86 with starting problems

[RV Guy]

I just got my first Corvette after waiting many many years. It has a starting problem. On occasion when you turn the key - nothing. No click or sound of any type. The dash lights up like normal. It just doesn't start. Wait a few minutes, maybe five or so, and it starts right up. An experienced Corvette mechanic though it might be a bad starter motor so it was replaced. Still has the same very intermittent problem.

Any ideas?

 

[Ken]

That question is as old as the cars themselves. I had the very same problem and never did figure it out.

Mine is a manual (a 4+3 it was) and it would start if I pushed it and popped the clutch, which should rule out the VATS, but as I said, we never could figure it out. Bud (Rare81) and Jeff (BlackDog) know what I went through. ad

Good luck.

 

[rrubel]

Anybody tried replacing the neutral-start switch on the clutch pedal? Mine's done this maybe twice since I got the car, so I haven't worried about tracking it down yet.
[RICHR]

 

[B17Crew]

Vehicle Anti-Theft System (VATS)

RV Guy,

I experienced the same intermittent no-start problem on the ‘86 I had. It was an automatic coupe. One thing to investigate would be the pellet that is embedded in your ignition key. You can have the dealer clean it till it shines like a diamond; that isn’t going to fix it. I also referenced an article in my Corvette archives, I looked up this information in the April, 1991 issue of Corvette Fever magazine. Pages 28-30.

The ‘86 key had a short shank, in mid ‘87, GM had a service replacement key that had a lengthened shank to resolve the intermittent no-start problem. The VIN that the fix was put in place starts with car H5120579, this car on up have the updated shank. I think the pellet may have been enlarged as well.

‘86 was the inaugural year of the Vehicle Anti-Theft System (VATS). The problem was that it had soft metal contact points at the pellet, and the lock cylinder wore down prematurely causing the VATS module to shut down your ignition and fuel delivery systems. The problem may not occur immediately as many Corvettes are not driven daily, so it will take some time for the wear to occur. There were reports of the VATS intermittent no-start problem occurring up into ‘88 models as well.

Have a dealer insert your key to a VATS Interrogator, it will identify which of the 15 codes your key possesses and will help determine if your key IS the problem. If the key pellet tests ok, the problem may lie with the lock cylinder, a bad ground or an intermittent VATS Module.

I am not aware of what the repair cost would be, but I would not expect it to be astronomical. I hope it’s a simple fix whatever it may be -- plenty of good driving days left before nasty weather gets here.

Please keep us posted so we can learn from your experience.

B17Crew

 

[Ken]

Anybody tried replacing the neutral-start switch on the clutch pedal? Mine's done this maybe twice since I got the car, so I haven't worried about tracking it down yet.
[RICHR]

You know Rich, you just might be on to something in my case. That was about the only item I neglected to check, and it makes sense as to why it would run if I popped the clutch. I must keep that in mind for future reference. I no longer run a clutch safety switch - I just remember to keep it in neutral.

Thanks!

_ken

 

[JD-vette]

Yes,it is defintely the key. my 88 vette had this problem and it turned out I need a new key. I think these year models have antitheft sysem and the pellet in the key control this wih a resistance. If the key is bad/faulty when you try to start, antitheft would kick in and disable the car, howerver you still have power but it wont start after about 5 to 10 minutes for the anitheft system to reboot again.

Hope this help.

 

[vigman]

Bypass the VATS

86 was the first & worst year for this problem..

If the pellet looks worn... you will have a problem starting.. and a NO CRANK condition.

In addition as the car gets OLDER your clutch saftey switch gets SUSPECT.. along with the starter RELAY behind the DIC panel ( drivers info center )

Search my older posts on VATS


Vig~

 

[RV Guy]

Thanks for all of the info. I have a spare key and the pellet is a different shape (longer). I'm going to switch to this key and see if I have the problem.

Thanks again.

Ron

 

[Karl Snedeger]

vats

This weekend I replaced the lock cylinder and VATS module on a 86. Total cost was $180. for parts including the new key. I do get get a stiff discount from my parts guy at the Chevy dealer here in Vegas though. What I can't figure out is the courtesy lights won't go off now. Anyone got any ideas? I've checked a;; the switches at the doors, back hatch and even the headlight switch. Haven't got a clue.

 

[vinnie87]

Don't know if this is going to help you now, but. Chevy Serice Bullitin 87-140, INTERMITTENT NO START CONDITION CAUSED BY ANTI THEFT SYS & KEY: - inproved ign lock cylinder with narrower deyway and improv longer ign key available from GMSPO PN: 26008775 - ALL 86-87 CORVETTE MODELS

 

[Moonunit 451]

I had the same problem. VATS. For about three dollars, some not to difficult labor, and a lot of help from members on this forum (Thanks Vig, SpanishVets et al) I was back on the road reliably ina few days. In my case it was the cylinder and not the key. This wa s a more difficult fix than I was willing to tackle.

Many do not like the bypass due to the comprimise in security. There are alarm systems that can be installed for about what it would cost to replace the VATS components. They also might afford you some additional benefits.

I have all the info on the VATS bypass if you're intersested. It's bookmarked in my crashed laptop which I shouold be getting back today or tomorrow. Hope I didn't lose all that stuff when My HD took a major crap

This was my first posting on the forum as well and the folks here walked me through the whole thing and were very patient with me. Good luck, and welcome to

 

[handstjg]

I had a similar problem today. After lunch my 86 wouldn't turn over, nothing, nada. The boss lady took me home to get the other set of keys and jumper cables. The other set worked just fine. When I left work to go home the old key worked just fine. I did notice the voltmeter started out at 14.1 volts but as I got closer to home it only registered 11.2 volts. Now I am wondering if I don't have an alternator problem. Any help would be appreciated.

 

[B17Crew]

handstjg,

Maybe you should consider having a load test done on your alternator.

The ‘86 I had left me stranded on my way to a wedding on one of the hottest summer days I can remember! The suit I was wearing didn’t help me keep a cool head either.

I was driving on the highway and I noticed my volts steadily dropping. I killed the AC and the radio and turned her around because I knew something was wrong. Didn’t make it home, I was about 50 miles out.

Turned out to be the alternator. The tech had noticed the low mileage and let me know that it was the lack of use that sent the alternator to its grave. He said that the early alternators were prone to failure on low use cars because they are worked hard when they are fired up. A regularly used car would not have had the alternator go at 19,000 miles. At some point, the alternators were “beefed up”, not sure what year though.

It was a long while since this happened so I don’t recall exactly what he said, but I think he mentioned brushes and or bearings failing.

B17Crew