Have never had a problem before and the car has always been reliable. Guess that is what I get for changing the oil ! lol

 

[bill81vette]

1st welcome to CAC!!!!!
OK,you have changed the cap etc,
Have you checked for a spark??
and how many miles do you have on it????

 

[Scotts82CE]

Hey Bill, I checked each plug wire post by running a wire to the hood spring and hanging it there.....I saw spark each time, sometimes blue, couple times orange, maybe I did not try to crank the motor enough. Car has 82K on it.

 

[bill81vette]

I wonder if it jumped time???

 

[Scotts82CE]

It was odd how it just happened....I do not know how to check the timing, have to speak to me like first time owner but with good hands. Will I need a timing light? Like I said, it tries to start. How would it just jump timing?:ugh

 

[bill81vette]

how long has the gas been in it???

 

[Scotts82CE]

I put 5 gallons in it back in April. I know bad gas will make something run rough, but to not even start? And when I replaced the gas filters, I poured it into a small bucket and it looked very clean. Just like to get it started first, then tune it in. I missing a great driving day !! :cry

 

[tmkassin]

Hook up a timing light and have somebody crank it over while you check it. If it is off by more than 10 degrees it jumped time.

 

[TimAT]

The ignition is making sparks, the distributor is sending a signal to the injectors (they're spraying while cranking), pull a couple of spark plugs and see what they look like. If they are drowned in fuel that could be your problem. Pull the dipstick and smell it. Drop the oil off the stick on a clean white paper towel. Oil will make a dark spot, and if there's gas in the oil the gas will pull out on the towel and show a lighter color ring around the oil. (I just use a lighter- hold the flame under the dipstick- if it flares, there's gas there. It's a small enough amount of fuel it won't "blow up" as I was told it would on another forum. YOUR CALL!) If there's gas in the oil, the cylinder walls have washed down. You'll need to change the oil and replace the spark plugs. A little shot of oil into the cylinders won't hurt, but probably won't help much either. If there's no gas in the oil, and the plugs look good, then it may be the timing chain has given up. Do the above BEFORE you decide to get serious. After that, do a compression check. That will tell you the timing chain has or has not died.

 

[82ColEd]

Howdie Fellow CE owner..

Not a wrencher here either, but did you try and pull the codes on the CEL? Maybe that could give you something to go after? If you have it, let us know we can then decipher it for you if you dont have a Service Manual.

Keep them fingers crossed it's a nice easy cheap fix..

-Stefan

 

[Scotts82CE]

I will do the dipstick check first. Then the timing when I can get a timing light. Is setting the timing an action that requires removal of major components? I was planning on replacing all the wires and plugs anyways. Happy Memorial Day all!

 

[Scotts82CE]

How does one pull codes? lol.....is there a repair manual called C3 vettes for dummies?

 

[TimAT]

I will do the dipstick check first. Then the timing when I can get a timing light. Is setting the timing an action that requires removal of major components? I was planning on replacing all the wires and plugs anyways. Happy Memorial Day all!

There is a label under the hood that tells you to disconnect the 4 wire connector at the distributor to set the base timing. (memory about the connector, it's been a long time, but the label has the info)

How does one pull codes? lol.....is there a repair manual called C3 vettes for dummies?

If I remember, there is a plug under the ashtray- Jumper pins "A" and "B" with a paper clip or a wire. With the key on, the check engine light will flash the codes. THe first one that comes up is 12 and it shows as a single flash, the two flashes in a set of three. It's a little confusing trying to explain it but it's kind of morse code. On,off,on,on,off,pause, then repeat. I've not seen the C3 repair for dummies manual. It'd be a handy thing to have. I quit working for Chevrolet in 1988 so it's been a while and the memory is not what it was. Does a YouTube video count?http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ldbgn1h__6I

 

[Scotts82CE]

I got the morse code thing. The video was a great help. I will dig deep into this later. Thank you.

 

[Scotts82CE]

Alright, I did the oil dipstick check, no gas aka flame. Did the code check, just got 12 over and over, I stopped at 4. Back for more later.

 

[TimAT]

Just getting a code 12 is a good thing. That says all of the sensors are intact and doing their job(s). From this point, I'd pull the distributor cap off so you can see the rotor, then turn the crank by hand opposite the normal direction (normal is clockwise looking at it from the front). It will help if you remove the spark plugs too. See how far you turn the crank before the rotor starts to move. If you get more than 5-10* of crank rotation with no movement of the rotor, the timing chain needs replacing.

 

[Scotts82CE]

hello all I am back......well......GOT IT RUNNING !!! New fuel pump, found out the pressure was only about 6, bought the entire sending unit and dropped it in place. Fired it up, let it idle for awhile, then took it for a 5 mile ride. Gradually eased it up to about 70 oot: Pulled back home, let it idle, looked like on the tach is was about 600-650. Shut it down for an hour. Restart, let it idle for a minute or 2, now the idle fluctuates between 5-700, this is not acceptable, lol. Has new O2 sensor, cap,rotor,wires,fuelpump, seems like all my hoses are hooked up and connections are strong. Any clues? and what else should I replace at 82k that does not involve major work? And thank you to all that helped before.

 

[ZZ1-70 LT4-96]

iac

hello all I am back......well......GOT IT RUNNING !!! New fuel pump, found out the pressure was only about 6, bought the entire sending unit and dropped it in place. Fired it up, let it idle for awhile, then took it for a 5 mile ride. Gradually eased it up to about 70 oot: Pulled back home, let it idle, looked like on the tach is was about 600-650. Shut it down for an hour. Restart, let it idle for a minute or 2, now the idle fluctuates between 5-700, this is not acceptable, lol. Has new O2 sensor, cap,rotor,wires,fuelpump, seems like all my hoses are hooked up and connections are strong. Any clues? and what else should I replace at 82k that does not involve major work? And thank you to all that helped before.

Does the 1982 have a IAC (idle air control valve)?

 

[82ColEd]

Does the 1982 have a IAC (idle air control valve)?

Yes it does. And it needs to be set for the Pins to control it properly.

 

[TimAT]

I've seen a few with the IAC passages in the throttle bodies full of gunk. Looking at the TB's, on the front there is a square 4 wire connector that plugs into them. Those are the IAC solenoids. If you then look down at the top of the TB, you can see an odd shaped passage in line with the solenoids- kind of square but with a tail. Get a can of your favorite carb cleaner, start the engine and start spraying the carb cleaner down that passage a little at a time. Also make sure that all of the vacuum hoses are in good shape- a vacuum leak will drive the IAC's (and idle speed control) crazy.