88 cutting out while driving (intermittent)

[badabing9]

Yes, the distributor has to be removed. Once you get it out, the roll pin in the drive gear has to be driven out with a punch. The shaft slides out of the distributor body and then you can unscrew the screws that hold the coil and replace it.

damn!.....ya just killed the rest of the week for me! is the pin easily driven out? any tricks in getting the distributor out as it looks pretty tight back there to lift it out!......thanks!

 

[badabing9]

I was having the exact problem with my '86 and it was also "throwing a code BUT when I tried to get the code it would'nt flash for me. What it ended up being was the ECM "computer" had a few cold solder joints and I had to replace the computer.

humn........when i run codes, or at least the time before this one, it lists quite a few things but, as i read it (with an auto x-ray 6000), the initial stalling failure is causing the other codes to be stored. sorta like a domino effect....

i may investigate that as a last resort. anyone in the forum that coould burn an identical prom for me just in case it is the prom?.......thanks.....

 

[wishuwerehere82]

Well, at least there's only 2 1/2 days left.
The roll pin can be removed with a drift punch and a hammer, with the distributor shaft gear supported by a block of wood.
It's a 30 second job.
Getting the distributor out is pretty easy once you remove the plate on the rear of the intake manifold, the cap and wires. Getting the bolt out that holds the distributor down is the hardest part.
Make sure you crank the engine to Top dead center, and note the position of the rotor(pointed at #1 plug wire) when you take it out.

 

[badabing9]

Well, at least there's only 2 1/2 days left.
The roll pin can be removed with a drift punch and a hammer, with the distributor shaft gear supported by a block of wood.
It's a 30 second job.
Getting the distributor out is pretty easy once you remove the plate on the rear of the intake manifold, the cap and wires. Getting the bolt out that holds the distributor down is the hardest part.
Make sure you crank the engine to Top dead center, and note the position of the rotor(pointed at #1 plug wire) when you take it out.

thanks........do i have to mark the position of the gear on the shaft?......

 

[wishuwerehere82]

No, it only goes on one way, there's a flat spot. Keep track of which end is up though.

 

[G Winter]

The dist shaft turns as you pull it out so also note the position of the rotor after you get the dist pulled up far enough to dissingage the gear from the cam gear. This helps you with a starting spot when replacing the dist.

 

[badabing9]

The dist shaft turns as you pull it out so also note the position of the rotor after you get the dist pulled up far enough to dissingage the gear from the cam gear. This helps you with a starting spot when replacing the dist.

yes sir, i am aware it "rotates" both on installation and removal. thannks again.it would be easier if the parts wa just plain "shot" however, it is most likely thermally intermittant or at least i hope that is it and this is the part!

 

[badabing9]

No, it only goes on one way, there's a flat spot. Keep track of which end is up though.

thanks, i was not aware that there was a flat spot on the shaft. i thought that it was only held in place by the roll pin. i have another brand new chevy distributor here that was purchased for a 350 so, maybe if i get in trouble, i could drop that in.

 

[wishuwerehere82]

Why don't you try the new one and save the expense of the coil?

 

[badabing9]

Why don't you try the new one and save the expense of the coil?

is not there a difference of the "pitch" or degree of the spiraled gear at the base that slides into the engine?......besides, the pick up coil is only about $18.......

 

[G Winter]

is not there a difference of the "pitch" or degree of the spiraled gear at the base that slides into the engine?......besides, the pick up coil is only about $18.......

I believe all chevy small blocks have the same cam-dist. gears . The only real issue is whether the module and the connections are compatible .

 

[badabing9]

greetings,

well, i removed the distributor yesterday and changed out the pick up coil. a little hard getting the roll pin out but, do-able. i will ride it around for the next few days to see if it will cut out again. could the tps cause the car to literally "shut off" (not stumble) if it were bad or intermittant?......thanks all.

 

[wishuwerehere82]

The TPS can be measured with an Ohm meter. Read between the center terminal and either of the two outside terminals.
On one side the resistance will be high and on the other it will be low. When you open the throttle, the resistance will go up on one side and down on the other. If there are any skips or jumps in the resistance, then there is a bad spot on the TPS.
If the TPS causes the car to die when driving, it should throw an error code onto the computer as TPS Voltage High or TPS Voltage Low.

 

[Hib Halverson]

If you tap on the module and that causes a misfire or a shut down, you can bet that the module has a problem, probably a cracked circuit board or a loose connection.

That you've already replaced this module once then had the same problem again indicates that either (very slim chance) the new module had the same problem as the old one or (more likely) the connector to the module might have a problem such as high resistance due to corrosion, broken pins, loose pins, faulty crimp to the wire, etc.

I'd verify there's not problem with that module, its wores or connections before I'd go looking at the ign. module in the distributor.

 

[badabing9]

The TPS can be measured with an Ohm meter. Read between the center terminal and either of the two outside terminals.
On one side the resistance will be high and on the other it will be low. When you open the throttle, the resistance will go up on one side and down on the other. If there are any skips or jumps in the resistance, then there is a bad spot on the TPS.
If the TPS causes the car to die when driving, it should throw an error code onto the computer as TPS Voltage High or TPS Voltage Low.

greetings,
so far, the car has not intermitantly died on me but, since it is so infrequent, it may take some time. i have reset my tps just slightly above "specs" (.54). i have scanned my car with an auto x-ray scanner before and after clearing the codes and it still says "tps voltage too low" , however, the voltage is correct (as above) as measured across the top 2 wires. the ses light has only come on when the car dies momentarily and still, despite the aut x-ray reading, is not on. again, no displayed ses light.

i will manually check code with paperclip tomorrow. i measured the resistance of the tps and it appears to be smooth all the way through it's travel.........will advise.

 

[badabing9]

If you tap on the module and that causes a misfire or a shut down, you can bet that the module has a problem, probably a cracked circuit board or a loose connection.

That you've already replaced this module once then had the same problem again indicates that either (very slim chance) the new module had the same problem as the old one or (more likely) the connector to the module might have a problem such as high resistance due to corrosion, broken pins, loose pins, faulty crimp to the wire, etc.

I'd verify there's not problem with that module, its wores or connections before I'd go looking at the ign. module in the distributor.

greetings,
as i had stated at the beginning part of this thread, it was the electronic spark control sensor that i tapped on and the car died. that has been replaced 2x's already and appears not the initial problem as the car has died since then. i have checked the connections and they are fine all the way (no corrosion, bent pins, dirt, etc). after verifying the connections, i have already replaced the ignition pick up coil and ignition module in the distributor yesterday and am waiting to see if that is the cure all for the problem.

 

[badabing9]

opps!,

thought i should enter a follow-up on this. it turned out that, after repalcing the distributor pick up coil (distributor removal and disassembly required), my car has not died. so, aparently, that was the culprit. thank you all for your input!

 

[BlackNBlue95]

If I am thinking correctly here, the ign. module is in the distributor, so are you tapping on the distributor? Maybe you have an pickup coil failing. The pickup coil provides the RPM signal to the ECM without an RPM signal the car will not run. If the signal is dropping out intermittently perhaps this is causing a stumble or dieing condition. this is just a guess as I am sure there are a million things that can cause this problem.
-=Rick

Wow, I was actually dead on?
LoL

 

[wishuwerehere82]

opps!,

thought i should enter a follow-up on this. it turned out that, after repalcing the distributor pick up coil (distributor removal and disassembly required), my car has not died. so, aparently, that was the culprit. thank you all for your input!

Glad to hear it!

 

[joatrash]

Resurrecting this thread since I'm experiencing what seems to be an identical problem. (Hope y'all are still listening, haha.)

Twice now, soon after starting up, (a couple weeks apart), my ´88 has been experiencing very short, very slight losses of power (electrical), causing all lights to slightly wink out and the stereo to "pop". Also, the SES-light will start to light up but goes out as the power comes back. After this happens a few times, the car has completely shut down instantly... no stumbles... just complete instant death as if someone just cut all the electricity. However, she's started up again right away.

Have not yet had the opportunity to check the codes.

I've recently changed the Stereo to a DVD-player. The previous owner had not removed the original Bose amps despite installing an aftermarket cassette deck, (which I didn't know about) so I was kinda wondering if the new DVD player together with the Bose amps might be causing some kind of power drain or overloading the system. For some reason it kinda seems like the stereo has something to do with it... call it a gut feeling. Currenty in the process of removing the Bose amps anyway, but thought I'd bring this thread back from the netherworld anyway to see if I'm completely crazy for thinking it might have some connection to the problem.

Cheers!
/Joe
Sweden