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88 #57 Recipe for power

Frank, how about a rundown on how to adjust the boost through wastegate adjustments.;shrug


Details on how to fine tune each side for balance and what else you did to get the numbers.

Awesome thread :beer

Shouldn't be a problem. It may take awhile to put something together though. I'm off vacation now and man 'o man this is going to be a busy year!

FS
 
:w nice thread,

I love techtalk but it needs more action Video and pictures for me to understand the blabla ;)


btw what is the conversion rate of Hg to PSI ?

I was already impressed of myself I could calculate PSI --> Bar and vice versa.
 
From the CTTC owners manual circa '87:

"The Turbo Boost Gauge The boost gauge used in the Twin Turbo Corvette is, calibrated in inches of mercury absolute, In effect, the boost gauge reads as a traditional mercury barometer. For example, with the car off, it will read ambient atmospheric pressure, or about 30". At idle it will show about 12-15 inches and at full boost about 50". The gauge is, mounted in the farthest Left-hand air conditioning vent in the center console."

So, in full boost minus atmospheric pressure roughly 30 inches, then every 2 inches (Hg) = 1 pound of pressure (PSI). So, 30Hg would be 0 psi or very close due to atmospheric changes. 40 inches would be roughly 5 psi.

50Hg = 10 psi
52Hg = 11 psi
54Hg = 12 psi
56Hg = 13 psi
60Hg = 15 psi (actually just under 15psi but close enough)

These are not exact correlations but very close, again atmospheric conditions and altitude will have an impact on what the gauge will read and equate to boost. For example: if you were to drive your CTTC at 12,000 feet ( I realize unrealistic ) 10 psi would register as 43-45Hg.

So, my 58Hg here in Texas is not the same as someone who drives in Denver and their gauge reads 58Hg do to altitude and atmospheric difference.

Hope this helps
 
Thanks Frank,

COOL , or should I say HOT.

I know this explanation under the calling of : heat soak.
when air is getting warmer it contains less oxygen.

An water-->air intercooler would fool your Hg gauge under which conditions you are driving.

I love the Turbocharger technique ,
and what a wonderfull job Reeves Callaway has anyway :)
 
It's my belief that if your car still has the MicroFueler, "MF'r" you are not only stressing your engine but leaving power on the table. I came to this conclusion after testing 3 MF'r from 3 different years with the same results. I can also claim that I have close to 45 dyno pulls trying to correct the MF'r before I decided to go to another AIC, Aux Injector Controller, unit.

As you can see with this dyno chart, my AF is all over the place and it's not only hurting power but notice how the HP and TQ is up and down, that's stress on the motor as it's trying to accomodate what the MF'r doing.

Thanks for posting this dyno sheet. I think it confirms my suspicions about fueling under boost. You can see the GM setup does a pretty good job until it becomes saturated at 25-2600 rpm. And, the healthy gain you got by switching to a different auxilary fuel controller. I'll be messing around with an ECM swap that will allow fuel & spark control under boost, and I'll be curious how that compares. :beer
 
Thanks for posting this dyno sheet. I think it confirms my suspicions about fueling under boost. You can see the GM setup does a pretty good job until it becomes saturated at 25-2600 rpm. And, the healthy gain you got by switching to a different auxiliary fuel controller. I'll be messing around with an ECM swap that will allow fuel & spark control under boost, and I'll be curious how that compares. :beer

You're very welcome! I'm happy to hear that this thread is helping a couple of Callaway owners.

This applies to 1988CALLAWAY as well.

The absolute coolest part of this AIC controller is that once it's set, it's pretty much set for good! What do I mean by this? After replaced the MF'r with the new AIC controller I was running 12psi of boost. When I decided to turn up the boost to 15psi and bump the timing, the AIC automatically added the needed fuel to compensate for the changes in timing and boost! I verified this while on the dyno. Everytime I made a change, the AIC unit also accounted for that change and added or removed fuel accordingly.

I called the company that makes the AIC controller today and explained what I was seeing on the dyno about the AIC unit automatically adding fuel and they confirmed that's how this product is suppose to work.

Think about boost spikes or boost creep already being addressed by the AIC unit. Or, let's say I want to turn the boost back to 10PSI, I will not have to go back to the dyno and readjust the A/F again! The AIC unit will take care of it for me : )
 
Frank, Anyway you can list manufacturer ( and part number ) of new AIC controller?? Also any tips on install that may not be realised until too late:)

Best, Cliff ( once again appreciate all the details you have been giving )
 
Frank, Anyway you can list manufacturer ( and part number ) of new AIC controller?? Also any tips on install that may not be realised until too late:)

Best, Cliff ( once again appreciate all the details you have been giving )

You bet:

Here's the direct link to the EIC-2L product. The injector bosses are NOT needed.
http://sdsefi.com/eic.html

Just under $400

The company is called RACETECH Inc in Canada
Ph 403-274-0154
www.sdefi.com
 
Frank, that's the spirit of the Callaway Forum :cool Thanks for your continued participation! :m

No worries, but that's going to slow way down starting tomorrow... 2008 begins for me tomorrow and I'm slammed with work already (that's a good thing)

MF'r = MicroFueler, right ;) ;LOL

Well after 45+ dyno pulls and getting nowhere with the "MicroFueler" I started calling it a new name which I now simply abbreviate to keep this board PG-13:D

To me MF'r = MuthaF@*k'r, but I would never say that out loud :upthumbs
 
Also any tips on install that may not be realised until too late:)
Best, Cliff ( once again appreciate all the details you have been giving )

Sorry, missed this the first go around.

The install is straight forward. There's a power wire, Tach wire, 2 grounds, vacuum line and injector connectors. I simply left the existing MF'r wiring harness in place but disconnected from the MF'r and tapped into it's existing power wire, tapped into the existing tach wire, attached the two grounds so many inches apart per installation instructions and used a fish tape to pull the new injector wires thru the firewall. I also used the same vacuum line that runs into he MF'r and used that vacuum source for the new AIC unit.

I routed the injector wires the same way Callaway Cars did to the injectors in the ram horns. I left the old injector harness in place and zipped tied it out of the way for originality reasons.

I mounted the unit under the dash where it's out of site but yet still reachable for tuning reasons. Knowing what I know now about this unit and how it adjusts fuel automatically, I would simply index the knob position after you dyno tune with a sharpe just in case the knob is moved and tuck it under the dash in the same location the old MF'r was.

Hope this helps. If you need additional pics let me know.

FS
 

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