85 C-4

[stutz427]

After a long time without a vette, I am starting to look at buyng a C-4. I think the 85 ight be my best bet since the engine is improved over the 84 and you can get a low mileage one reasonable. ( I have two kide in college!). But here is two questons. Other than price, can anyone comment on the different years of the C-4's. Issues like performance and ride is what I am looking at. Second, what are easy and the least coslty performance upgrades you can to to the TPI engine. I am experienced with engine work and just finished a Ford 460 but not real familiar with the electronics.

 

[vetteboy86]

Not sure if you will get the answers you are looking for in this area of the site, perhaps a moderator can move it to the C4 Tech discussion. There have been several threads about this type of thing.

Basically when looking to buy a C4, buy the newest you can afford. They only got better over the years. I good fit for you would probably be an 87 or 88 or even an 89. I have an 86 vert, and it is great. The thing to remember is that you get what you pay for no matter what corvette it is. There are several mods, try doing a search for something like that in the C4 Tech discussion. If you have anymore questions, you could ask in that area, we are mostly all good at getting answers to you, or just shoot me a PM. Where in MICH are you located??

Oh and welcome to the CAC

 

[aoriii]

Got one for you

vetteboy86, if you've got your heart set on an 85, I've got one I'm trying to sell. It's got about 70K on it, and I'm asking $6000 for it. I'm located in Alabama (long drive from Michigan, but...). email me if you're interested :

trey.reese at gmail.com

 

[Vettefan87]

I moved this to the C4 General forum since it is a general question about C4's.

 

[speedmaster4]

86 was a big jump up electronics/alum heads/window mech/lots other

88 was small step back with front susp changes

89 the elec nightmares exploded.

92 went lt1--great mech/more elec gremlims

find one that wraps itself around ur leg and wont let go--they're all good,none perfect
luved them '385' ferds..ran em in 'wet vettes' (jet boats).. too bad even 460s are gettin hard/expensive to find...funny how bbchev rockers fit on so easy.
dont let the electronics scare ya--if a dummy like me can live with it,anybody can.

 

[koolaid117]

While everyone says buy the newest one you can afford, I say look around and buy the one you want and don't settle for something else. The C4 did pretty much get better every year, but if you have your heart set on an 85, find the best one you can. But, just remember that the "newest" C4 (1996) is ten years old and only getting older and are going to require maintenance. As far as upgrades, there are a lot more people on this forum that can help you with that. I'm not sure where you are in Michigan, but I got my 1990 ZR-1 from the Vette Store near Cadillac, MI, and they were very helpful.

Good Luck and keep us posted!!

Jim

 

[Vettefan87]

The 85 engine internals are far stronger in stock form then those of an 86, or an 87 since they are forged I believe. Which makes it easier to go with a supercharger or a shot of nitrous. Good luck in your searches.

 

[G Winter]

little over a yr ago I was looking at the same yr range.. 85 or 86 but ended up with a 90 for so little more I couldn't pass on it.. for $2000 more than and 86 I got a 90 with 40k less miles.

Glenn

 

[vetteboy86]

I would like to think others here will agree with me, there really isn't a bad vette, some are just better then others. Alot of people dog on the 84, but 20 years ago it was way ahead of its time. You need to have a plan on what you want, and then persue that. We can help you as far as info about mechanics, or mods if that is what you are interested in. But you have to pick out the car. If you find any, let us know.

Craig

 

[koolaid117]

I would like to think others here will agree with me, there really isn't a bad vette, some are just better then others. Alot of people dog on the 84, but 20 years ago it was way ahead of its time. You need to have a plan on what you want, and then persue that. We can help you as far as info about mechanics, or mods if that is what you are interested in. But you have to pick out the car. If you find any, let us know.

Craig

I agree Craig. We are all Corvette lovers or we wouldn't be on this site. I may be wrong, but I think that the 84 Z51 still has the stiffest suspension of all the C4's.

 

[tyrel]

I agree that you get what you pay for. One thing is for sure, you will be making repairs on pretty much any C4 you buy. As an owner of an 89, which BTW has pretty much the same electronics, I don't agree that an 89 has "electrical nightmares". Look for a car that has a service history, complete with all receipts, this is a sign that the previous owner(s) have taken care of it. I also don't agree that "they're all good", because there are some real dogs out there. For example, if a C4 has been in an accident, it's almost impossible to get the bumpers lined up correctly again unless the guy who put it back together took the time to do it right. A car with no service history is like buying a house without looking at it. It can come with all kinds of little surprises. Vacuum leaks, radiator problems, water pump going out, brake booster, u-joints, master cylinder, leaking gaskets, a/c not working, fuel pump going out, faulty fuel injectors, etc., the list is endless. Sure you can buy a $4,000 C4 but mark my words you will be spending a lot of time on it. I like the L98 engine, which they used from 85-91, it is a good engine coupled with the popular 700r4 if you like automatic, but the zf six-speed wasn't introduced until 89 if you like manual. All in all, I still agree that you should buy the best one you can afford, take it to a mechanic and have it checked out before you buy it, you'll be glad you did.

 

[Larry's Yellow Rdstr]

Good general advice from the CAC members. Have you given any thought to body style? I bought a roadster 7 months ago and have had very little mechanical problems. I redid the suspension and brakes. Its good to go for another 100,000 miles.
I like the convertible because it doesn't seem like it ages. Put the top down on a nice day/night and enjoy!

Welcome aboard and keep the wave.

 

[Toms007]

When I started looking I wasn't sure which year/feathers/options I wanted, so I bought the book by Michael [FONT=verdana,arial,helvetica][SIZE=-1]Antonick[/SIZE][/FONT] "Vette Specs 1984-1996". It was very informative, taking each year and explaining what the changes were and what options and features were available. With lots of pictures and information. Well worth the price I paid and helped me decide which year(s) I was interested in. I found it very informative and refer to it quite a bit (I wish it was available in hard cover).

Oh. Welcome to CAC.

 

[Mad-Mic]

After a long time without a vette, I am starting to look at buyng a C-4. I think the 85 ight be my best bet since the engine is improved over the 84 and you can get a low mileage one reasonable. ( I have two kide in college!). But here is two questons. Other than price, can anyone comment on the different years of the C-4's. Issues like performance and ride is what I am looking at. Second, what are easy and the least coslty performance upgrades you can to to the TPI engine. I am experienced with engine work and just finished a Ford 460 but not real familiar with the electronics.

this is what i suggest....

1. since you do mechanic work of your own doing a heads/cam/intake combo on an 85 with low milage either A4 700R4 or 4+3 you have a bad ass car. if you plan to upgrade to a nice set of 17" rims like the popular ZR1 rim package 9.5x 17" 11x17" tire package on a Z51 car would handle like a bat out of hell with 360+ rwhp. since you'll have forged piston but crap heads this kind of combo would work good with a 100-150 shot of nitrous.for a low low 11's on the shot and high 11's N/A at sealevel maybe better doing about 450-500 rwhp depending on the 100-150 shot.

Costs:
85 Vette A4 or 4+3 30-40k milage 6k
intake miniram 1300 new 900-1000 used
ZZ9 or ZZ409 roller cam 400 new 200 used
aluminum after market heads + roller rockers 1400+ new 1000+ used
retro-roller lifter kit 400 new
exhaust (cat back+ mufflers) 400 - 1000
new plus TPiS long tube headers 750 new 300-400 usd
underdrive pulley set 120 new
MAT relocation 50 new
Accell cap/rotor/coil/160 tstat 120 new
K&N filter cut lid 50 new
3200 stall for A4 300-400 used 700+ new + 50 tranny cooler TransGo shift kit 100 new
4+3 aftermarket clutch like Mcloud 400+? not sure
custom chip 300+
*Nitrous setup 1000-1400 new
*A4's come with Dana 36 rears. These *Could* break after 350 lbs torque and higher stalls. Uprade is D44 out of a Stick car. 3.45 or 3.52 gear set would do great with the 3200 stall and would drop .3+ in the 1/4. . I've seen them blow at 13.0's or make many passes with stroker motors into the 11's and still run strong after 3+ seasons at the track. Your call to cut down costs. stock D36 will last on the street just sooner or later it will break. Dana 44 hub to hub/c-beamdriveshaft/halfshafts 1200-1800+ used.

***last but not least 2 9.5x17" 2 11x17" 5 star AMold ZR1 rims + 4 Tires. 2 285/40/17" 2 315/35/17" tires 1200+ Used newer 88-90 rims like mine in 17" or LT1 rims all 9.5x17" + tires 800-1000

on the cheap side finding deals N/A less rims and D44 upgrade $9390 Total investment. mind as well round up to $9500+ for misc like valve covers, gaskets, ect for a Nice running 85 L98 with 360+ rwhp for less than 10k.

+Rims 10,300-10,700+
+Nitrous 11,300 - 12,100+
+Dana 44 12,500-13,900+

Well Since our down to the Short Block mind as well pull it and go for 400+ rwhp N/A
383 stroker rotating assembly+ machining and prep 1200-2500 using your block. 15,700+ - 16,400+

or buy a clean 30k-40k 90 for 12k and still have to do the heads/cam/intake+ extra's 14k-16k+

really depends what you want. if you want a cruiser go with the 90 if your not going to mod it or mod it much but if you want to mod it into a hot rod then i would say the 85 is the way to go. my friends 85 stock 3.07 geared A4 3500 stalled Super Ram ZZ409 cam 383 stroker on ET Streets running 11.70's at 118+ mph on the stock chip.

*edit* add a 50 dollar AFPR to the + part

sound about right?

 

[vetteboy86]

I also don't agree that "they're all good", because there are some real dogs out there. .

I know some vettes out there aren't nearly the same buying potential as others. That is what I meant by the statement, "some are better then others", but I admit some cars are in bad shape, but there isn't a single one of them that couldn't be brought back with some time and money.

 

[db2]

Yep.The 85 is a pretty good choice.I have a Red Cpe with the 4+3 trans.

One thing you must remember,the 85 is 21 years old so EXPECT something to leak,hum,rattle & buzz and break! It's part of the JOY of owning an older car.

I've had several Vettes and the early C4 bodystyle is one of my favorites.Second only to the 63-68.

\db2
carolina

 

[speedmaster4]

first an apology to tyrel..didnt mean to tweak ur beak..just voicing opinion based on my experiences and comment of gm tech friends..

and,in my opinion, the newer they get ,the worst the electrics are---getting down to 'lucas' level in c5/6 with batteries going dead / doors openning while driving / windows that wont close or open / throttle runaways/ etc....early c4 are less 'electromotional' than late c4--less gizmos=less failures=less shop time and more playtime (unless ur idea of play involves elec gremmies)

 

[Larry's Yellow Rdstr]

Some people attempt to dazzle others with lists of upgrades costing thousands of dollars, that have little practical use for everyday driving. I think the guy who is looking for an older C4 for a pleasure car with a few mods isn't interested in reading some poster's claim to fame.

 

[aboatguy]

The newer the better! I did not want OBDII so I went with a 95 however, by 95 all of the LT1 gremlins were finally worked out.
The later C4s have less squeeks and rattles and stock they have 50 HP more than the best year L98. I have not had any electronic/electrical/mechanical problems with my car and I drive it everyday. So don't listen to the nay sayers that complain about percieved problems with a model year they don't own. My friends that own C5 don't have lucas like electrical problems either.

As some have stated the Corvette is an evolutionary car and generally each year they got better. However, I never, buy a first year anything from GM since the first years seem to have trouble. So for me an 84 is out so's the 85 (first l98) The early aluminum head L98s had problems even when new, I know that the star wars dash has its own gremlins. The 92-94 LT1 had a crappy distributer, which was finally fixed in 95.
So if you want an L98 IMO 89-91 are the best choices and for an LT1 95-96 Now if you want a ZR1 I think that they are all good choices.

Mike

 

[jsinga]

I've got a 200k mile 87 coupe. It has been extremely reliable.
NEWS FLASH, it's almost 20 years old and most of the rubber is getting kind of shabby. All of it is terribly expensive.
These cars have sealed wheel bearings. About 100k miles and they are loose and the car will wallow around in rutted roads and you won't know why.
Rear half-shaft u-joints are about the same, they are cheaper to fix. Car got the shakes at 75mph and tires are round and balanced, it needs u-joints. Don't pay a premium for a cream puff old car unless u-joints and wheel bearings are new. 95-96 all have the 13" brakes. They stop a lot better than the pre 88 cars.
Shop around and get the newest nicest car you can afford. I think you can spend more fixing one than buying a nice one.
Don't not think about an early C5. An LS1 is pretty quick stock.

JS