89 Clutch Slave Cylinder HELP

[89blackvette]

I am replacing the clutch slave cylinder due to leak around the front of it. I got the old one off with a lot of foul language and a mashed finger. The new one that I have is the cast replacement and it seems it will not fit. The boss that the hydraulic line fits into hits the transmission where the cags solonoid is located. For having just 2 nuts and a fluid line this thing is a real pain in the butt to replace. Could someone give me a step by step in depth procedure to get this darn thing back in the hole and bleeding it. The bleeder is jamed against the body (with the old one). I am of course working on a concrete floor with jacks and jack stands, I am 68 and it is just whipping my butt. I am a reasonably good mechanic and do not like prying an hammering on stuff to get it in. Sorry for the length of this post but I am frustrated and taking it out here. I will have to take a pain pill tonight to ease the pulled muscle in my shoulder from pushing and pulling the dad gum thing.Thanks for your help.

 

[G Winter]

You need to bleed it before you mount it . Have to hold it at a 45 deg angle so the air can get out.
Also the FSM says to break off the bleeder when done.
I left mine , right conditions it rubs a little.
Don't remember mine being that close to trans other than while your putting the pin into the bell housing.
Think what I did was put the pin in the bell housing then bled it.Might even have had to put the line on after it was in the hole. Been a couple yrs.
One other thing, I filled the slave with fluid before I went under the car with it. Remove bleader and pour into line side.Replace the plastic shipping cap part way until you connect the line.

Glenn

 

[89blackvette]

Thanks I will try it again tonight. Perhaps I am trying to put it in wrong. Did you go above or below the cags solonoid to slide it into place? Thanks again for the help.

 

[G Winter]

I was trying to remember that when I posted but not sure. Heal and to trick comes to mind.Back it in over and then in.


Funny thing , this summer I had to take the clutch out but don't remember how I put the slave back in... I do know I didn't have the line unhooked this time, cause I didn't have to bleed it.

Glenn

 

[Rex S]

Much easier job with the exhaust out of the way. But that depends on how rusty the studs are.

 

[G Winter]

Much easier job with the exhaust out of the way. But that depends on how rusty the studs are.

Bingo! that is why I don't remember putting it back on when I had the clutch out... exhaust was off.

I did replace the slave with exhaust in place though. But that was two summers ago. Long time to remember when your ancient.

Glenn

 

[89blackvette]

Got that turkey in tonight. My car is also a convertable with X brace that is in the a little. Here is procedure. Fill the cylinder with fluid be certain it is FULL then put bleeder off ald cylinder on it in it's normal position put the bleeder from th new cylinder in the master cylinder connection and tighten it hand tight to keep from spilling fluid while you take it under the car. Remove the two studs that hold the cylinder (unless you did that to get old one out). Pull master cylinder line down some (it is part rubber and will move around for you) connect to the cylinder. Tip the cylinder so bleeder and line are up and bleed the system. Push the cylinder above and behind the cags solonoid, work the plunger into the hole. Work the cylinder forward (you can use a screw driver or two) by prying aganst cags solonoid. It will require some work to get it in place. Put a slightly smaller bolt through the top hole into bell housing to hold it in place. Insert the bottom stud and use it and nut to pull cylinder into place. Work the top stud in to place and screw it in place top nut on and tighten it down. Go back to bottom nut and loosen so you can bottom out the stud then tighten it. Double check master cylinder line for tightness and you are done. You will need some Torx sockets to remove and install the studs. Let front of the car down leaving rear elevated ( this will tilt the new cylinder so any air is at the master cylinder line) get someone to watch the clutch master cylinder while you pump the clutch pedal (tell them to tell you if there any bubbles). Pump several times and hold it to the floor. With rear elevated it is self bleeding and you can get those few small bubbles out. Start car (with parking brake fully on) Press the clutch and see if she goes into gear. Release parking brake and take it for a short spin. Go home take a shower, open a cold one and relax.

PS If you ever have the transmission out replace that bugger then.

 

[sstearns2]

After an hour of trying to get it on I ended up just cutting a notch to one of the holes on the slave clyinder. That way I could slide it onto one stud and then rotate it on to the other.

Scott

 

[helphos]

leaky clutch

Can you see the fluid dripping on th e ground when you have the leak? A friend of mine has a leak in his hydraulics and can't see the leak.
What percent of the time is the slave cylinder at fault?

 

[G Winter]

The clutch master can leak to the inside of the car. The slave would most likely leak to the inside of the bell housing.

Glenn

 

[helphos]

Master or Slave - where's the leak?

Thanks. There's no leak inside the car at the firewall, and nothing observable in the engine compartment, soooooooo, must be the slave.
Thanks!