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84 w/CF won't start

Joined
Dec 27, 2001
Messages
160
Location
Matthews, NC USA
Corvette
1984 Coupe
Some time ago I posted about my 84 that the previous owner had put a holley carburetor and aluminum intake.

Since then, I've been buying all CF parts and finally replaced the intake.

Car won't start. Not even a hint of starting.

Distributor alignment OK ( I think). When Balancer mark at TDC(0 deg), piston is up, rotor pointed at #1 on Dist. cap.

Getting power to dist.

Getting spark to plugs

Injectors pumping fuel.

All unconnected vacuume lines pluged.

Anyone experienced this condition before or have suggestions on what to test next?

Thanks,

Ken
 
I would make sure even though distributor is on #1 the engine could still be 180 degrees out ..... try lifting distributor out and pointing it to the #6 plug terminal and see if it tries to start
 
could the injector connectors be reveresed?
 
I don't think so because of the cable lengths, But anything is possible.

Both injectors are flowing fuel at the same time, so I don't know how that would affect starting.

Ken
 
You have spark & fuel and it won't start? Weird!

Did you check if the plugs weren't extremely wet or fouled?

Marck
 
Have you tried spraying some starting fluid in the injector housing while cranking?

The reason I suggest, is you may be getting fuel, but not enough to start.

You may also very well have the distributor out of time just enough not to start.

Loosen the hold down clamp, and rotate it back and forth while having somebody start it. You will know when it is getting close because it will start, or start trying to start.

Make sure as well you simply did not mix up the plug wires. IT is a common mistake. If you have as few as two wires reversed, and bad initial timing, it won't start.

I have been guilty of all the above, so it comes from experience.


Good luck!
 
Man....you have all of the things to make a fire. I cant possibly think what the heck is causing your no-go.

PS if the dist. is 180 off then you would get BAD backfiring *points to previously singed eyebrows*
 
Hello, my name is Terry. I have specialized in the upgrade of the CROSSFIRE. If you have fire and gas from the Injectors, the only thing it should be is 180 degrees off timing. I know if you replace the timing chain and cam and you align the dist. on #1 it will not be right you have to align it on #6. You can e-mail me for any other tips.
 
Sounds like the timing may be 180 out. I check it tomorrow and let you know.

Thanks for all the advice,

Ken
 
DUDE!

So here's the trick.......

Pull the #1 plug.

Disconnect distrib power ( RED )

remove distrib cap.

Have somebody crank the car.

Put finger over the #1 hole

Watch the distrib position as the compression BLOWS you finger away.

The distrib should be pointing twds the #1 hole as your finger gets POPPED.

Using quick key blips, get it as close as you can.This is a bit of finness with the key to get it right.


NOW CAREFULLY get a breaker bar and move the timing mark BACK to TDC..

( Read close enough for the breaker bar to get the right amount of leverage to move the TDC mark back to "O")

DO NOT USE GORILLA FORCE...YOU WILL SNAP THE BOLT!

AND the more plugs you pull the easier it will be!

18436572 firing order.

Looking at the top the rotation is CLOCKWISE.

The engine is now lined up to TDC.

To confirm this stick a screwdriver down the #1 hole and rotate the crank A FEW DEGREES to make sure it's at TDC... this will confirm the Harmonic balancer has not slipped.

Put a DAB of white paint on the mark.

Now you MUST have removed the distrib to remove the Holley & Intake.

The problem here is as the distrib comes up
(OUT) it twists the oil pump drive tang 1 tooth of rotation... unless you stick a screwdriver down the empty hole and turn it back a bit... you will be off.


The distrib ( when installed correctly) the ROTOR tip will point @ the #1 hole.

You will have to look at the bottom of the distrib and the oil pump drive to line em up.

PUT A NEW GASKET ON THE BASE OF THE DISTRIB.

Re hook all your wires.

Crank.

Set timing.

ZOOM!


Vig!
 
Vig reminds me of a problem I had with my '84.

The harmonic damper outer ring slipped, relative to the inner, making timing impossible. The damper material between the 'core' and the outer ring had deteriorated, allowing the slippage.

Good luck!
 
Ken,

Your welcome... been VERY busy @ work.

No FUN time.

No time on 327 motor to build it.

WAHHHHH!

Vig!
 
I finally got the car started on Saturday.

All I did to start it was to step on the gas pedal to open the venturies in the TBs and it started. I guess it wasn't getting enough gas to start.

Anyway, It runs but not very smooth. I suspect that I may still have a vacuume leak some where.

Thanks for the Help,

Ken
 
That sounds like severely fouled plugs. Keep it running for some time and when the engine gets hot it'll get better. When it idles take it for a spin and drive it like you stole it! This plug fouling is caused by frequent starting & shutting down without letting the engine warm up.

Marck
 
Does the check engine light come on?

Wanna bet your throttle position sensor is not set correctly?

OR

Your IAC motors aren't moving correctly.


Does the car run ok OFF IDLE?


Are you getting error codes?


If I understood correctly, the bottom end was the orig 84..... find the casting numbers

( Drivers side, rear of the block near distrib.)

If it's not... that MAY open a second can O Worms......

More input.....




Vig!
 
All I know about the motor is that it has low milage. When I took the old intake off, the intake valley was very clean. No varnish anywhere.

How do you set the TPS?

How can you tell if the IACs are working properly?

I doubt the motor is an 84, But I could be wrong.

I'll trying running the motor for about 15 - 20 minutes to see if it it smooths out.


Ken
 
The TPS has to be set at 0,525V w/ engine off, throttle at 0 and ign. on.

To do it you'll need a TPS set tool (a pigtail) or you need to hack up the wires (not good) so buy the tool (most parts houses have them). measure the voltage to set it, you can use the other lead to check if the impedance changes uniformly. If not the TPS is shot.

You can test the IAC's by grounding the ALDL. The IAC's shoudl cycle in & out. On idle the pintles should be visible in the kidney shaped bores. If you apply the throttle the IAC's should retract. Also, IAC pos only resets when driving above 35mph.

Why do you doubt the engine is an 84? You chn check the suffix on the pass. side cylinder deck. If the engine is low mileage and/or hsa run on clean (synthetic?) oil it'll be very clean. My 32k engine was clean as a whissle too (82 engine).

If the engine has roller lifters it's defenitely not 84.

Marck
 
TPS

What exactly does the TPS do?

If it isn't set up properly, what effect would it have?

I haven't set it according to twinnie's instructions yet, but will this week.

Once I have the engine running, and let off the throttle quickly, it dies.

Also, I have notice alot of Black exhaust residue on the ground after I start it.

Ken
 

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